PE Pacific Insert. Air control problems and cracks.

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nwctjeff

Member
May 4, 2008
36
nw connecticut
Maybe this has been brought up before, but I learned something new this year and thought it was worth sharing. I am starting my 4th season with a pacific insert and noticed, starting last year, a progressively hard time regulating the air flow. I would notice the flames were "livelier" than previous seasons with the control lever fully closed. I replaced the door gasket and double checked the gasket for proper sealing using the dollar bill trick. Everything seemed ok. After reading about these units and cracks people are experiencing, I looked at mine. I did found both front upper corner welds of the firebox cracked. I went to my dealer and explained what was happening. They were quick to say "overfiring" which I expected. After talking further with them, I finally found the reason for the overfiring condition.

There is a rectangular gasket at the backside of the baffle plate that had disappeared after the baffle was removed and installed for regular chimney cleanings. I was having this done by a professional chimney cleaner and never new about this gasket. After replacing the gasket, I immediately noticed a different reacting fire that could be controlled with the damper lever once again.

I also bought an infared thermometer to confirm proper temperatures using the dealer recommended location (left front of stove above the door opening). I am now running 525- 570 peak temps when checked. The dealer said running up to 600 degrees in this area is fine.

As far as the cracks are concerned, pictures were forwarded to Pacific Energy and they have offer reimbursement cost of repairs.

Yes, I still am very happy with my PE insert.
 
You can also try make an alternative type of baffle gasket using Roxul insulation. Here is the thread I posted that explains how: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/alternative-dyi-baffle-gasket-replacement-for-a-pe.93332/

I am sorry to hear about the cracks. I would try to pursue a firebox replacement, as most of the repaired welds do not hold. Check the rim of firebox door frame etc. with a bright light. I didn't see a crack on the rim of my Pacific until the flash of my camera exposed it in a picture I took.
 
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I'm sorry, but I find it hard to believe the baffle gasket let to any additional air and over firing.
There are holes in the back of the baffle and those along the bottom and front also. The baffle does not regulate or stop any of the flow to any of those ports/holes.
The baffle gasket is not going to cause over firing. All it will do if bad or missing is allow a little more secondary flow leakage at the back where the baffle lays over the vertical channel.
And there is some secondary back there anyways due to the ports in the bottom of the baffle under that j bend.
 
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I'm sorry, but I find it hard to believe the baffle gasket let to any additional air and over firing.
There are holes in the back of the baffle and those along the bottom and front also. The baffle does not regulate or stop any of the flow to any of those ports/holes.
The baffle gasket is not going to cause over firing. All it will do if bad or missing is allow a little more secondary flow leakage at the back where the baffle lays over the vertical channel.
And there is some secondary back there anyways due to the ports in the bottom of the baffle under that j bend.

Ditto. The OEM gasket is crap, but would not cause an overfire
 
Ditto. The OEM gasket is crap, but would not cause an overfire
Guys, I am no expert on these things for sure! All I can say is that this is replacing the gasket is the only thing that has changed! The fire now reacts totally different and is controlable. I am still using the same wood and made no other adjustments. I did not have temp readings before the gasket replacement.

Just trying to pass info on to other people about my experience.
 
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