OK guys, I have had a wood stove for about 3-4 years that has been sitting in my garage that I have finally decided to install. Last year I added an addition on to my home that is about 700 square feet. I ran all ductwork out to the new room and all for my heat pump, but the room stays colder than the rest of the house. Not to mention the outrageous additional cost of heating the house now. Anyhow. The stove seems like an older, but very well built unit. It appears to be a fisher, but does not carry a name on it. I am going to try to attach a picture for viewing. It needs some paint to dress up a bit, but has a nice appearance overall. I am also needing tips for installation. I am a pretty decent carpenter, actually built the addition myself, but have never installed a wood stove before. The 6" pipe opening is on the rear of this unit. I would like to install the unit in the corner of the room ( I am also attaching a picture of the room). Can you guys give me some tips for installation. My wife does not want the pipe going through the roof, so would it be possible to run the pipe straight out my wall and then have it tun up? Just want to make sure it would vent properly. My walls are drywall 1/2" insulated of course with plywood walls and vinyl siding on the outside. I really appreciate any help you guys can give. Been doing some research for the last week and there are absolutely no installers in my area. So it's gonna be a DIY job. Please help me do it right, but most importantly, safely. Here's the pics.
Help identify my stove and need tips to install
- Thread starter jmccown
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Sorry, can't help with IDing the stove. Is there any sort of identification on the stove? Is there a plate on the back? What part of the country is this?
As to the install, if at all possible, go straight up with the stack. Avoid an outside chimney if at all possible. The stove will run better, there will be much less problem with creosote buildup, and you will have a stack that will be able to run a wider variety of stoves in the future. If an outside chimney is the only choice, condsider enclosing it in an insulated chase.
Some caveats with this stove. it will need maximum clearances to combustibles and a well insulated, non-combustible hearth, it will not pass inspection, it will not pass insurance.
As to the install, if at all possible, go straight up with the stack. Avoid an outside chimney if at all possible. The stove will run better, there will be much less problem with creosote buildup, and you will have a stack that will be able to run a wider variety of stoves in the future. If an outside chimney is the only choice, condsider enclosing it in an insulated chase.
Some caveats with this stove. it will need maximum clearances to combustibles and a well insulated, non-combustible hearth, it will not pass inspection, it will not pass insurance.
In Ca you could never get a permit for that stove as Im sure it is not EPA or UL certified. And if you did install a stove in that corner the glass would have to be tempered. It does have the same trees on the door as my old Fisher in the shop. Perhaps a baby bear?
I am in Kentucky, and the stove was bought used from someone in Kentucky if that helps any. Only the stove will be caddy-cornered. I was thinking of going up a few feet and then outside with the piping going directly out on the back wall, not straight out the corner. The pipe would have a couple of curves in it. My walls are on 16" centers, so I'd just go between the studs if that is an approved method. I'm a noob at this. Lowe's sells a 'thru the wall' kit that is suppose to have everything needed to do this for something like $180 and it is double wall pipe. As for the hearth I am going to do something in stone with about a 1 or 2" rise off the laminate wood floor and maybe a stone backing. I have put my creative hat on in thinking this thing through.
Harley
Minister of Fire
Maybe its just the way the picture looks to me, but is the top of the stove warped? Any pictures of the inside?
No, the stove is in good condition overall. Top isn't warped or anything. It has some surface rust is all. It has fire bricks inside that look okay and a log rack. I'll try to take some pics this evening and repost for a better inspection. I want to make sure this thing is worthy of installing in my home before I invest any money in it. I vacuumed all of the ash out of it last night that has been in it for several years. Jeez is this thing ever heavy. Probably weights 300+ lbs.
Are you sure you want that stove in the house? The top has a bow direct indications it has beeen overfired also note it appears this may have broken the weld seal to the top the poctures look real suspiciuus. That stove will have to be 3' from any combustiable wall / wood window or wood window trim I will have to go into the NFPA211 for proper floor protection but your mentioned plans will not cut it. There is no provisions to prevent Thermal conductivity. And lastly I assume you are familliar with the building codes, all appliances have to be labled, listed, permittted, and inspected. In the case of wood stoves the listing agency is UL. You came to the right site to recieve correct code compliand help. welcome aboard
Not a Fisher but a cheap imitation knock off
Not a Fisher but a cheap imitation knock off
elkimmeg said:
Yea after I looked a 2nd time I realized that it just resembles a Fisher, no bird on the Fishers.
Another thought is that it is going to eat wood like mad.
I'm in the same bucket myself, I have a unidentifiable stove. After doing a lot of reading I decided to call my insurance, they said that, in my state, as long as I followed code a unlisted wood stove was allowable. I'd recommend you to call yours first off.
After that has been cleared up you can follow the info on the link below to get allowable clearances for an unlisted stove. Once again if you follow code all should be well.
https://www.hearth.com/articles/63_0_1_0_M1.html
Hope this helps some
After that has been cleared up you can follow the info on the link below to get allowable clearances for an unlisted stove. Once again if you follow code all should be well.
https://www.hearth.com/articles/63_0_1_0_M1.html
Hope this helps some
Here is another picture of the stove guys, not much better, but a different angle. Upon inspection I can't see where you guys see the top is warped. As for the location, sorry for the specifics. The backwall is the solid wall adjacent to the one with the window. The stove will be about 3' from the window. You guys got it right, I sure don't want to burn my house down if this thing isn't much. Like I said. I have had it sitting out in the garage for 3-4 years and it has never been used. I really appreciate everyone's help with this.
Here's another pic:
Here's another pic:
Floor and wall protection will be a biggie if you decide to burn the stove. That thin steel gonna throw off a bunch of heat fast. Frankly if I were to use that stove it would only be in a shop or some place like that with a concrete floor and three feet to the walls.
That said, if you do decide to burn with it do it gently. In that last picture I don't see anything that says the top is warped. I do not see much without the door open to tell it has ever been used. It is going to heat up fast so don't put much wood in it. It will be hard to control and if there isn't gasketing in that door it could become impossible to control with more than two or three small pieces of wood in it. I have burned in worse and lived to tell about it. Wouldn't do it again though.
It is better than:
That said, if you do decide to burn with it do it gently. In that last picture I don't see anything that says the top is warped. I do not see much without the door open to tell it has ever been used. It is going to heat up fast so don't put much wood in it. It will be hard to control and if there isn't gasketing in that door it could become impossible to control with more than two or three small pieces of wood in it. I have burned in worse and lived to tell about it. Wouldn't do it again though.
It is better than:
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Floor and wall protection will be a biggie if you decide to burn the stove. That thin steel gonna throw off a bunch of heat fast. Frankly if I were to use that stove it would only be in a shop or some place like that with a concrete floor and three feet to the walls.
That said, if you do decide to burn with it do it gently. In that last picture I don't see anything that says the top is warped. I do not see much without the door open to tell it has ever been used. It is going to heat up fast so don't put much wood in it. It will be hard to control and if there isn't gasketing in that door it could become impossible to control with more than two or three small pieces of wood in it. I have burned in worse and lived to tell about it. Wouldn't do it again though.
It is better than:
That said, if you do decide to burn with it do it gently. In that last picture I don't see anything that says the top is warped. I do not see much without the door open to tell it has ever been used. It is going to heat up fast so don't put much wood in it. It will be hard to control and if there isn't gasketing in that door it could become impossible to control with more than two or three small pieces of wood in it. I have burned in worse and lived to tell about it. Wouldn't do it again though.
It is better than:
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