Englander 13-NCH

My parents have a similar set up with the 13 in the basement. They heat 1500 sqft pretty decent with that little stove. Its well worth the money.

Yes they have a raised ranch so they heat half the basement and all 1000 sqft upstairs.

What's your budget like? Keep in mind the chimney will likely cost as much or more than the stove.

We can get 6-8 hours from it. You can load it up and adjust you air and she will be good.

I have a Englander 13NCL which is the same stove. It works well but I'm not a big fan of the firebox shape as I wish it was deeper rather than wider. I might even consider a 30 NC if I was going to do it over again.

CatieG said:

trying to keep it under $1200 for the whole project. For the chimney I want to take it out a wall (way easier access to install) and take it up the side of the house. I know bends decrease draft but thats our only option really :/ I also want a UL listed three layer metal chimney. Was thinking of searching ebay/ craigslist. for materials. Good/ bad resorces?

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Double wall, insulated pipe is what most use. Selkirk Supervent is available thru box stores, and usually most affordable. You may get lucky on craigslist, but if it doesn't include everything you need, you can't mix parts from another brand. Whatever you buy, keep in mind that you are starting a fire in your house.

Not sure if you have a Menard's in Maryland, but Lowes also sells the Supervent stuff. I know that they recently dropped their price to match Menard's (on the pipe, at least).
You should be able to get everything you need from them, but may have to do it online.
Here's https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/selkirk-supervent-installation-begins.75341/ a very well documented install from WoodNStuff from about a year ago. The difference would be yours going through the wall instead of ceiling. I did mine almost exactly the same (w/o documenting it) except the framing in the ceiling was already there.
I can link more if you need help.

I have another take on it. Your basement, even if insulated, may be a very high heat load area. You have basement walls at a constant 55*F, and being earth walls against concrete or cinder block, they're great heat sinks. Couple that with the fact that it's hard to make heat go from upstairs to downstairs, and I think your basement is going to be very cold if heating 100% with a woodstove placed upstairs.

Bottom line, I think you need some form of heat in that basement, given that's where your bedrooms are. If there's no room to put the stove down there, then I think you might do well putting the stove upstairs, and planning to still run some other form of heat in your basement. Is the basement zoned separately from the rest of the house on your central heating system?

CatieG, here's some more good install info. http://www.docstoc.com/docs/8492586/Wood-Stove-Chimney-Installation-Planner

"Any suggestions on type of tile"
Pick what you like.
"and a husband " Now, that's funny.

What do the "extra" letters stand for in the OP's title.........13NCH??????? And in TMonters post; 13NCL???

I've only seen the 13NC listed as 13NC unless it was sold or advertised under the TimberRidge or SummersHeat names. Are these upgraded stoves or variants???

My Englander 13NC is the "real deal" IMHO. Heats my 1100ft. ranch without a basement with no problem Haven't hit the furnace switch yet!!

Welcome to the forum CatieG.

It sounds like your mind is made up and that is probably good. As for running the chimney out through the wall before going up, that can be good but it is a bit more expensive. One nice part is that you put a tee in and then you can clean the chimney from the ground and for sure you save dollars by not having to have a sweep come in to do this for you. And while we are on chimneys, it is recommended that new wood burners clean or at least check that chimney monthly in the first 2 years of burning.

On the thimble or the horizontal section going through the wall, be sure to give it a minimum of 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal pipe. For us, we went at least 1/2" rise whereas before we did not have that much rise but when we put in a new chimney when we bought our last stove and had some problems with the draft. Now all is well.

Now comes the biggie in my book. What have you done for your wood supply? Have you even checked on getting wood? Are you planning on purchasing this wood? The reason for asking is that this is the thing that most people look at last when putting in a wood stove but it should be looked at first! Why? Because you can not just go cut wood and expect it to burn. Most wood needs a year to dry and some, like oak, take 3 years. Also, wood doesn't dry much at all until it has been split and if you buy wood, that wood is usually split on the day it is delivered. If this is the case, prepare yourself for some major problems. Have I mentioned that you need dry wood to burn in that stove?

Good luck.

CatieG said:

I just went downstairs to see where we could put a woodstove; no luck. so we'd definitely put it upstairs in the living room. I read an article that the 13 was a good heat but not a long burn. Can it hold a fire over night?? I have also heard that you can overload a small stove. How does that happen?

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Don't worry too much about this. Overloading does not happen much at all and if so, it is usually in large stoves. But I think you were referring to overfiring rather than overloading.

Catie,

I don't think it's a problem putting the stove upstairs. It's just that with the stove upstairs, you will likely need to continue to use the furnace to at least partially heat those bedrooms in the basement. I have a similar situation in my house, in that I never plan to be 100% free of the oil furnace, but I am taking a big chunk out of the oil bill with my woodburning.