Harman Accentra - Desperate Help Needed

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sspenc

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Nov 18, 2012
12
Hi everyone,

Thank you in advance for all the help you've given my husband and I over the past two years. Yes, we've been trolling, and soaking up all your knowledge. And thank you for that.

We have a Harman Accentra 2, and have been fiddling with it for 6 hours so far today, and feel like we've tried EVERYTHING possible, and its still not working properly. We keep the stove super clean (thanks to your advice!). The stove came with our house when we bought it 3 years ago, and are now on our 3rd winter heating with the harman, and heat exclusively with it (burned 4 tons our first year, only 3 the second year).

Here is the problem... we went away for the weekend, so the stove burned through all the pellets (we use our oil furnace as back up while on vacation). When we got back, we tried to start the stove back up, and the distribution blower would not start up. It was late at night, figured we'd just mess with it in the morning. Morning came, and my husband cleaned everything he could in the stove, removed the distribution blower and checked it out. Replaced the distribution blower, and tried out the stove. This time (on test mode), the blower worked, but the auger did not. We went through check list after check list (scouring this forum) and ended up bypassing the vac sensor switch, which got the auger motor turning. We bought a new vac sensor switch (thinking the old one was bad) and replaced it. Still nothing. Please help! What's next?

We have not yet removed the auger motor, housing and auger itself, we're a bit intimidated by this, and not really sure if this would be the problem anyway. We have also considered the possibility that there is some type of air leak, and vacuum seal is not there, but don't know how to troubleshoot this. Thank you.
 
Door and hopper gasket check out OK? Fines box cover on properly and secured?
 
Door is ok. How do you check hopper gasket? Fines box was cleaned this morning and properly put back on and secured.

Fiddled around more, when we bypass (jump) the connection with the vac sensor switch, the auger motor moves (not the auger itself), but the combustion fan/blower does NOT move. We tried removing it to clean, but can't get it to budge.
 
I should add that the combustion blower fan does move freely... but not when powered through "test mode" while jumping the vac sensor switch.
 
Just give the hopper gasket a good visual once over. Check for gaps on the corners or deformed areas where perhaps a pellet was jammed. Make sure there's no debris on the mating surface on the lid.

The auger motor turns but not the auger? Uh oh. Old style?..chain broken? Is the bolt that holds the feeder cam block tight?
 
Hopper gasket appears to be fine. Husband says he checks and cleans it each time he fills with pellets.

The auger motor turns and the auger turns, but only when we bypass the pressure switch. The chain is fine, feeder cam fine. Our confusion now is that the combustion blower does not run (neither when turned on as regular or while bypassing the pressure switch). It moves freely when provoked, so is not stuck, but will not run under its own power. We understand if the combustion motor fails, the auger will not run. Have read about checking the fuses, but cannot find any info on how to do that.

If there were an air leak, wouldn't the combustion blower still run while bypassing the pressure switch?
 
I think if the fuse was popped, you wouldn't have anything.

The level 2 techs will hopefully chime in soon.
 
Ok, thanks for your help so far :)
Unless you did this just ignore.
Try this as it is easy to do just unplug your stove maybe its like mine and will go into a reset mode(board could be confused)and then restart it.
Results?
 
Unless you did this just ignore.
Try this as it is easy to do just unplug your stove maybe its like mine and will go into a reset mode(board could be confused)and then restart it.
Results?

Yes, tried this a number of times. Combustion blower still does not run, although moves freely when manipulated by hand. Auger only runs when in "test mode" and manually bypassing the vacuum sensor (pressure) switch. Vac switch was also replaced today (just in case). Distribution blower runs successfully no matter what. Have checked all electrical connections, fuses, everything is clean, all gaskets (that I know of) are sound.
 
although moves freely when manipulated by hand
Let`s try this:
Have you gotten the combustion motor to move under it`s own power?
Also has it ever been lubricated?
By bypassing it to a direct wire like this>>>
80925


Strip the ends and attach some connectors the opposite of the combustion motor load(feed) wire ,typically male is put on the plug but for safety reasons i put 2 female types to protect yourself from the male type.(as its unsafe if accidentally touched!);ex

I then make a pair off converted jumpers to convert it for desired application and go from there(depends on the type of connection i need)

Jumpers are good for bypassing things for testing.
Just remember before you plug it in LIVE make sure you wont short out or shock yourself.:ZZZ

ie: any cord such as an old computer or extension cord will work.

Spade connectors are avail. from hardware store, walmart ,ect just get same size.
 
If you have the same startup procedure as mine (there all pretty close sometimes even among different brands ) when turned on all fan style motors combustion/convection come on a full blast(test mode ) convection drops out combustion stays running while board senses vacuum and auger drops pellets in the burnpot, then after it fills up the self-igniter lights the pellets, flame commences heats up the stove kicking in the low temp/convection snap -disc activating the convection blower.(you feel the heat blowing)

Sound similar?
 
