What happened to my lazy flames

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stocker

stocker

Member
Oct 31, 2010
57
Northwest Indiana
At the end of last year and now this year my lazy flames no longer exist...My stove is a PE super 27 and I bought it new in 2010. It seemed to pass the dollar bill test but seems like its still getting too much air. What should I be looking for next..I was gonna replace door gasket but only 2 years on a gasket doesn't seem like too long. What do you all think? I really want my mesmorizing flames back...Also getting a little build up on bottom corner handle side and some fantom flames in front on bottom.
 
Oh yea, 2 yr split and stacked pine and mulberry for now. The oak will be later and thats 3 yrs. Moisture tested on fresh split at 10 for pine and 15.6 for mulberry.
 
I'd replace the door gasket and see what happens. Door gaskets don't always last as long as you would think.
 
See if you can puff that gasket out on the handle side a bit more.

How was your wood last year? Was it the same quality or wetter?

Matt
 
You might find this thread helpful regarding the doors and gaskets on the Super 27. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/super-27-door.54386/#post-682671
I especially found this quote from Tom, "thechimneysweep", interesting because I was curious about the gaskets used on the Super's and how to adjust the door latch.
PE is now using a graphite impregnated, low-compression gasket which makes a seal at extremely low pressure. If the bill doesn't slide out when you let go, your door seal should be tight enough.
Click to expand...

The thread is from Oct. 2010
 
I fluffed it before I started burning this season, and also ended up ripping a dollar (woops) thats when I was thinking maybe something in front bottom area but I can't see in there too well. Is there a way to take something off and look? Or should I just deal with it? It just seems I will be going through wood a little faster this winter. Any more ideas? Oh and the wood is all the same, but moisture was at 14 for pine and 18 for the rest (Mulberry, cherry, birch) ash and oak were higher at 22-25 so they didn't get burned last year plus it wasn't that cold. What about the glass gasket? Is that something that will usually leak air after 2 years?
 
Looks like it'll be the incense trick. Then, if necessary, gasket replacement. Still got time before the winter hits. Thanks everyone. I still want any other advise anyone has.
 
Might just be the pine + a drop in the outdoor temps. Try switching to larger hardwood splits.
 
Will try a couple oaks next load, right now I have all mulberry and it has better constant secondaries but still seems too active. Oh well as long as its heating all is good.
 
Could be the wood i have noticed a change in flames going from oak to black gum and back and fourth.
 
Split size makes a big difference too. Are the splits the same size as last year?
 
With split sizes, is it the bigger ones that give off the lazy flames? My splits are usually a variety, probably smaller than the usual though.
 
Smaller splits are going to outgas quicker and with more flame.
 
What I did is take a needle under the braiding and pull out all up and down the latch side (where it was smooshed most) not sure if thats what he meant but its what I did, in turn puffing or as I called it, fluffing.
 
stocker said:
What I did is take a needle under the braiding and pull out all up and down the latch side (where it was smooshed most) not sure if thats what he meant but its what I did, in turn puffing or as I called it, fluffing.
Click to expand...


I just put a new gasket on my stove door I am very interested to see how better it runs.
 
stocker said:
What I did is take a needle under the braiding and pull out all up and down the latch side (where it was smooshed most) not sure if thats what he meant but its what I did, in turn puffing or as I called it, fluffing.
Click to expand...
Thanks stocker, I'll have to try that. Replaced the gasket last year and it's not holding a snug bill in all areas this year.
 
I also have a Super 27 and I've always felt like it gets too much air. At first I thought I just had a super strong draft because I have a tall chimney and the stove is in the basement but after a few years using the stove and seeing other people's stoves with similar setups I think it's a combination of too much air and strong draft. I can't load my stove full because if I do the stove will go nuclear on me. I had to put a damper section in the pipe so I can control it better if it does take off on me.

I've done the dollar bill test, checked for cracks and checked for leaks but haven't found anything wrong. I know two people who have similarly sized chimneys with wood furnaces in their basements and they don't have any problems at all. Of course they are also burning wood that they call "seasoned" which means they have a truck load of tree length wood delivered in the summer, cut it/split it in October and burn it that winter. So who knows what would happen if they were cramming their furnaces with my wood which is all very dry. I was actually told by someone that my wood is too dry, that's why it burns too hot. Maybe they were right, maybe I should start mixing in a few greener splits in.
 
Never loaded mine full yet either. It hits 700 stovetop with just 4 medium size splits, that is when I turn on the blower fan. My chimney is around 16-18 ft from stove to cap and a straight shot and an awesome draft. I can start that baby in no time.
 
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