Replaced Exhaust /combustion blower, now smell smoke

You need to seal the connection. I use 600 degree rtv gasket maker from the auto parts store.

Don't be shy with high temp aluminum flue tape. It works great too.

what is an exhaust starter gasket. The pipe adapter that hooks to the back of the stove needs to be sealed with high temp silicone.

He likely has some form of quick disconnect on the stove considering it is an insert. I suspect the gasket goes between the adapter portion and the vent portion but can't really say for certain.

There is such a critter on the M55 inserts and sometimes the metal that forms the clamping system gets bent and it doesn't clamp the gasket tightly between the two pieces and form a good seal.

Hope you don't mind my joining this thread. Smokey has been helping with my first questions so just joining here about smoke smell and flue tape. Added the appropriate adapter from stove to tee and smoke smell has definitely improved dramatically, yet still have a little.

I have searched hi and lo for "flue tape" locally in stores, tractor supply co's, Lowe's, Home Depot, Hearth and Home dealers and they all look at me like I've totally lost my mind. I keep hearing -- "I've work for furnace and stove companies for 20 years and never heard of the stuff" yet I can locate it on the Internet thanks to Smokey and guess I'll have to procure it that way. I would love an opinion on whether or not the 350 degree aluminum tape I have would be sufficient and safe -- paid $20 bucks for the roll and would love to use it somewhere ....

BTW the adapter slide very easily onto the stove portion - a little too easy as far as I'm concerned so I would like to add the tape there - it locks nicely into the Tee though so that makes me happy. I also re-RTV'd my tee cap though that particular cap seems to be a real bear to get off -- the only way I've successfully gotten it off is to remove the Tee from the stove which sort of makes having it a null point don't u think. Maybe i should just go to a 90 and deal with the mess a little more often and i'd have to with the Tee unless there's some trick to making them easier to remove that you all know of. Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

Look here is a link to one source for the tape you can also order it through Ace Hardware if your local Ace doesn't have it in stock and likely just about any hardware store that sells 3M products even if the one you are at doesn't normally carry it :http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4DS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Tom Bentley said:

Hope you don't mind my joining this thread. Smokey has been helping with my first questions so just joining here about smoke smell and flue tape. Added the appropriate adapter from stove to tee and smoke smell has definitely improved dramatically, yet still have a little.

I have searched hi and lo for "flue tape" locally in stores, tractor supply co's, Lowe's, Home Depot, Hearth and Home dealers and they all look at me like I've totally lost my mind. I keep hearing -- "I've work for furnace and stove companies for 20 years and never heard of the stuff" yet I can locate it on the Internet thanks to Smokey and guess I'll have to procure it that way. I would love an opinion on whether or not the 350 degree aluminum tape I have would be sufficient and safe -- paid $20 bucks for the roll and would love to use it somewhere ....

BTW the adapter slide very easily onto the stove portion - a little too easy as far as I'm concerned so I would like to add the tape there - it locks nicely into the Tee though so that makes me happy. I also re-RTV'd my tee cap though that particular cap seems to be a real bear to get off -- the only way I've successfully gotten it off is to remove the Tee from the stove which sort of makes having it a null point don't u think. Maybe i should just go to a 90 and deal with the mess a little more often and i'd have to with the Tee unless there's some trick to making them easier to remove that you all know of. Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

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In one word about what you found for tape NO.

You could try an automotive supply store, they carry high heat exhaust manifold tape - aluminum - that far exceeds the 350 degree mark. I have used this tape to seal a joint in my wood stove pipe with great success. Never tried it on a pellet stove though so dont take my word that it will work in your particular application.

SmokeyTheBear said:

In one word about what you found for tape NO.

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When you install the stove adapter you run a bead of silicone around the inside of the inside section of the piping and slide it over the stoves exhaust until it is all the way on, then you drill a pilot hole through the inside portion of the adapter at the stove end, place a dab of sealant into the hole and where the screw head will be, then insert the screw and tighten. After which you repeat the screwing action as many times as the vent manufacturer says (usually three screws are wanted). Then a bead of silicone is placed around where the adapter ends closest to the stove. Some adapters even need the area between the outer and inner pipe sealed as well. You do that and that adapter ain't about to go anywhere at all and will be gas tight which is exactly what you want. No short cuts and there will be no leaks. Watch the length of all screws you use if you puncture the inner pipe there will be smoke entering the area between the two pipes and it will find a way out if the outside joints aren't sealed.

SmokeyTheBear said:

In one word about what you found for tape NO

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I am new to the world of pellet stoves and type L vent pipe. So I don't mean to be challenging what you say, but I don't understand why everyone insists on high temperature tape. The Type L is rated for use within 1 inch of combustible surfaces, an indication that it doesn't get very hot.I measured the outside temperature of the vent on my 25-PDVC, and it was only 120 F after 1/2 hour burn at a feed rate setting of 5. So why isn't a temperature rating of 350 good enough?

Harvey Schneider said:

I am new to the world of pellet stoves and type L vent pipe. So I don't mean to be challenging what you say, but I don't understand why everyone insists on high temperature tape. The Type L is rated for use within 1 inch of combustible surfaces, an indication that it doesn't get very hot.I measured the outside temperature of the vent on my 25-PDVC, and it was only 120 F after 1/2 hour burn at a feed rate setting of 5. So why isn't a temperature rating of 350 good enough?

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Because the requirement for sealing requires a higher temperature as there isn't a 1" insulation gap and the joints and seals can flex exposing the sealing material to exhaust gases which can exceed 450 even under normal conditions. We won't mention non normal conditions such as a 'sote fire in the plumbing. Your combustion blower will thermal out at 475 and any RTV used is supposed to be at least 500 . Sealing is supposed to be able to withstand such situations, it is a matter of safely containing what is inside of the venting not what the outside surface is reflecting.

Folks need to understand that failing to maintain the safety factors, basically doing a poor installation, results in drastic issues as noted on here repeatedly by member Don2222 who looks for fires that involve pellet stoves.

Thanks all. I waited for your responses before making any "sealing" changes. Still no luck locally am going to internet to order after checking anything with Ace Hardware roundabouts here. I did go looking for and bought my fourth tube of silicone while out today -- its rtv copper rated to 700 which makes me feel more comfortable when i get ready to apply to joints etc.

Thanks as always for your wize recommendations --I'd rather safe than homeless.

Tom

SmokeyTheBear said:

Sealing is supposed to be able to withstand such situations, it is a matter of safely containing what is inside of the venting not what the outside surface is reflecting

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Thanks for the answer. I always do better when I understand why I am doing something. I hadn't been thinking in terms of containing a failure, I was thinking in terms of normal operation.