summit ramble on and on discussion thread

1. I run the fan high when the stove is hot and I want to spread the heat through the house. Once I have the house temps where the boss likes them, I run the fan around half speed (and the fire damped down quite a bit). The fan is set pretty low at night to help extend the burn.

2. I had insulation between the surround and brick when I first installed. I removed the insulation when I had the stove pulled out a bit while installing a block off plate. I wouldn't say I saw a significant difference, but I'm beginning to think maybe pulling that insulation "seal" has caused the insert to burn more inside air. It just feels like I feel more cold air movement along the floor than I remember feeling last year. I plan to put the insulation seal back to confirm.

3. The plate inside the door appears to be fine on mine.

4. I have been chasing an occasional rattle. It seems to be coming from the top area of the stove, behind the surround. I've ruled out the surround. Comes and goes... changing the fan speed will stop it for awhile, but it'll come back later as the temp changes. It's got to be a combination of vibration from the fan and expansion / contraction of metal to get just the right conditions. Finally took the top surround off so I can start touching off on areas to see if I can track it down. Curious if anyone else has been dealing with this?

Steve

I am very happy with my summit. I run the blower on medium all the time with the stove face temps getting up to 550* .

As for the boost manifold, mine did warp. It happened the first season I had the stove, I called the dealer and they sent me a new one. If memory serves me correctly, i have read this happening to others here as well.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/summit-t6-boost-maniflold.26806/#post-408731

I do get an occasional rattle as well, but mine is the surround. If I just go and push it to one side or the other it will stop. I have been meaning to get some insulation and stuffing it behind there but have not gotten around to it.

Do you guys turn your air all the way to low once the fire gets going?

shredd_guy said:

Hello, its been a while since my last post. I have seen this on similar forums so i thought i would try it here...

I have a Pacific energy Summit, it works like a million bucks but i do have the accaisional question and i would like to what other summit owners think about them. So this thread is an opendiscussion on the use of said wood burner.

1st. how do you guys run your fans? I have been starting to run mine at lower speeds it seems like it prolongs the 2ndary burn.

2nd my suround isnt sealed against the brick so i was wondering if i am getting room air sucked into the combustion chamber. I would imagine i am to some degree. when i go feel the OAK i feel and see air going in the house but i was redading my manual and they recomended sealing the suround to make sure. anybody else?

3rd has any one elses plate that sits right inside the door warped at all?

thats all for now.

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1.Fan running on high when burning 24/7, turned down only when loading or scooping ash.
2. Dont' have an OAK hooked up, and sealing the shroud ain't gonna do diddly anyways. Any air it's taking from the home is through the grille on the right side(left side when standing in front looking directly at the front of the insert) where the knock out is in the casing. Sealing was only necessary when it was hooked up slammer style if I remember correctly.
3. Your speaking of the boost manifold, and there was a year or so they made them a tad too long/tight and they warped due to expansion. Trim about 1/8" to 1/4" off the end and you'll be fine. To get real technical, trim equal amounts off each end to keep the holes in line with the holes behind.

The Summit insert when installed with the OAK knockout removed has major problems...
You will find many openings which connect your outside air with your interior air. Just about the worst way to design a stove.
The biggest are the 2 holes (about 5"x 2") which I assume are designed as lift points for installation. Look at the air passage on the top of the stove on the left and right sides against the rear face. These need to be sealed. The whole bottom, sides, and air lever also need to be sealed.
Without these mods, it is not functioning as an OAK; it is a draft creator. Maybe this has been fix on the new replacement Summit.
Otherwise, it's a good stove if it does not crack.

I run the stove fan on medium to almost full depending on how hot the fire is.

The knock out on the side casing is for inside air. Mine does not have 2 holes on it anywhere like you describe. It came with 2 handles that hook onto the back of the insert, which are removed before installation.
As far as a draft, the insert does not pull that much air to make it noticeable here. With the air shut down, the insert does not draw a lot of air. The only draft I feel is from the blower sucking cooler air along the floor towards the stove. That you will have in any insert with a blower running, OAK or no OAK.

shredd_guy said:

Thanks all for the input. I have had the cook top rattle a bit but never enough to actually get a screw driver. Where do you guys use your thermometer. i have never used one but I have been curious about where the heck i would stick it.

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Good question, especially with the insert.

I have mine right above the door on the right hand side. Usually says about 550*F when cruising.

I get the rattle also...It does seem to be on the trim for the surround...As for thermos, one on the left top below the ledg and the right blow the ledge....Just be sure it clears the door when you have it open..

I have 2 one above each door corner on the face of the insert.

Hogwildz said:

I have 2 one above each door corner on the face of the insert.View attachment 87641

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YUPS!!

Wowza Hog, and they both have matching temp readings...

PS: I think you could fit another split in the bottom left. Must be one of those single digit overnights.

holly cow, no way I could put that much wood in, would roast us! Tim

tim1 said:

holly cow, no way I could put that much wood in, would roast us! Tim

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Looks about right, colder than hell right now.

The thermos on mine are Rutland's. I had a bad experience with gasket cement, and have been using silicone to attach my door gaskets.
My original gasket never sealed real well, so one year I changed the gasket a couple times, the next I used a larger gasket.
I went back to the OEM 7/8" flat graphite coated gasket. Make sure you get the right gasket, size, type, density etc.
Silicone for me, is much easier to apply, holds great and have had no issues with. Preparation & cleaning the surface is key.
If it is just a corner coming loose, I would pump some silicone caulk back in there and be done with it. You will have to close the stove and let the silicone cure. I think I waited 24 hours.

Any silicone that may ooze out from behind the basket will burn off, but the stuff behind the gasket will be fine, as it is protected by the gasket. I have changed my gasket more times than I needed to. Had to learn when to leave well enough alone.

shredd-guy, I am heating a 1922 stick house maybe 1500 square feet of upstairs and downstairs with air tube mover. Old drafty with updates here and there. I know this is a bit more stove than needed, but after reading this forum, decided to go big and use smaller fires if needed and is needed so far. I love this stove as I have rebuilt most of it. Got it out of an old shed in Northern California, friends say I am nuts. Yea, nutty about saving about a third less wood. Tim