New front clearance requirements?

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Sprinter

Minister of Fire
Jul 1, 2012
2,984
SW Washington
I just read this:
(Note, the newest NFPA 211 standard has increased the required minimum clearance in front of loading doors to 18 inches from 16 inches previously. Even if you are installing an older stove which says 16” on the label or manual, you should build to the required newer standard of 18”.)
in a Hearth.com article. This is the first I've seen this. All the stoves that I've been researching so far spec 16" in the US (18" in Canada). So what happens if I buy a new stove now, get it installed as per published requirements (all the dealers I've talked to also go by 16" specs)? How new is this? Does it only apply to stoves made after a certain date? etc.
 
My FPX 36 specs say 20" if the hearth is not elevated. 18" if it is elevated.
 
Like most code, I suspect it would be grandfathered. Typically, you must meet the code as it is written on the date of construction. There is no requirement to predict what the code might be some day in the future. Very few changes in code require updating existing construction, until such a date that you make changes to that construction, at which time it must be updated to meet the code as of that date.
 
Been in place a couple of years. With the heat re-burn non-cats toss out and down from the glass 18" is a good idea. With the 30-NC two feet is a good idea.

The floor in front of these suckers gets hot.
 
Okay, It just sounded like something brand new that will immediately affect new stoves at least, and maybe anything even sold after a certain date or something. Frankly, I've sort of thought that 16" was a bit close for some stoves for ember protection, the way some people complain about logs rolling out and sparks flying around, but what do I know? I imagine it will be required soon, as Canada already does.

BTW, the last time I had a wood stove was in the 80's with an Earth stove. It opened from the top down and required two handles to open. That seemed pretty safe to me and I don't recall ever being worried about stuff falling out or embers popping. I haven't come across any new stoves that do that and it sure seems like it would be a lot safer. Maybe there's a good reason for it?
 
There is no harm and a lot of benefit to making the hearth bigger than the minimum spec for the stove. I'm glad ours is oversized. It made it easy to accommodate the T6 after the F400.
 
27 years and never put a burn in that tired old carpet. Two years ago I see a burned through hole in it. Don't know when or how it happened. Glad it just burned the hole and went out.
 
Like most code, I suspect it would be grandfathered. Typically, you must meet the code as it is written on the date of construction. There is no requirement to predict what the code might be some day in the future. Very few changes in code require updating existing construction, until such a date that you make changes to that construction, at which time it must be updated to meet the code as of that date.

Everthing you say about code is true, so far as I know...but NFPA 211 is not a code. It's a standard published by an industry group. It's not a government publication. NFPA doesn't publish "requirements", it doesn't have that authority. It's a set of recommendations. Big difference...code is law, NFPA is not law. Some local government jurisdictions have adopted NFPA 211 recommendations basically word for word in their codes...which are local law. Other jurisdictions have not. It's always best to check with the local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) for the straight skinny on what's required where you live. In most cases that I've known of, the inspectors will simply want to see that the installation conforms with the manufacturer's stated clearances and hearth requirements as set out in the owner/installation manual for the appliance. Rick
 
. Some local government jurisdictions have adopted NFPA 211 recommendations basically word for word in their codes...which are local law. Other jurisdictions have not.
And that causes a lot of confusion, because, although NFPA doesn't directly write law, their recommendations often end up that way de facto. Even NFPA calls them "consensus codes". Back when I was a volunteer firefighter, all the local fire districts trained by NFPA, equipped by NFPA, reported by NFPA, everything was by NFPA. The state pretty much required that of districts and it provided a lot of standardization. Of course, some very poor districts can't afford some of the more expensive standards, so there is flexibility to accommodate those situations.

Regardless of their unofficial status, NFPA sure ends up writing a lot of codes ;) (and they're good at it)
 
(Note, the newest NFPA 211 standard has increased the required minimum clearance in front of loading doors to 18 inches from 16 inches previously. Even if you are installing an older stove which says 16” on the label or manual, you should build to the required newer standard of 18”.)

