how does the front lever control air in the Jotul Castine

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DianeB

DianeB

Feeling the Heat
Apr 26, 2012
399
Foot Hills of the Berkshires
The lever moves from the right to the left, with right being fully open air. What is the lever connected to inside and how does it let air enter?

I know about the golf ball sized hole in the rear bottom center, hidden in the rear guard and how to stuff aluminum foil in the hole if the stove gets away from me (learned that here). But wonder how air enters by use of the right to left lever? Still trying to figure this stove out. Used 20 wood mixed with 13 and it took an hour to start tonight. Wonder if I am blocking air entry with ash or something else? Help...appreciated!
 
First off, read your book that came with the stove or download one. Then tweak the way you use and opperate the stove by your setup and wood that you are usin. I'm on my second year with my Jotul after years of burnin a regular stove and I'm still learnin. But I'm glad I spent the money on the 1 I got cuz it is a heat makin machine. Not as easy to operate as a cat stove I guess but I really wouldnt want a cat stove and they arnt available in my neck of the woods anyhow.
 
Butcher said:
First off, read your book that came with the stove or download one. Then tweak the way you use and opperate the stove by your setup and wood that you are usin. I'm on my second year with my Jotul after years of burnin a regular stove and I'm still learnin. But I'm glad I spent the money on the 1 I got cuz it is a heat makin machine. Not as easy to operate as a cat stove I guess but I really wouldnt want a cat stove and they arnt available in my neck of the woods anyhow.
Click to expand...
read the book, but does not explain how air enters the stove, just curious. Still just cool and not cold her so maybe draft plays a role.
 
The lever moves an iron slider back and forth over the main primary air inlet. The air comes from the hole on the lower bottom of the stove, as does the secondary air. After you start the fire, leave the door cracked for a bit to encourage draft, that usually helps. Are you sure the wood is that dry? Did you split it before you took a moisture reading?
 
webby3650 said:
The lever moves an iron slider back and forth over the main primary air inlet. The air comes from the hole on the lower bottom of the stove, as does the secondary air. After you start the fire, leave the door cracked for a bit to encourage draft, that usually helps. Are you sure the wood is that dry? Did you split it before you took a moisture reading?
Click to expand...
yes, was split just today for moisture reading. Is the hole lower bottom in the rear or in the front? Would build up of ash cause the hole to block? Will check ash pan tomorrow when cooled. Read conflicting information as to clean out the ash pan or not. Don't have too much build up in stove, but if ash pan full and I have lots of coal and ash in stove, perhaps blocking the bottom air. Old fisher had not ashpan - had to just shovel it out once a week or so and air entered from through 2 spinning knobs.
 
DianeB said:
yes, was split just today for moisture reading. Is the hole lower bottom in the rear or in the front? Would build up of ash cause the hole to block? Will check ash pan tomorrow when cooled. Read conflicting information as to clean out the ash pan or not. Don't have too much build up in stove, but if ash pan full and I have lots of coal and ash in stove, perhaps blocking the bottom air. Old fisher had not ashpan - had to just shovel it out once a week or so and air entered from through 2 spinning knobs.
Click to expand...
oops, forgot to say that leaving the door open helped if finally catch
 
Random thoughts . . . although this is from an Oslo user . . . guessing that the Castine is set up similar.

On a cold start I usually figure on anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour to get the fire going and the stove set at its "cruising speed" -- the time really depends on a lot of variables from how well seasoned the wood is, amount and type of kindling, draft, etc. For example, last night I had a weak draft due to a relatively warm temp outside and it took a bit to get going . . . your results may vary.

Webby pretty much explained how the air control works . . . at least that is how it works in my Oslo. Generally ash doesn't get in there and block things . . . at least not much . . . sometimes enough will get in to make the lever a bit sticky. I do try to keep the air holes in the firebox open with the wood a half inch or more away from the outlet holes. As for the ash in the ash pan blocking the air . . . doesn't work that way . . . at least in the Oslo . . . air coming in doesn't move through the ash . . . it's your choice to dump or not dump . . . personally, I dump my ashes in the Oslo since it is a very functional and useful ash pan.
 
