Shoulder Season Draft Problems

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We know it works, what would improve it? Safety issues I did not think of?

  • It is a death trap and we are all going to die

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Looks good, safe enough I think

    Votes: 2 100.0%
  • Boy, you are in a heap of trouble with the fire department, building inspector, and EPA.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    2
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Milton Findley

Feeling the Heat
Oct 26, 2010
313
Whitefish Bay, WI
I have a short (read minimum height), triple walled chimney chase with a six inch insulated liner installed within it. The flue makes a nice 90 degree bend into a clean out tee at the bottom. The draft is sluggish, (or even reversed), unless the temperature differential is fairly high, or there is a breeze blowing, or the chimney is warmed.

I also have a nice wood stove which would be useful some chilly mornings, if I could light it without filling the house with smoke. So, clearly, I need a taller chimney but that would be a pain because nobody makes chimneys like the one I have the liner running through any more. Besides, that might not do a thing for me, as then I would have to warm up even more air to get it to draw.

So, I could spend 300 bucks and put one of those draft inducing fans in for use during spring and fall, or I could just use the gas furnace, or I could just choke until it got going, or I could redo the entire chimney for a whole lot of money. Or, I could try something else.

I used to buy those expensive little cans of air to blow the fly ash out of my electronics, but decided to buy an air compressor for those odd jobs around the house, like filling all 14 tires around here. And it is great for blowing the ashes out of the electronics and chasing the dog around too. I wondered if I could force a little air up the chimney with it as well. I bought 4 feet of quarter inch copper tubing, a compression fitting and a cap for the exposed end, and then removed the cap at the bottom of the clean out tee. I drilled a quarter inch hole in the bottom of the cap, forced about a foot of the copper tubing through it, bent the tubing 90 degrees, and secured it to the cap with a copper pipe clamp. I then ran the tubing out of the old fireplace to where it could be reached. As installed, there is a quarter inch pipe aimed more or less straight up the chimney, with the nozzle end a little more than half way up the tee.

Getting my trusty air hose, I opened the stove door and blew air up the pipe. It does come into the stove with the door open. I then put crunched up newspaper in the stove, and lit it. It started burning, ran out of air, and started smoking as usual. I put the air hose in the end of the compression fitting and blew two seconds worth of compressed air up the pipe.

It worked very well to get the air going the right way up the pipe, and the pipe continued to warm up as the paper burned away.

Knowing the inhabitants of this forum from previous experience, and how picky they are, as well as knowledgeable about many things, I must now put in the disclaimers:

Disclaimers:

For the inhabitants of California, the brass compression fitting contains lead, known to cause cancer in California.

No, the installation is not to code, I checked, and there ain't any thing about copper pipes blowing air up a chimney. When there is, I will apply the code.

I am not afraid the copper will melt, or clog with soot, or do anything bad. There are two different metals in contact in an acid environment, and eventually, there will be corrosion. One of the metals is 316L, the other one is copper. Given my age and life expectancy, I do not need to concern myself.

I am not going to lug a heavy compressor around. I will use the little tank I use for tires for the two seconds of air I need. Failing that, I will get my wife to do the heavy lifting.

There is no air leakage. The quarter inch copper pipe fits very snugly into the quarter inch hole. The other end is capped.

I am not going to blow embers up the chimney to excite the neighbors, or set fire to the snow. The chimney works just fine when there are embers.

What do ya'll think?
 
I have been very fortunate compared to others. I have a great draft, 28' flue run with two 90's and a prevailing wind that is usually working to help me out. I can probably count on one hand the number of cold starts that I had to do some work to get the flue warm.

As far as the vote is concerned, none of the responses applied to me :)
 
Have you confirmed that you will not be disturbing the coriolis effect with the quantum result of toilets swirling backward in the house? Better check that out Milt. Gotta cover all bases ya know.
 
Sounds like it should work. A simple solution would be to simply heat the chimney. You can do that with paper but depending upon how cold and how much downdraft you have, it can take a bit of experimenting. A more simple solution would be to light a half of a super cedar with it laying in the flue. That should warm the chimney enough to create some draft.
 
