Anyone pull the top off of an OSLO?
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I've done it a few times. It's real easy, if I remember right, it has one bolt in the back and 2 in the front. You will need to remove the stove pipe, so you can reach in through flue collar. It is gasketed, so no worries with re-cementing. They are 10mm bolts by the way.
Blue Vomit
Minister of Fire
ive never taken mine off but there are some here who claim you can reach the bolts from inside the stove without taking the flue collar off. i dont see my meathooks doing that though.
good luck
good luck
My Oslo heats my home
Minister of Fire
I have had my top off, but not to service the baffles. I would say taking the top off may help in working on anything in the top sections of the stove. The top comes off very easliy.
If you DO remove the top, when you re-install, you really don't need to re-fasten the top.
It's gasketed at the seams & the weight of it will keep it from moving. This info is right
out of the mouth of a long-time Jotul Rep, & I wouldn't hesistate to take his advice.
It's gasketed at the seams & the weight of it will keep it from moving. This info is right
out of the mouth of a long-time Jotul Rep, & I wouldn't hesistate to take his advice.
semipro
Minister of Fire
I've been running mine without bolts installed on the top or the griddle going on three seasons now.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Mine has a top-load door, so while the perimeter of the top is bolted down, the door itself is just held down by it's own weight on the gasket.
I've never taken the top off an Oslo, but I've pulled the top on two Firelights, and don't see why you'd want to remove the flue collar on one of those to reach the bolts. Maybe the baffles are in the way of getting to the bolts thru the front door on the newer stoves? In any case, one bolt on either side (and a pair of screws for the top door mechanism on mine), and then just pick it up. Make sure to have a towl or tarp laid out, so you have some place to set it after you pick it up. It's not too heavy, but you don't want to be one-handing it while you fiddle with a tarp or blanket, either.
I've never taken the top off an Oslo, but I've pulled the top on two Firelights, and don't see why you'd want to remove the flue collar on one of those to reach the bolts. Maybe the baffles are in the way of getting to the bolts thru the front door on the newer stoves? In any case, one bolt on either side (and a pair of screws for the top door mechanism on mine), and then just pick it up. Make sure to have a towl or tarp laid out, so you have some place to set it after you pick it up. It's not too heavy, but you don't want to be one-handing it while you fiddle with a tarp or blanket, either.
remkel
Minister of Fire
Be very particular when placing that top back in place.....spend the time making certain it is seated properly.
+1. Once the top is in place view it carefully from the front and from the side to be sure that it is sitting level and squarely on the stove body. If it is just a little off, air will leak. This can create uneven burning.
I may have jammed a log in there and bent up the first manifold. Now my burners are slightly tilted and my baffle is loose.
Wouldn't the screws line me up for that? Or are you referring to not sitting on the gasket properly?
I am not talking about the access oval on top. I am talking about taking the whole top off of the stove.
semipro
Minister of Fire
I did but it was to late! already jumped the gun and wrote my reply. Thanks for the info!
Correct, you want it seated flat and parallel on that gasket. I got the top slightly off on the F3CB and it took me a week to figure out why it wasn't burning correctly.
remkel
Minister of Fire
I had the screws lined up, but found out very quickly that just having the screws lined up does not equate to a properly seated gasket. Lit the stove and watched the flames going by through the gasket. The funny thing is prior to that a technician from the stove shop that I had out to make a repair had seated the prior top wrong and I thought I had warped the top (very long story, but I digress). So, be sure to seat that top properly.
semipro
Minister of Fire
I've found that throwing a couple of lighted wadded up sheets of newspaper into a cold stove and closing the door will quickly show leaks around the top gaskets. The trick is to use just enough paper to create smoke without creating enough heat to get a draft going.
I just took the top off our Oslo and I was originally thinking I needed pull the vent pipe from the collar. Since I removed the oval plate bolts during the install I just lifted it off as I do when I clean the rear vent connecting pipe and was quite surprised at how accesible the rear bolt was without needing to disconnect the pipe. IIRC, a 10mm ratcheting combo works beautifully.
I just removed the three bolts and lifted the top off. I had to replace my vermiculite baffle from bumping it too hard last season. After vaccuming off the mating surfaces and the gasket, I carefully set it back onto the box and made sure everything was lined up, equally spaced, etc. I ran an incense stick around the top edge and she's tight as before.
I just removed the three bolts and lifted the top off. I had to replace my vermiculite baffle from bumping it too hard last season. After vaccuming off the mating surfaces and the gasket, I carefully set it back onto the box and made sure everything was lined up, equally spaced, etc. I ran an incense stick around the top edge and she's tight as before.
Ready to assemble. I assume I can use Rutland stove cement to seal the manifold to the stove. Do you have any idea what they use to seal the two pieces of manifold together?. It has a whitish color and by the drips inside from Jotul it almost looks like it had the consistency of glue or caulk.
topoftheriver
Member
I am doing it right now. Pull the stove out. Take the smoke collar off the back (2 screws and nut). Chances are if you are doing this the original baffle broke. Check, it is warrantied. Jotul will give you the baffle for free but not the labor. But no problem. There are two hex bolts #10 in the front and one in the back. Start with the back if you want. Push the baffle forward as far as you can get it so you can reach the bolt. Feel for it. It isn't hard. Put a #10 hex socket on it and unscrew it. Open the front door and push the baffle back. Each side of the front there is the same configuration. Find the bolt and unscrew it; each one. Lift the top off. Check the gasket, you might want to replace it but it isn't really necessary because there is no use there, like the front door or side door. That is it. Pull off the old baffle and place the new one on top of the secondary burn tubes. While it is open you may want to do some routine maintenance, sanding. filing etc. Check everything before you put it back together. Snug the bolts down but you don't have to over do it. Be sure the top doesn't move and you have a snug fit. Need more info, get my private email from my profile and send me a note. I'll write back or call you. I'm in Westport, MA.
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