Anyone have a top vent stove with an elbow right on top?

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diyrye

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Sep 20, 2012
44
Hey guys, I'm just curious how many of you have a setup with an elbow directly ontop of the stove to run back into the liner? I talked to an installer and he says he doesn't like the idea and it won't make enough heat that way but If I wanna install it that way he will come and inspect it. He said it's safe just not an install he wants to do due to possible poor draft and not throwing off enough heat.

So he just said he doesn't want me to be upset if my stove doesn't have good draft and blame him for it so he wants me to do it myself.

I have an interior chimney, with 25' of stainless double wall insulated smooth bore liner which will have a t termination at the bottom, 1' of horizontal pipe connecting the t termination to the elbow ontop of the stove with a couple inches of drop along that 1' section. Thanks for any experiences on if your system may work like this!
 
You have a good memory begreen pulling out my last thread. I didn't mean to post the same question twice. I just got closer to my install so I have a better idea as to what I have to work with. I only need 1' of horizontal pipe to connect to the tee so I didn't know if that made a difference. I wanted to post an update with a new title so I could get some people's responses if they had a setup that worked well this way.

All top vents have two 90's eventually to go back to the thimble and the bend from thimble into liner but most say to have 24" of vertical pipe before the 90. This I know boosts the draft, I was curious though with such a short horizontal run I that would make a difference. I only have to run past the stone mantel. The stove will set flush against the front of the fireplace opening.
 
A couple things you got going for you is that you have an insulated liner, which should heat easily and draw well.

Then also you have a 25' Flue which should draw pretty good and you could add an additional 3 foot piece to the top for extra draw.

People with shorter flues sometimes have chimney draw issues.

So you might just try it and see how it goes.

Just make sure you keep the door cracked or closed till flue heats which shouldnt take long with an insulated liner.
 
To some degree, I think it depends on the exhaust path in the stove. I only have 18" vertical before my 90 and don't have any issues. You also have a tall, insulated liner. It's one of those things that isn't ideal but might work fine in certain situations. You won't really know unless you try it. But if you try it, just don't be surprised if you do have issues.

Boy, I'm not sure that was real helpful. ;em
 
You have a good memory begreen pulling out my last thread. I didn't mean to post the same question twice. I just got closer to my install so I have a better idea as to what I have to work with. I only need 1' of horizontal pipe to connect to the tee so I didn't know if that made a difference. I wanted to post an update with a new title so I could get some people's responses if they had a setup that worked well this way.

All top vents have two 90's eventually to go back to the thimble and the bend from thimble into liner but most say to have 24" of vertical pipe before the 90. This I know boosts the draft, I was curious though with such a short horizontal run I that would make a difference. I only have to run past the stone mantel. The stove will set flush against the front of the fireplace opening.

Not all top vents are connected with elbows. Many installations goes straight up, no 90s at all.

What is the stove make and model? That may determine the success to a certain degree.
 
I could always try to out a thimble in higher but I have at least afoot of solid stone to go through and I don't want to disturb my dry stacked looking stone wall. There is an arch shaped outcropping of stone which is supported by right where the thimble would go.
 
Not all top vents are connected with elbows. Many installations goes straight up, no 90s at all.

What is the stove make and model? That may determine the success to a certain degree.

This is true if there is an interior Insulated chimney pipe running up and out the roof. I meant more of if a stove is connected to a thimble i should say.

The stove is a vogelzang ponderosa.
 
No docs for the Ponderosa on VG's website or Northern Tool's. Looking at the inside view it has huge number of secondary tubes plus what appear to be rear secondary ports. That looks like a lot of air to move. But, the proof of the pudding is in the tasting. Keep us posted on how this works out for you.

Edit, found the manual on Northline Express.
 
Here is what Vogelzang says in the manual.

VG pipe.PNG
 
You have a good memory begreen pulling out my last thread. I didn't mean to post the same question twice. I just got closer to my install so I have a better idea as to what I have to work with. I only need 1' of horizontal pipe to connect to the tee so I didn't know if that made a difference. I wanted to post an update with a new title so I could get some people's responses if they had a setup that worked well this way.

All top vents have two 90's eventually to go back to the thimble and the bend from thimble into liner but most say to have 24" of vertical pipe before the 90. This I know boosts the draft, I was curious though with such a short horizontal run I that would make a difference. I only have to run past the stone mantel. The stove will set flush against the front of the fireplace opening.

I disagree with that. I'm top venting two stoves. One has no bends, just straight up, the other uses two 45s before it hits the 90 inside the chimney.
 
Ok sorry, yes two 45's are better than a 90 but evenrually it needs to add up 90 to get horizontal. I should say the majority of stoves connected to a horizontal thimble use a 90 elbow.

I'm just curious if anyone uses this setup without issues. I guess so far noone has so I guess I'm beating a dead horse?!
 
No docs for the Ponderosa on VG's website or Northern Tool's. Looking at the inside view it has huge number of secondary tubes plus what appear to be rear secondary ports. That looks like a lot of air to move. But, the proof of the pudding is in the tasting. Keep us posted on how this works out for you.

Edit, found the manual on Northline Express.

This is true, proof is in the pudding. I got the stove already so I just need a couple 45's like we talked about before to avoid the T cleanout and allow a smother transition. Cross your fingers, I'll try it next week after my old chimney is cleaned and inspected before I start install. if it doesnt work, then I guess it's air chiseling a hole through lots of stone and putting a thimble in. Thanks.
 
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