Help with Propane tank fittings

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thecontrolguy

thecontrolguy

Member
Mar 17, 2009
78
Northern British Columbia
Hey all; I just got some 500 gallon propane tanks and am curious what has been done by others with the square fitting at the side of the tank. Looks like the attached photo. I think it was where the level gauge was?

Also I managed to score a very inexpensive glass-lined ASME tank, 750 gallons, from a demolition site. It installed new two years old was being scrapped for the steel! Talk about fortunate timing. It sits upright on 3" sched 40 legs. It still has the original anode rod inside! Should make a fine pressurized hot water storage.


Fraser-Fort George F-20120803-00025.jpgIMG-20120911-00101.jpg
 
Congrats - and love the truck-that series Ford was an exceptional mix of sturdy simple capable and well mannered.
 
That could be a place to put a tank-less coil for DHW ?
 
maple1 said:
It's not that big of a hole, around 1 1/4" I think.
Click to expand...


I think an 1-1/2" nipple welds into that opening perfectly. Here is a 160 gallon tank that I turned into a solar/ drainback tank. On my 500 gallon boiler tank I bolted a piece of 1/4" steel plate onto the four holes with a gasket below. I filled the tank with water and pressurized to 60 psi for a few days.
 

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I would like to propose a general rule-of-thumb. Whenever welding on a nipple or putting in a tee for future expansion that a ball valve be installed in lieu of a plug or cap. When you have to connect into it later, nothing needs to be drained.

Ask me how I came to that conclusion.
 
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To do a coil you need 2 pieces. The threaded piece that gets welded onto tank and the coil that gets screwed into welded piece. My thought was instead of welding existing opening closed, cut it bigger and weld on a tank-less setup.
I didn't do a tank-less set up when I built my system and regret it especially during the summer months.
 
DaveBP said:
I would like to propose a general rule-of-thumb. Whenever welding on a nipple or putting in a tee for future expansion that a ball valve be installed in lieu of a plug or cap. When you have to connect into it later, nothing needs to be drained.

Ask me how I came to that conclusion.
Click to expand...

...and then put the plug in the end of the valve.
 
Also doesn't take much of a bump sometimes to crack open a ball valve a little bit - you might not even realize you even touched that valve on the way by.

Ask me how I came to that conclusion. :rolleyes:
 
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