NFPA 211 also calls for 36" rear clearance to combustible walls. Let's plug that standard into the above quote and have a look:

Note, the NFPA 211 standard requires a minimum rear clearance of 36 inches to combustible walls. Even if you are installing a stove which has a reduced rear clearance on the label or manual, you should comply with the required NFPA 211 standard of 36”.
The fact is, the NFPA 211 standards are only applied to unlisted stoves. Once a particular model has been tested and listed by a UL-accredited test laboratory, the installation requirements set forth in the listing report, which appear on the listing label and in the installation manual, supercede the NFPA's blanket standards.​

I know of several models which have been introduced after the NFPA standard was changed, including Hearthstone's new Manchester wood stove, introduced just last week, and every one of them were listed with reduced rear clearances and a 16" hearth extension.

Sprinter, if it makes you more comfortable to disregard your new stove's UL listing requirements and install to the NFPA 211 standards, go right ahead. But from a code-compliance standpoint, unless you're installing an unlisted stove, the statement "you should build to the required newer standard of 18 inches" is incorrect.
 
Just checked in to read the spirited discussion sparked by my post above. Nothing to view yet, but since I'm here anyway, let's kick this dog one more time:

Consider SouthernBreeze's FPX 36, which has a listed flat hearth extension requirement of 20 inches. Does anyone think he should disregard that listing and provide an 18" flat extension, citing the NFPA 211 blanket standard?
 
The fact is, the NFPA 211 standards are only applied to unlisted stoves. Once a particular model has been tested and listed by a UL-accredited test laboratory, the installation requirements set forth in the listing report, which appear on the listing label and in the installation manual, supercede the NFPA's blanket standards.​
That's interesting. I was wondering how NFPA and UL each come into the equation. Makes sense since NFPA's standards seem to be a lot more conservative than what most stoves end up with.
 
I thought that the manufacturer's tested clearances are the final word. They are the one's with the final liability, not NFPA. For example, if the mfg doesn't allow an NFPA wall shield clearance reduction, it is not permitted.
 
The manufacturer's instructions for the appliance are gospel...if you've got those, then forget NFPA, it's just confusing you. Rick
 
The manufacturer's instructions for the appliance are gospel...if you've got those, then forget NFPA, it's just confusing you. Rick
Are those the results of UL testing? Still trying to make sense of all this.
 
The roles of NFPA standards and UL standards in the installation of a wood stove can be somewhat confusing, beginning with the fact that William Henry Merrill, founder of Underwriters Laboratories, was a past-president of the NFPA. NFPA standards are generic, and are designed to ensure minimum safety guidelines for the installation of virtually any solid fuel appliance. The UL listing process is designed to establish accurate, specific requirements for each model tested.

It should be noted that UL doesn't test wood stoves. Their role is to establish safety and testing standards and certify the labs that perform the actual testing. So, when a stove is said to be "UL listed," it means it has undergone testing to ensure compliance with UL's standards at a UL-certified test laboratory. In the US, Warnock Hersey and Omni Labs are the two big UL certified wood stove testing facilities.

During the testing process, the laboratory establishes the specific installation requirements (clearance to combustibles, floor protection, etc.) for a given model. This set of requirements appears in the manufacturer's installation manual and on the permanent listing label attached to each "UL listed" stove, authenticated by the UL logo and the name of the testing laboratory. These are the rules that must be followed when installing the stove.

The generic NFPA 211 guidelines are still in use, as they apply to models that haven't been tested to UL standards, such as antique or homemade stoves. Nonetheless, whenever a stove's UL listing differs from NFPA guidelines, you go with the listing.
 
As far as grandfathering or protecting yourself against any potential change in regulations. Get a permit! A permitted and approved installation sets a datestamp on your install which is the only accepted means of grandfathering plus it shifts liability away from you should there be a housefire.

I install per the sticker, as long as it says 16" then that's the requirement. I am also one of those guys that built his hearth to 16" and wish I had built to 18" only because I could sure use those extra couple of inches today while trying to fit various replacement stoves on my hearth.
 
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