Jotul F600 baffle plates cracked/warped

Should this be a matter of concern?

Also, can anyone tell me what is the proper orientation of these puppies? (Diagram/line drawing in the manual is useless)

(I tried opening the lid; can't seem to get the front bolt off, so I just slid them down ant out the front))

paredown said:

Should this be a matter of concern?

Also, can anyone tell me what is the proper orientation of these puppies? (Diagram/line drawing in the manual is useless)

(I tried opening the lid; can't seem to get the front bolt off, so I just slid them down ant out the front))

Click to expand...

Got the lid off--oddly the full top is missing one bolt, and the front one had a mashed up washer, so that's why it was stuck....

Pics to come...

The plates are both warped and distorted so that they don't actually meet in the middle and sit flat between the manifolds. (I'm assuming that they sit ridge side down, and the tabs are supposed to interlock?)

Thanks, BeGreen. I thought I saw a date on a casting of 2003--but I don't know the date. This is that famous "free" stove from a couple of years ago--that apparently I really had no idea how to check when I put it into service.

I noticed last year that my burns last year seemed less efficient, so I decided to give it a good cleaning and check out before firing it up this year--glad I did.

So Jotul parts can only be purchased from Jotul dealers, I gather?

Thanks all--stopped at the closest dealer yesterday--$60 each (and he thinks he has them in stock if they can find them). I thought I would just match the bolt at the local hardware store (I think it is an M6 cap screw with a plain steel washer).
I'm hoping they do have them in stock--we're freezing. We went from 90s to 70s overnight it seems and we are down into the 40s at night--it feels pretty cold.

Dealer found the baffles--they had been special ordered for someone who never picked them up. Win-win--I ended up not having to pay freight.

So I replaced the gaskets on the ash tray and side door, did some furnace cement patching where I could see that it had cracked away (mainly top corners, but also on the edges of the manifolds. Cleaned the glass (took it out so I could really spray and let them sit flat--then rinse and dry).

Lowes had an M6 cap screw that was about the right length, although it did not have the shoulder, so I did small washer +big washer that worked out about roughly the same as was there. I ended up putting in 2 new bolts (the one that was hard to take out was actually bent--could the PO have overheated the stove that much?). Also sprayed some stove paint where there was rust under the center plate, glued down the gasket on the center plate and top plate.

Assembly was top plate first--you can easily reach the four bolts from the center hole. Then the center plate (two bolts easily reached from below). Slid one baffle up from below, sneaked the thermal blanket in on the open side rolled up in the proper orientation. Then second baffle up into place--you have to lift them in the center so that the cutout tabs can engage, carefully lower them down. They fit beautifully. Then carefully unroll the thermal blanket in place. Glass is easy--but the usual precaution applies--tighten in a pattern and don't go crazy.

Because I am not a patient man, I had to light a fire.

What a difference

Apparently properly fitting baffles are essential for this stove to work how it was designed to work!