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firefighterjake said:
Random thoughts . . . although this is from an Oslo user . . . guessing that the Castine is set up similar.

On a cold start I usually figure on anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour to get the fire going and the stove set at its "cruising speed" -- the time really depends on a lot of variables from how well seasoned the wood is, amount and type of kindling, draft, etc. For example, last night I had a weak draft due to a relatively warm temp outside and it took a bit to get going . . . your results may vary.

Webby pretty much explained how the air control works . . . at least that is how it works in my Oslo. Generally ash doesn't get in there and block things . . . at least not much . . . sometimes enough will get in to make the lever a bit sticky. I do try to keep the air holes in the firebox open with the wood a half inch or more away from the outlet holes. As for the ash in the ash pan blocking the air . . . doesn't work that way . . . at least in the Oslo . . . air coming in doesn't move through the ash . . . it's your choice to dump or not dump . . . personally, I dump my ashes in the Oslo since it is a very functional and useful ash pan.
Click to expand...
where are the air holes inside the stove...the floor of the stove is covered with couple of inches of ash/old coals. She we keep the floor of the stove cleared of spent ash/coal to keep the air holes open?
 
The air comes in the hole on the bottom, then is diverted in the back of the stove, behind the scenes. You have no access to this, except for the little "doghouse" that is front and center. This is where the primary air comes into the stove. You can remove the cover with a 10 mm socket if you want to see how it works and check for blockages. I doubt there is any issues there. There is a bit of a learning curve with new stoves, you'll get it.
 
webby3650 said:
The air comes in the hole on the bottom, then is diverted in the back of the stove, behind the scenes. You have no access to this, except for the little "doghouse" that is front and center. This is where the primary air comes into the stove. You can remove the cover with a 10 mm socket if you want to see how it works and check for blockages. I doubt there is any issues there. There is a bit of a learning curve with new stoves, you'll get it.
Click to expand...
great answer, just checked the back of the stove and saw at the top of the back panel a gap. Can now see how the air comes in from the bottom and enters chamber at the back panel at the top and perhaps even at the sides. Won't play around with the dog house just yet, can hear the movement in the back as the lever as moved so can visualize what might be going on in there - thankis
 
DianeB said:
where are the air holes inside the stove...the floor of the stove is covered with couple of inches of ash/old coals. She we keep the floor of the stove cleared of spent ash/coal to keep the air holes open?
Click to expand...

I think Webby answered most of your questions . . . but I personally always rake the ash and coals a bit away from the air holes near the dog house . . . probably I don't need to do this . . . but it makes me feel better.
 
Hmmm . . . maybe the Castine is different. Open up the front door and stick your head inside (while the fire is not going) . . . the Oslo has three holes pointing inward towards the fire on the doghouse.
 
DianeB said:
The lever moves from the right to the left, with right being fully open air. What is the lever connected to inside and how does it let air enter?

I know about the golf ball sized hole in the rear bottom center, hidden in the rear guard and how to stuff aluminum foil in the hole if the stove gets away from me (learned that here). But wonder how air enters by use of the right to left lever? Still trying to figure this stove out. Used 20 wood mixed with 13 and it took an hour to start tonight. Wonder if I am blocking air entry with ash or something else? Help...appreciated!
Click to expand...

I doubt this would be your issue, but it's happened a couple times to me (I have a Castine).... the metal plate in the doghouse that regulates air occasionally comes off the lever; the lever can be moved, but the plate stays put. If the plate came off in the minimum air position, you'd never get enough air to get the stove going.
 
firefighterjake said:
Hmmm . . . maybe the Castine is different. Open up the front door and stick your head inside (while the fire is not going) . . . the Oslo has three holes pointing inward towards the fire on the doghouse.
Click to expand...

The Casting also has those ports.

The lever inserts into a horizontal slider valve under the doghouse cover. If it's become disengaged somehow, there will be no air control. Take off the doghouse cover to check this.
 
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