Tell me about a Harman Invincible pellet stove insert...would you buy a used one for $500?

I have a 1993 Invincible T (free standing), that I bought almost 2 years ago non-working for $125. After researching these forums, talking to my local Harman dealer and emailing Harman directly, I concluded that the problem was likely a bad ESP probe (a small but pricey - $150 - temp sensor). After replacing this part the stove has worked great and I have been using it non-stop. It puts out lots of heat while using pellets sparingly, and isn't too fussy about the type of pellets it burns (unlike my Whitfield). On the negative side, it is a bit noisy (not an issue for me since it's in my basement) and weighs a ton (415 lbs to be exact).
I think the "T" became the "RS" sometime in the late 90's, and incorporated some design improvements including an all-electronic control board and simplified maintenance. I would definitely recommend this stove. Even if you had to spend another $500 to get it into working condition, you would be hard-pressed to find anything comparable for the same $$. Here's a link to a control board ($250):
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Harman_Circuit_Board_Control_Panel_p/1-00-06142.htm

I agree with Tim. I have had an Invincible insert for probably 13 years. Whenever I blamed the circuit board, it was always the ESP probe. You may want to check the distribution motor and the other motors for noise also. I like my insert, the disadvantage compared to a free standing stove is that it is harder to clean, since to do a full cleaning yoiu need to yank it out of the hearth, and they don't hold nearly as much pellets.

Seems pricey for a older non working stove. I bought mine for $400 working. It is a few years older then the one your looking at. Mine is heavy and is built like a tank.

I have had an Invincible RS for 15 years. It is an absolute workhorse and is one of the best stoves Harman ever made. I have replaced the circuit board twice and the combustion blower once. Never did an ESP. There can't be much more wrong with it than the CB or ESP. What I do remember is that the CB was about $125 5 years ago from my stove shop. If it's in good shape $500 isn't bad but I would try and talk them down. You'll need help moving it. As stated earlier it is a beast to move around.

We just restored an Invincible (serial # 00001997 - label on back of stove says "tested 1992" !). Had to replace two motors, & now it works, & looks, like new. I have another customer In CT that has one, & it's 20+ years old. Works like a charm. The only drawback to buying an older stove like this is there isn't automatic ignition. It won't turn on after it goes out (Room Temp setting). I think it's a nicer looking stove than some of the newer ones out there, so if you don't mind relighting it when it goes out, buy it.

Tim_M said:

I think the "T" became the "RS" sometime in the late 90's, and incorporated some design improvements including an all-electronic control board and simplified maintenance. I would definitely recommend this stove. Even if you had to spend another $500 to get it into working condition, you would be hard-pressed to find anything comparable for the same $$. Here's a link to a control board ($250):
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Harman_Circuit_Board_Control_Panel_p/1-00-06142.htm

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Tim_M
Are you saying this circuit board will work in the invincible T? I have had one for about three years and it has been working well until today. when it shut off i cleaned it thoroughly except for the esp which i will do before the night is over and when i fired it back up i noticed the auger motor will not stop running unless i turn the temperature dial back to 1 or 2.
I have had the stove running on stove temp and the temperature dial all the way up because the building i have is old and uninsulated so it basically needs to run at full blast all the time. i noticed this year that the stove was acting strange for the first time this winter. it would have a good flame going then just stop. i'd walk over to check it and poof it would light up again.

any imput would be appreciated.

I have an old Invincible insert 99 or so that has been upgraded to full auto ignition but still has all of the original motors, if the one you are looking at is newer than mine, snap it up, this is one of those stoves that could perhaps run forever..

smwilliamson said:

I have an old Invincible insert 99 or so that has been upgraded to full auto ignition but still has all of the original motors, if the one you are looking at is newer than mine, snap it up, this is one of those stoves that could perhaps run forever..

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Must have had another long day, Scott. The OP was just about a year ago.....

yup.....got in at 530 though, family went out to the library for a Star Wars Expo....I sat and watched Seal Team Six, ate leftover turkey soup, fell in and out of sleep and made this post.....

$500? heck yea, every day of the week!

Yancy Sagastume said:

Tim_M
Are you saying this circuit board will work in the invincible T? I have had one for about three years and it has been working well until today. when it shut off i cleaned it thoroughly except for the esp which i will do before the night is over and when i fired it back up i noticed the auger motor will not stop running unless i turn the temperature dial back to 1 or 2.
I have had the stove running on stove temp and the temperature dial all the way up because the building i have is old and uninsulated so it basically needs to run at full blast all the time. i noticed this year that the stove was acting strange for the first time this winter. it would have a good flame going then just stop. i'd walk over to check it and poof it would light up again.

any imput would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

If there are enough long pellets in the hopper, it bridges the opening, at the bottom of the hopper, that feeds into the auger. The pellets don't drop down at the correct rate, so the fire might die down. Then when the pellets shift a little, they start to feed at the correct rate, & the fire comes to life. When the fire dies down, stick a long screwdriver, or the scraper, into the bottom of the hopper. Stir it up, like soup. That usually breaks up the blockage.