Direct power the combustion fan to see if it is still good. It
Has to run at full power to trip the pressure switch to engage both the auger and the igniter.
 
Thank you all for the help. We've reached exhaustion with this problem for the day, and unfortunately have a crazy week ahead. We'll have to rely on our furnace until we can have a chance to try your suggestions. Thank you so much for the ideas, we'll definitely try supplying power directly to the combustion blower when we get the next chance! Would there be any chance if we get the wires mixed up that we would short-circuit or damage anything? And I will be sure to update with our results. A few questions if anyone has a second, to expedite our next "fix it" session...

If the combustion blower DOES work, what would be the next step?

If the combustion blower DOESN'T work, is the next step to remove and replace it? Any tips on removal if that's what needs to be done (my husband tried briefly, but said the set screw on the blower fan blade seemed stuck, so he didn't try any further for risk of damaging something)?

Thank you again from both of us and have a great Thanksgiving :)
 
PB Blaster (catalyst penetrating oil) that screw. Should come off by the time you get to it. DON'T STRIP THE HEAD! ;)
 
Have you gotten the combustion motor to move under it`s own power?
Also has it ever been lubricated?
.

No, it has not moved under its own power. We have never lubricated it. When we touch it with our hand (both the front and back fan blades), it moves freely and easily.

What brand name is the motor for the combustion fan? Fasco by chance?
.

I checked quickly, but couldn't see a name anywhere, perhaps just didn't look close enough or in the right spot?
And, yes the start-up procedure you described is just what we normally experience as well, however, just the distribution blower turns on now in regular start-up mode (no auger or combustion blower). If we disconnect and bypass the connections to the vac sensor, the auger will turn on with the distribution blower, but still no combustion blower (weird). After everyone's suggestions here, my guess is the combustion blower motor is shot, but that's odd considering the fan blades still turn freely. We'll have to play with it further. Probably won't have time until next weekend :( Thanks for your help!
 
PB Blaster (catalyst penetrating oil) that screw. Should come off by the time you get to it. DON'T STRIP THE HEAD! ;)

Great suggestion... hubby probably has some in his shop, if not, we'll stop and get some tomorrow.
 
Head up to the Harman sticky at the top. All yer info on the motor is there. EDIT- Part #'s anyway.
 
if you were nearby, i would find time to stop by. but first, we need the approximate area of residence. i'm sure there's help in the vicinity.....
 
AC motor wont matter how you hook your test wire. Good luck
 
If the combustion blower DOESN'T work, is the next step to remove and replace it? Any tips on removal if that's what needs to be done (my husband tried briefly, but said the set screw on the blower fan blade seemed stuck, so he didn't try any further for risk of damaging something)?

You might be able to save it still!

No need to remove fan!

No, it has not moved under its own power. We have never lubricated it. When we touch it with our hand (both the front and back fan blades), it moves freely and easily.
They get bound up from lack of lube.
Worst case scenario is a little time spent cleaning and the purchase of a qt of oil.
Maybe a new one is in need?But try the cleaning/lube because you should do it yearly (min) anyway for maintenance

If you have an air compressor by all means blow out the dust dirt inside the (after removal & outside of course)motor then depending on the design there are oil ports on the motor but not all the time you can oil the sleeve type on the ends directly.
If no air compressor available maybe someone you know has one?


Now for what type of oil is the next question , I would highly recommend castrol synthetic syntec 5/50 weight motor oil ( yes motor oil) I Have used so called electric motor oils with poor results. About 3-5 drops at each port/end should be plenty every season minimum after proper air bath (dust gun ) cleaning.

An example of mine was a combustion motor in the past had been slowing down in RPM to a point where a had to push it w/small screwdriver to bump start it to get to run until the new one arrived at that time i was using specific electric motor oil (no not the 3in1 oil either) which did nothing.

IMG_1900 (640x360).jpg Similar type?









Anyway put a new motor in after 4 years of use from the previous one then decided to oil the new one right from the start with a oil that could take the heat ,well i found it and it is has given me any problems. luck?

Maybe load some photos of the defective motor when possible to give the proper advice?
 
Pull the motor out of the combustion housing to see if the fins are bent or jammed on the impeller. When you direct power the motor do you hear a hum from the motor? Yes - could be jammed, No - time to replace. You will need both the motor and the impeller blade.
 
Have you tried bypassing the hopper lid switch?

I don't believe we have a hopper lid switch, I think we have the vacuum pressure switch (sensor), and yes, we did bypass this. When bypassing this, the auger does start to work, but the combustion fan still fails.
 
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