Cracks in LOPI Freedom

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Hass said:
rakuz66 said:
Thanks for your resonse. The stove is about 7 yeras old and yes I have gotten it abnormally hot in the past. I wasn't as educated on it as I am now. Live and learn I guess. I was also told that welds typically hold for about 2-3 years and then crack again. I am leaning towards getting a new insert, any thoughts?? By the way, looking into a Regency insert, does anyone have any opinions on Regency? Also , I was told to keep any new insert around 500 degrees max. I never used a thermostat before, so do they sit on top of the stove? I want to make sure that this doesn't happen again.

I'm going to jump all over this, and any other comment that was made about it.

If it is welded properly, it should not crack again. (I won't say never, because it's possible if you abuse the stove)
Under normal conditions, operating the stove within specs it should never crack again.
If the weld is done properly, the rest of the stove should crack before the stove.

and when I say properly welded, I mean you'll probably have to take it to a REAL shop, or get a REAL welder.
Not someone running a mom and pop shop, or the guy down the road that does it in his garage.
I mean a real, shop that constantly does quality work. Pressure vessels are a different boat, but same concept.
Shops that do them would be ideal if you can get a welder from there to pick it up as a side job.

I forgot to see where you lived so I don't know what type of shops are in your area...
Weld areas typically have a higher tensile/compression strength and heat tolerance than the base metal.

So you find someone, have them grind out the crack all the way.
Do a P.T. on the crack, make sure it's ground down to bare metal.
Fill in the crack as if it required to be 100% (as it is).
Do a final P.T. on the cover pass.
If the crack is all the way through, do all of the above, except on the backside you backgrind all the way through to the weld that you made... do a P.T. to make sure it's all the way down.
Fill it up and do your final P.T.
If they can't get to the backside of the weld, just groove it out and fill it up. Eassssy breezy.

It's easy, a few cracks should take a good welder 2 hours max including P.T. time.
A price of $80-150/hr is not all that uncommon though.
Just to give you a heads up.
You get what you pay for with welding. Remember that.

Or just take it to any old moron, let them throw burn up some e6013 rods in there, pass him a $20 then don't worry about it.
You won't have to worry about it, because you'll probably have died from CO.


The coffee was strong today, wasn't it?
 
I live outside Philadelphia, Pa. I contacted a welder from the area who is going to come over FRiday morning to take a look at it. My brother in law also is a machinist who wleds and he said he could do it. The first welder might be able to do it on-site which would be nice, but my b-i-l would need to take it to his shop which would be a pain. I will say this, the LOPI rep told me that the cracks were not a safety issue. So, I'm totally confused?
 
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rakuz66 said:
I live outside Philadelphia, Pa. I contacted a welder from the area who is going to come over FRiday morning to take a look at it. My brother in law also is a machinist who wleds and he said he could do it. The first welder might be able to do it on-site which would be nice, but my b-i-l would need to take it to his shop which would be a pain. I will say this, the LOPI rep told me that the cracks were not a safety issue. So, I'm totally confused?

A machinist who also can weld doesn't sound like a real welder who is capable of GTAW 100% welds.
your life, safety of others, and your entire home is not something that you should be trying to save a couple bucks with.

They probably determined from what you described to them that there's no way for fire/gasses to escape in to your living space... Which would make the stove safe to use.
Without seeing the stove I can't comment on that... But if you believe you accurately described the cracks to the rep, then I would be inclined to side with the rep.
 
Yeah Hass. Getting dead from secondary air manifolds that are completely contained inside the firebox is a real possibility. Yeah right. That post is one of those over the top ones I expect to see in a HVAC forum. Not here.

And I am the one that suggested he scrap the stove.

Edit: BB who has never dropped a hood but who spent eight years with a pressure vessel company and 18 years with refineries with welders having to sit on the other side of the desk and tell me how they did what they did so we didn't get somebody killed.
 
So three photos of the same crack. I get that the opposite side is the same so that's two cracks. Where are the other 2?

I owned a Lopi freedom bay insert. They are the type of stove that Lopi says that overfire is when something glows red or 800 and above sustained. Sis you make it glow?

Your air tube is also in the wrong orientation. The right one in the photo, it should face somewhat forward like the left one is doing and the pins are supposed to hold the angle.

Why not weld it. Some guy can shove a cheezy little wirefeed welder in there and zip them closed in no time flat. You've got nothing to lose, so what if it cracks again in a few years.

If you just want a new stove then get it, but those cracks are not in a critical place. Figure that if they cause a leak it will be just like the tubes an inch away with all the holes. I might even just schmear furnace cement over it to see what happens.

That's what I did. I bought my Freedom used and it had hairline cracks (not as large as the ones pictured). I forget the exact product, but the big box store had some fire rated crack filler "caulk" that was almost like a cement paste. I goobed it in the cracks and pressed it in with my fingers . . . been burning fine for the past year. This is a $2400 stove that I wouldn't replace over a few small cracks in the air bypass baffle.
 
We have similar cracks, talked w local dealer who told us the same as our Sweep, it's a slight loss of efficiency but not a safety issue. We plan, probably next spring, to have it pulled & sent off to be refurbished. It's been like that two seasons now, no issues.
 
I also have a Freedom insert and just checked for cracks in the same area while reloading. Looks good but definitely something I will check out when the stove is cold in the morning.
 
To me it looks like the angle iron is not sitting right, the burn tubes are not right. If the angle iron is not sitting right, the bricks and the baffle is not sitting right. Now you have over fire
 
It may have have been mentioned, but do you have a full liner? I often see odd problems in EPA stoves when no liner is installed. This comes from trying to force too much out of it. You know, never turning the air down, because all the heat is going up the flue.
 
I would have it welded if it were me. My brother is a master welder though. I agree that the weld should be the stronger than the adjacent material. If I were going to replace it, the easiest thing to do would be able to replace it with another Lopi insert just like now, Essentially no modification would be needed. There are a lot of great stoves out there though:)

I would burn above 500 to keep your chimney clean and the smoke gone. Keep it beloew 700 if you want to be conservative.
 
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