Sounds like it should work. A simple solution would be to simply heat the chimney. You can do that with paper but depending upon how cold and how much downdraft you have, it can take a bit of experimenting. A more simple solution would be to light a half of a super cedar with it laying in the flue. That should warm the chimney enough to create some draft.

I wish that worked for me, but the flue is not that accessible. I actually get a back draft, probably because this is a two story house, and the peak of the attic is higher than the chimney and vented up there. I am going to do some weather stripping with the attic door, so it might cease, but the attic is the warmest part of the house most of the time even though it is thoroughly vented.

Three sheets of flaming newpaper fixes the backdraft, except when the smoke is venting back through the intake ports.
 
Back before I added a bit to my chimney I would use a hot air dryer (yeah, the wife wasn't too happy when she saw what I was doing with her hair dryer). Just point it up the chimney from inside the stove and run it on hot for about a minute or two. Forced good hot air up there and got it going right quick. No flaming paper, no smoke, just hot air pushing up the chimney and warming the pipe.

In the end I'm happier that I got the chimney (3' added was all it took) fixed up, but that was a good solution as it really fixed the reverse draft (cold air headed down) problem. Any sort of burning when cold air headed down the chimney was a bit of a waste for me as the hot air from the burning just was pushed out of the stove....
 
I wish that worked for me, but the flue is not that accessible. I actually get a back draft, probably because this is a two story house, and the peak of the attic is higher than the chimney and vented up there. I am going to do some weather stripping with the attic door, so it might cease, but the attic is the warmest part of the house most of the time even though it is thoroughly vented.

Three sheets of flaming newpaper fixes the backdraft, except when the smoke is venting back through the intake ports.

Definitely seal off the attic. Otherwise the air venting out of the attic is creating a suction in the rooms below creating a negative pressure zone there.
 
I'm running a 24 foot chimney so draft is not a problem...but if you are burning in mild weather, there is not a huge temp differential, so naturally draft is not as good as when it's 20 degrees outside. That said, if you get the stove extremely hot, I have zero drafting issues even during milder weather.
 
Top down burn? Heats the flue with a hot kindling fire on top, and does not produce any smoke... ever tried it?
 
Even with my short 12 foot chimney i have no problems but i do with bad wood.
 
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Remember to turn off any negative draft producers such as range hoods vented outside ,clothes dryers ect. Open a window or door in the stove room to let some outside air in.
 
Top down burn? Heats the flue with a hot kindling fire on top, and does not produce any smoke... ever tried it?

As much as I'm a proponent of top-down fires, having actually experienced cold air flowing down the chimney on a couple occasions I can attest to the fact that it can be hard to reverse such a flow. You have to get the heat UP that chimney and if air is flowing down (even really slow) the smoke/heat from even a top-down fire isn't going to happily flow up and fix the problem in a hurry and you will get smoke/fumes in the house.

A really clean burning fire (candle or SuperCedar) by itself for a bit may do the trick given some time, but again - the last thing you want is fumes of any kind pushing out of the stove into the room. That is why I found the electric heat of the hair dryer to be preferable to get it going - it blows up the chimney forcing the heat in the right direction while at the same time as providing the heat to warm the chimney walls.

Clearly in the long run solving the real problem (more chimney height in my case) is the best thing really but that may take a bit of time to figure out especially if this only an occasional issue during shoulder season.
 
Even with my short 12 foot chimney i have no problems but i do with bad wood.

That's good to know Corey21, you're lucky. This seems to be more the exception than the rule.
 
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While I don't see any enormous safety problem with your solution, it does seem more complex than necessary. I like Slow1's suggestion of using a hairdryer.

Do you have a sub-slab vent / radon system? There must be a reason for your strong draft reversal. A short chimney might cause lazy draft, but I don't see why that alone would cause the draft reversal you seem to have.
 
Try a cheapo heat gun from Harbor freight. Let it sit in the stove for about 5 minutes on the high setting. That'll get stuff toasty :-D
 
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