quadrafire 1900 door question

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tonyg

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Dec 16, 2006
16
i have had a quadrafire 1900 woodstove for about 5 years now. the door doesn't close quite as tight as it ought to......you can the fire burning through a very fine crack near the top above the handle where it doesn't quite seal as tight as it should. i can't seem to figure out how to tighten the handle which i believe would fix the problem. my dealer of course would like to sell me a new door assembly, but i'm not sure it is necessary. there is some amount of wiggle to the door handle. thanks for any help you might have to offer. tonyg
 
no. that was the other thing that occurred to me. the gasket looks in good shape, but seems like it may have be flattened or compressed with usage. how do i determine if this is the problem? if it is, how difficult a job is it to replace it? thanks for your help....tonyg
 
Its easy, it should be replaced every season or every other season depending on use. 3/4 rutland rope gasket will do the trick. Dont forget the cement.
 
i guess since my stove is 5 yrs. old and is going all winter, it's overdue! i didn't realize they needed replacing that frequently, as it's the first "store-bought" airtight stove i've ever had. i've been burning wood for over 35 yrs. but always had barrel-type stoves which were never quite airtight anyway. are there any tricks i ought to know in regards to removing the old gasket and cleaning up the old cement? thanks again, and by the way......this is a GREAT forem!! tonyg
 
tonyg said:
i guess since my stove is 5 yrs. old and is going all winter, it's overdue! i didn't realize they needed replacing that frequently, as it's the first "store-bought" airtight stove i've ever had. i've been burning wood for over 35 yrs. but always had barrel-type stoves which were never quite airtight anyway. are there any tricks i ought to know in regards to removing the old gasket and cleaning up the old cement? thanks again, and by the way......this is a GREAT forem!! tonyg


After you pull the old gasket out of the channel, if it is in a channel in the door, a small wire brush wheel chucked into a drill is the easiest way to get the old cement material out of the channel. When you apply the new cement to install the new gasket don't over do it on the cement. Put just enough in the bottom of the channel to secure the new gasket when you push it in. If you use too much it will permeate the gasket and make it harden too soon, as well as being messy. As to measuring the new gasket, measure the old one and cut the new one an inch or so too long. Start putting the gasket in the channel at the center of the hinge side of the door and proceed to lay it in, without stretching it, until you arrive back around where you began. Then cut the end off just a tad longer than needed so you can mesh the ends together.

Let the cement set up for an hour or so and then put the door back on and fire up the stove to cure the gasket cement.
 
replaced the gasket tonight.....all went well and the door closes nice and firm again. the only surprise was i expected the old adhesive to be dry and flakey, but it was still very flexible (kind of a strange reddish color) and the screwdriver wouldn't remove it. the wire wheel on the drill did the trick. thanks again for your help.....tonyg
 
tonyg said:
replaced the gasket tonight.....all went well and the door closes nice and firm again. the only surprise was i expected the old adhesive to be dry and flakey, but it was still very flexible (kind of a strange reddish color) and the screwdriver wouldn't remove it. the wire wheel on the drill did the trick. thanks again for your help.....tonyg

Glad ya got it fixed. The reddish stuff is RTV silicone. The wire wheel is about the only way I know to get that stuff off.
 
speaking of 1900 doors.

Mountain stove guy, you never called me back?

do you have the door(s) for sale?
 
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