My Woodgun doing it's thing.

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Sure had a 15m probe when I was looking a while ago - but I don't think it had a connector on the end, just bare wires. You'd have to figure out how to wire to the guage - would be easy if you could find the right connector/plug likely.
 
I just tried extending the leads with about 15 feet of cat 5. Worked fine with no need for a pick up resistor. I used two of the cat 5 wires for each of the three wires on the temp probe.
 
Dogwood...The labels under the readouts were made with a lable maker I got at office depot. The tape for the labels are1/2 inch wide and called black on clear. Mikefrommaine What did you use for a power source?
 
I'll chip in that I'm using an old 12v adaptor I found kicking around in the kids stuff. No idea what it was originally for, but it wasn't being used any more so now it's mine. You can get them anywhere to power 12v DC electronic stuff. I just cut the end off & wire nutted.
 
I have researched these about a year ago but I'm having trouble finding them again.
Anyone have a link to to them?
Also what are the model numbers you used for the rectangular and round ones.
Are the probes sold separate?
 
Rick,
Can you help me out with a link to buy them and what models you used?
Thanks
 
Here's what I ordered 3 weeks ago. They're not here yet. I got the same ones only blue this summer - got 6, have had two hooked up each with dual probes for a month or so. Didn't see the blue ones when I went looking 3 weeks ago, I think their offerings are in flux a bit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Digital...es-/230844232854?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160
Thanks mike,
Where do you think I could find the high temp models for the flue temp and the gasification tube?
 
Try an Ebay 'pyrometer' search.

I did that a couple weeks ago & found lots of interesting stuff. Much of it unfamiliar but there looked like a lot of possibilities. I've forgotten about it for the time being. Pyrometers & thermocouples capable of doing a gassing chamber will be more expensive that thermometers for hot water.
 
How do you plan on getting the lead into the burn chamber?

ac

I think the only way, is to put the probe n the rear of the chamber and close the door on the wire. I assume since Rick has done it the wire doesn't get crushed and malfunction.
 
I think the only way, is to put the probe n the rear of the chamber and close the door on the wire. I assume since Rick has done it the wire doesn't get crushed and malfunction.

That was my thought also. I have a thermocouple probe that I have been very tempted to feed in through the front door seal. I could check temps entering the internal "cyclone exchanger" or coming out of the 2 return ports (clearly the left gets more flow than the right).

ac
 
I will take some pictures tonight and post them later. I drilled and tapped a hole in the back door and put the probe from a pyrometer in the hole. That probe is aligned with the center gasification tunnel. I can get pyro readings in the 1800 degree range. the other probe is in a drilled and tapped hole in the ring on the top of the cyclone. That probe has readings in the 425 degree range. Pictures will help with understanding.
 
I will take some pictures tonight and post them later. I drilled and tapped a hole in the back door and put the probe from a pyrometer in the hole. That probe is aligned with the center gasification tunnel. I can get pyro readings in the 1800 degree range. the other probe is in a drilled and tapped hole in the ring on the top of the cyclone. That probe has readings in the 425 degree range. Pictures will help with understanding.

Wow. That's just about as good as you could ask for. 1800F peak temps, dropped all the way down to 425F. That's a lot of heat going where you want it: to the water. 425F is a good flue temp in my opinion. Should be high enough to keep a good natural draft in the flue and keep creosote/condensation away.

Definitely please take some pics!

ac
 
Of course you drilled and tapped it in. Looking at the box alone shows you wouldnt do anything half assed.
Very impressive.
I assume you had to drill through the refractory and the stainless plate.
I also assume that the probe is long enough to make through the stainless plate.

Is the link I posted where you got that gauge? Where did you get the flue temp gauge?

I want to make a box like that and put in the room that is adjacent to the WG.
But I need about 15 ft of wire. Do you think that it is extendable?
 
They sell a 3 meter lead. I've also tested successfully extending the leads with cat 5. Still working on my box.

Took the hard way and am using a metal box. Found a flush mount 14 x 14 structured wiring box at lowes for 30 dollars. Slow going cutting out 13 slots with a dremel tool.
 
That's for the sure electronics gauges. But I wonder if that thermocouple for the gasification tube can be extended.

Do you have any pics of your set up?
 
O.K. Here is the gasification pyrometer probe in the back door.
 

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The last picture is the inside of the door. I drilled and tapped the probe in the outside of the door. then I took a hole saw and drilled the tapped hole out to 11/2 inch. You will have to drill the insulation and the steel plate over the insulation. After you get the 11/2 hole drilled. take some good high temp silicone and fill in around the probe. If you don't backfill the hole I think the steel door will get to hot around the probe and at very least discolor the door.
 
Here is the readout with the boiler running. It was gasifing at the time the picture was taken. I took the flue temp at the time the picture was taken with my IR thermometer and the ouyside of the pipe was 276 degrees. BIG difference
 

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I snuck a few thermocouples in through my front door today. I placed one in the left concrete port and one in the lower metal chamber.

I see ~1000F in the left concrete tube when I can hear the unit gassify. Temp doesn't drop much inside the lower left chamber. 700-800F.

Next I'll try to sneak the probe into the center tube past the plug.

ac
 
Here is where I got the 110v power to the transformer inside the box. The other picture is just a sender chase to get the sender wires into the bottom of the display.
 

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