Scored a log splitter!

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I've been seeing excellent results from a good long soak in carburetor cleaner. The old school kind in a paint can with a dipping basket. I disassemble the carb as far as practical and soak it overnight. Carburetors with built-in plastic/rubber parts need not apply.
 
The stink of that stuff sticks on you like chit on a hog.

7-8 years ago now I rebuilt a carb on a Toyota FJ40 and flew to Maine for Christmas a day or two later. I barely had a chance to step in the door at my parent's place and my Dad was complaining to high heaven how I stinked of carb dip.
No idea how that worked out, I didn't even have my work clothes with me, let alone on.

I later found that CLR cleaner works better (and doesn't stink so bad!)

I've been seeing excellent results from a good long soak in carburetor cleaner. The old school kind in a paint can with a dipping basket. I disassemble the carb as far as practical and soak it overnight. Carburetors with built-in plastic/rubber parts need not apply.
 
Exactly what I was going to suggest as well. That cylinder doesn't look that bad.

I'd take a piece of scotchbrite to the cylinder rod and see if the pitting smooths out. If it does, I'd run it as is until it leaks.
 
Walbro LMT carbs are pretty popular.

The date code on the engine will matter. Briggs Part #'s as follows:

498838 - Carburetor | (LMT 119) Used After Code Date 97052500 Used Before Code Date 98032300
690119 - Carburetor | Used After Code Date 98032200

Early carb is roughly $136 and the later carb is roughly $100.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com

This link may or may not work - Link to your specific engine/carburetor IPL

Yeah, buying a new carb just does not make financial sense for this motor. I have been calling around locally to find a used one, but no go so far. The date code on the engine is 990224YD, so I guess that would make it the 690119 carb part number.

I will try to get the screw extractor out tonight. After I broke it off, I was so made I just decided to call it a night before I fixed it with a 3lb hammer.

If anyone could look around locally, I would pay you for the carb and your time. I don't want to jump ship on this motor yet, because I have already put some money into replacing some parts already.
 
Just a thought but a bit of heat (not a lot, it's cast aluminum we're working with here, and make sure the carb is dry! _g ) might free that jet. Sometimes they are held in with a thread-locking compound (have only seen that a couple times) that the heat will loosen up.
 
MasterMech, I actually had a propane torch on the carb as I was trying to break the jet free. If I can get the extractor out, my next plan is to drill out the jet as much as I can and see if it will break free.
 
MasterMech, I actually had a propane torch on the carb as I was trying to break the jet free. If I can get the extractor out, my next plan is to drill out the jet as much as I can and see if it will break free.

Left-Hand twist drill sized just big enough to slip through the stem. ;) Lefty bits are worth their weight in gold for this kind of stuff.
 
Left-Hand twist drill sized just big enough to slip through the stem. ;) Lefty bits are worth their weight in gold for this kind of stuff.

Yeah, a few of the guys I work with have them. I might just pick up a cheap set to have around. Harbor Freight has set for $10. If it works on this carb, it will have more than payed for itself.
 
Not knocking the solvent bucket route for a one time/occasional use.

I've had awesome results with a heated ultrasonic cleaner and solvent free degreaser/water mix.
Won't destroy plastic carbs, but the heat will mush any gaskets.
 
Not knocking the solvent bucket route for a one time/occasional use.

I've had awesome results with a heated ultrasonic cleaner and solvent free degreaser/water mix.
Won't destroy plastic carbs, but the heat will mush any gaskets.

Yeah, I don't have anything that fancy. ;)
 
That's on my x-mas list. (My family just rolls their eyes. :rolleyes:)
If you're getting back into the small engine repair - carburators being probably 80% of the engine related repairs, they can't be beat
 
Well, now I am definitely on the hunt for a new carb. I could not get the screw extractor out for anything, so I took the hacksaw to it. Sigh. Oh well.
 
If you can't fix it make sure no one else can;)
 
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;lol I gotta ask. How did you figure that you were going to fix a carb with a hacksaw?;lol

Jags, I was beyond the "fixing" mindset at that point. That freaking jet was coming out, one way or another.
 
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So, does anyone know how interchangeable the Walbro carbs are? Mine has a "50" stamped on it. Will one with a "49" work?
 
So, does anyone know how interchangeable the Walbro carbs are? Mine has a "50" stamped on it. Will one with a "49" work?
Walbro built a ton of carbs and Briggs built a chitload of those 8 HP flatheads. You shouldn't have much trouble locating a replacement.

Hard to tell by the stampings but you really only need the proper jet sizes and bolt pattern to make it work. Everything else can be hacked together if need be.
 
Alright, after much looking and a bunch of phone calls I have finally found a used carb! It is a little different than the original, but I can make it work. The throttle lever piece is a bit different, but nothing a socket head cap screw and a couple of lock nuts could not take care of. It runs, but it runs rough. I need to tune the carb a little bit and then we will be splitting wood!
 
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