Heritage Temps

I had a phone call from a nice gentleman today with the same issue. He was thinking of putting a damper into his piping ( I didn't have one in stock) as he was thinking that possibly the stove was getting too much air. His wood is split and stored in his garage for about a year or year and a half. Do you think putting the damper in would help him get more heat out of the stove?

Search for BrowningBar's post on getting his Heritage up to 600. Also look for Highbeam's posts about this stove. He's convinced it sends too much heat up the flue without a damper.

firecracker_77 said:

Now that it's cold, I'm really loading my stove with premium wood...oak

I have an infrared thermometer and do not climb above 360 dead center on the top. I have no idea how you ever get into an overfire with one of these. I can't get 400 to save my life. That's ok and all, but still. I want to run a little hotter than 360

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Where are the air controls when you are running it and what does the fire look like?

papa bears stove said:

I had a phone call from a nice gentleman today with the same issue. He was thinking of putting a damper into his piping ( I didn't have one in stock) as he was thinking that possibly the stove was getting too much air. His wood is split and stored in his garage for about a year or year and a half. Do you think putting the damper in would help him get more heat out of the stove?

Click to expand...

Worked for me. I could hit 600 regularly as the peak temp in the burn cycle.

Thank you for the help, much appreciated!!

firecracker_77 said:

Now that it's cold, I'm really loading my stove with premium wood...oak

I have an infrared thermometer and do not climb above 360 dead center on the top. I have no idea how you ever get into an overfire with one of these. I can't get 400 to save my life. That's ok and all, but still. I want to run a little hotter than 360

Click to expand...

What is the chimney/flue like? Height, size, insulated?

How do you KNOW the status of your wood? I have red oak in my pile going into it's 3rd year, still over 20% on a fresh split face.

How are you running the air? How are you loading the stove?

firecracker_77 said:

I always burn e/w if that means running the width of the stove. Fire looks good. Coals are doing really well. Wood is oak...no idea on moisture, just know it's not hissing or anything where moisture is bubbling out the ends. It is claimed to be over a year seasoned, but I buy wood so I can't verify other than it's not hissing and seems dryer than a freshly cut piece.

That damper may be the difference.

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Are you reloading on a big bed of coals?
What are your air controls at?
After the fire is roaring, what do you do with your air controls?

Even with wet wood you can still get those stoves over 500.

What is the fire doing at that point? or more importantly, what is it doing just before you start closing down?

What is your top temperature at the point you have the air closed all the way?

firecracker_77 said:

Air control is always fully closed after about 30 minutes following lighting or even less after reloading.

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How do you get to the point of the air controls being fully closed?

How do you get to the point of the air controls being fully closed?

firecracker_77 said:

I gradually dial back...usually full, then half, then fully closed. it's not from 100% to 0%

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Too much.

Fully open, let it roar. Then 65-75% open. Then 50-ish%, Then a little more. Then a little more. You keep going until the fire movement has slowed but robust looking. Fully closed does not always work, especially with less than perfect wood.

You could try not starting to dial back until the stove top has reached +300. I know with both of my Hearthstones, they don't/didn't climb very much after I shut the air down, and at 200-250 degree top, I doubt you have enough fire box heat to get a good secondary burn...

I usually let my air run wide open until most/all the wood is "involved" pretty well, top will be 350-400 or so, then start airing down. I honestly go to about 50% on the the first step, but I have crazy draft. (26' of triple wall in an insulated chase, I actually have blocked off about 2/3rds of the secondary air holes with sheet metal and magnets) Then down to "zero" in 3 or so more adjustments, just watching to make sure I don't stall the secondaries. Then she will rise a bit, and cruise for several hours before starting down.. If I let it climb higher before airing down, it will cruise at near whatever temp I started airing down at. I have had it run at 550-600 for several hours on a FULL load of good oak, but it made the house about 80.. she liked it. lol

firecracker_77 said:

I thought the key was to trap the heat, not send it up the flue.

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The key is to keep the heat in the stove AND keep the temps high. Cutting down too much at one point will chock down the ability to produce heat.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/getting-a-hearthstone-up-to-600°.76166/