Intro: I live in Southern MN on the Iowa border and recently upgraded to a Jotul f500 from a Morso 2110. I loved the 2110, but I had to overfire it to keep the house warm. You just notice that after 5 or 6 years burning all day every day (as often as I was here to load the thing) for 6 mos, when you've gone through two cast iron bottoms, you are just abusing the unit that a bigger one is the better way to go. Thank you craigslist....I picked up the F500 for a grand less that a new one in mint shape. I took the time to clean the pipe with my poly brush at this point and time, but it was dead clean. Literally, a few cups of creosote from the whole works....and I hadn't cleaned it in two years as the last time it was the same way. I guess running it hot helps - granted I have a super draft with that length of pipe.
My setup: vaulted ceiling A-frame with a loft, 12 ft of double wall stainless, another 4 ft or so of adjustable length stainless, a pair of 45s with a 24" jog into the box on the other side of the ridge beam, and into the chimney itself - so that makes 17-18 ft inside the house. The original bit was professionally installed. Given that the F500 has the same size flue, I just swapped stoves. It sits on a massive stone cove (bottom and sides) with flat limestone layed up on Durock with a 2x4 wall behind that is vented on top. I have never had the wall even get hot. I had planned to put a fan in the wall to pull heat off the rock. That never happened.
To the point: I was told a few things when I bought a few odds and ends from the people who installed the original unit when I put the F500 in.
1) I didn't need a damper as the unit itself was so tight....I didn't need one with the 2110, but had it anyway - it was just cooked to death though. I could never tell a difference, so I will temporarlily agree with them.
2) That I should get a flue thermometer (never had one before) and burn in the ideal slot (orange - 300 ish) most of the time, and try once a week to get it as hot (red - maybe 600-700) as I can get it to keep the flue clean like it used to be.
3) That is was a ROCK solid unit...but I guess I knew that.
Of note, I burn very dry wood. Usually red elm with no bark that was standing dead for a year or two, then I cut it and split it and let it dry for another year or two. The current few cords I have cut is all at least 3-4 years dry, especially after last winter when I burned nothing. I also burn a bit of oak, walnut, cherry, and maple. Those are usually smaller pieces as I turn bowls and use the quarter/corner cuts from my bandsaw as filler/starter wood when I'm home from my day job. Overall, I have a very well insulated house (SIP), and with the Morso 2110, I went through at best 2 cords a year. I do suspect I'll use more wood now with the F500.
So...here's the deal. I can't get the stove hot. I love it, it drafts like a machine....SUPER easy to start fires in - just look at it crosswise and she's lit. I ran the thing full tilt last night and with very dry wood, and maybe a half a box of smaller elm, I got it to about 400. I was thinking there is no way I could go over 500 even if I added a small dose of thermite (ok..just kidding). And I could only get 400 by opening the ash pan to let in more air, but then it seemed to get so hot (still only 400) I felt uneasy - and in no way is that a good deal. I want to be 100% CONFIDENT when I have things like fires inside of my house.
I'm wondering if this is all normal given my setup? Am I ok to try to keep going to get the unit into the 700 zone for a half hour to clean out the flue? Was the guy NUTS? I'm not exactly a newbie, but...
Is this stove just SO much bigger than my old one I have to learn a whole new comfort zone with heat?
Do systems with massively tall flue stacks tend to stay cleaner and not get the flues as hot?
Am I an idiot? (be nice) Am I taking three pointers when I have an open court for a layup?
Do I need to cut and dry a boxelder or basswood and have a separate pile of wood to get it hotter for shorter periods of time to help clean out the flue?
Or should I just be ready to break out the brush more often and do as I am doing going to 400 here and there, burning at 250-300 most of the time. (the stove's happy zone to me so far).
You are the pros...let me know.
Thanks.
Andy
My setup: vaulted ceiling A-frame with a loft, 12 ft of double wall stainless, another 4 ft or so of adjustable length stainless, a pair of 45s with a 24" jog into the box on the other side of the ridge beam, and into the chimney itself - so that makes 17-18 ft inside the house. The original bit was professionally installed. Given that the F500 has the same size flue, I just swapped stoves. It sits on a massive stone cove (bottom and sides) with flat limestone layed up on Durock with a 2x4 wall behind that is vented on top. I have never had the wall even get hot. I had planned to put a fan in the wall to pull heat off the rock. That never happened.
To the point: I was told a few things when I bought a few odds and ends from the people who installed the original unit when I put the F500 in.
1) I didn't need a damper as the unit itself was so tight....I didn't need one with the 2110, but had it anyway - it was just cooked to death though. I could never tell a difference, so I will temporarlily agree with them.
2) That I should get a flue thermometer (never had one before) and burn in the ideal slot (orange - 300 ish) most of the time, and try once a week to get it as hot (red - maybe 600-700) as I can get it to keep the flue clean like it used to be.
3) That is was a ROCK solid unit...but I guess I knew that.
Of note, I burn very dry wood. Usually red elm with no bark that was standing dead for a year or two, then I cut it and split it and let it dry for another year or two. The current few cords I have cut is all at least 3-4 years dry, especially after last winter when I burned nothing. I also burn a bit of oak, walnut, cherry, and maple. Those are usually smaller pieces as I turn bowls and use the quarter/corner cuts from my bandsaw as filler/starter wood when I'm home from my day job. Overall, I have a very well insulated house (SIP), and with the Morso 2110, I went through at best 2 cords a year. I do suspect I'll use more wood now with the F500.
So...here's the deal. I can't get the stove hot. I love it, it drafts like a machine....SUPER easy to start fires in - just look at it crosswise and she's lit. I ran the thing full tilt last night and with very dry wood, and maybe a half a box of smaller elm, I got it to about 400. I was thinking there is no way I could go over 500 even if I added a small dose of thermite (ok..just kidding). And I could only get 400 by opening the ash pan to let in more air, but then it seemed to get so hot (still only 400) I felt uneasy - and in no way is that a good deal. I want to be 100% CONFIDENT when I have things like fires inside of my house.
I'm wondering if this is all normal given my setup? Am I ok to try to keep going to get the unit into the 700 zone for a half hour to clean out the flue? Was the guy NUTS? I'm not exactly a newbie, but...
Is this stove just SO much bigger than my old one I have to learn a whole new comfort zone with heat?
Do systems with massively tall flue stacks tend to stay cleaner and not get the flues as hot?
Am I an idiot? (be nice) Am I taking three pointers when I have an open court for a layup?
Do I need to cut and dry a boxelder or basswood and have a separate pile of wood to get it hotter for shorter periods of time to help clean out the flue?
Or should I just be ready to break out the brush more often and do as I am doing going to 400 here and there, burning at 250-300 most of the time. (the stove's happy zone to me so far).
You are the pros...let me know.
Thanks.
Andy
But don't sweat it . . . it's something many of us did at first until we realized just how bad this was.
