Progress Hybrid - Shielded Cooktop and screen - diff stove

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I think if you start mixing in one or two of your bigger beech splits in your loads you'll see a nice improvement. If you start splitting everything bigger and mix a couple in, maybe you'll have decades of toothpicks instead of just years. ;)
 
That's a good idea. I'm staring at years worth of huge oak splits that won't be ready for a couple years but the Beech seasons quick and I think is ready.
 
I'm thinking that split size has a lot to do with it too... I'll have to post my stove load and let you see my 'toothpicks' in there. I don't think it made nearly the difference with the FV, but then again I didn't burn large splits in there either much :)
 
Yup, I think we've (mostly) solved the mystery. It really makes sense too and I've noticed it myself but for some reason it didn't pop into my head when we went off on this tangent. Split size it is!

I would guess that split size wouldn't make as big of a difference in the Fireview. With the Progress, your going to get a lot of outgassing with the smaller splits which is going to make the secondaries take over.

I should note that I used to try and run cat only by turning things down fast. I had success doing it too with these smaller loads. I have since learned to not worry about the secondaries taking off at all. It doesn't affect burn times very much and they're sweet to watch. This is with large splits though, which I think really keep the secondaries in check to where they'll lightly burn for a while then the stove will go dark, then they'll lightly burn for a while, etc.

I woke up a couple weeks ago and thought that I was having an electrical issue because there was a weird flickering light coming from the living room. Turns out, it was just some nice secondaries kicking in. This was like 8 hours after loading the stove! The stove was completely dark when I went to bed. I believe the stove was just working as advertised: switching back and forth between cat and secondaries based on conditions in the firebox.
 
Now we need HollowHill to chime in and remind us what size splits she has. HH says her burn times are on the low side.

Waulie I think you are right, the Fireview was more forgiving of split size - which is why I have 3 years of toothpicks stacked outside.

I agree that the secondaries eat into the larger splits to a much lesser degree than the smaller ones. The larger surface area of the smaller splits outgas faster. I will try to get a picture of my splits so you can have a good laugh. But I really don't get that bad of a burn time, its just not as good as Waulie and Rideau's.
 
HollowHill has definitely mentioned that larger splits work better but I can't remember which thread. I think her burn times make sense. She's said would have coals after 12 hours but is always reloading before that. After all, she is "heating a really, really large house and all the outside too" or something like that. I've got to believe based on her descriptions that she has at least twice the heat loss I do. No single stove is probably going to produce enough heat for her to run 12 hour loads. Maybe a King or another huge stove. Maybe. Now I can't remember who else was heating a huge, drafty farmhouse with just the Progress. Was it Flamestead maybe? Anyway, all bets are off in those circumstances. Their benefit of running the PH is not going to be burn times, but getting more heat from less wood (and of course they look pretty nice too).
 
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Yup, you nailed it, Waulie. I need the heat more than the burn times for sure. Insulation will come, hopefully, and until then, it will be nice to be warm and not hemorrhaging money to the oil man. And I do load as many big splits as I can fit in. I used to just do a couple and then smaller, but now I do as big and as many as I can. That seems to work best for me and my situation.
 
I'm going to have to start splitting larger for sure... of course I have about 10-11 cords of already split wood that is much smaller at the moment... Oh well! Eventually I'll get to the new stuff and at least it is a bit less work to split the larger ones as it will be fewer wacks. Then again, they will be a bit heavier and so the kids may complain when I get them to help move and stack the wood, ha!
 
My new screen is deforming and the farthest clip from the door has come off twice now. It is currently lost in the ash. I made sure it was installed correctly after the first time it came off. Is anybody else seeing this with their new screen? I'll have to sift through the ashes in the morning to see if I can find it. I may try to install a washer above the clip to push the screen back up so it hits the "ceiling".
 
Yup, I have seen it and I know many others have too. My screen took quite a while to deform but then it did. My clips have always held fine though. Just take the screen off and give it a little bend so it will once again fit tight against the top.
 
Yup, I have seen it and I know many others have too. My screen took quite a while to deform but then it did. My clips have always held fine though. Just take the screen off and give it a little bend so it will once again fit tight against the top.
 
Oops, I was too quick. I cleaned the stove ash out this morning, found the clip and reinstalled it. Fire is burning nicely. I'll give the screen a quick bend in a couple days when I let it burn down again. Continued cold in Iowa....
 
I think the adhesive comes in a small plastic bottle and says "heat safe gasket glue" - that's what I got with my cooktop.

The big calk tube with gray gritty stuff is furnace cement. That stuff is neat, it's soapstone dust mixed with furnace cement and is really sticky.

Quick question about the cement. I bought the PH this past spring, and received the 1st version cooktop later on. Am I supposed to cement the gasket? It's the orginal gasket as it came from the factory, I think it's just held in plase by the cooktop. They didn't send any cement or instructions that said it needed to be cemented in place. Also, is there a reason that they changed the cooktop to have shielding now? Just making sure that I'm not doing something wrong. :)
 
Quick question about the cement. I bought the PH this past spring, and received the 1st version cooktop later on. Am I supposed to cement the gasket? It's the orginal gasket as it came from the factory, I think it's just held in plase by the cooktop. They didn't send any cement or instructions that said it needed to be cemented in place. Also, is there a reason that they changed the cooktop to have shielding now? Just making sure that I'm not doing something wrong. :)

When I received the first version of the cook top they sent a replacement gasket to go under the cooktop. The instructions said that if your original gasket was worn to replace it. I did replace mine, but I didn't need to. The original is cemented in place from the bottom in the channel. I'd say if you're not having any issues to just roll with it like it is.

They switched to a shielded cooktop because some folks were cracking the cooktop. Mine hasn't cracked yet. I'm still running the original unsheilded design and have been all winter. I would just keep an eye on it but personally I don't see any reason to switch unless it does crack.
 
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Thank you, Waulie, I appreciate it. I'll definitely keep an eye on my cooktop, I find it odd that some of them cracked, I wonder why? Maybe they were running them at higher temps than I do.
 
No. Mine creacked, stovetop was not over 300s. Not fun when it cracks and splits open 1/4 inch...sounds like a rifle shot. The dog loved it about as much as I did.
 
No. Mine creacked, stovetop was not over 300s. Not fun when it cracks and splits open 1/4 inch...sounds like a rifle shot. The dog loved it about as much as I did.

So how did the rest of that burn go? i.e. did smoke spill out or anything?
 
So how did the rest of that burn go? i.e. did smoke spill out or anything?
No smoke. I lowered the soapstone immediately, so the cast cooktop was concealed. Shut the air completely, let the stove burn down in a low cat burn.

Ordered a new cooktop from Woodstock (shielded) as well as new gasket for the cat. Waited until the new cooktop came to burn again. When it did, took the cat out to wrap with the new gasket, only to find th cat warped badly along one side. I'm suspected it happened during that fire with the cracked cooktop, but don't know.

Put my old, hard to light off, cat back in (I had cleaned it in vinegar when I removed it and replaced with the new cat), and it has been working fine. Woodstock is sending me a new cat, and I am sending the warped one back to them for study.
 
No. Mine creacked, stovetop was not over 300s. Not fun when it cracks and splits open 1/4 inch...sounds like a rifle shot. The dog loved it about as much as I did.

Holy smokes! I had no idea it would do that!Was it the first run with the cooktop? I'm a little nervous that mine will do the same. Has this happened to a lot of folks?
 
Holy smokes! I had no idea it would do that!Was it the first run with the cooktop? I'm a little nervous that mine will do the same. Has this happened to a lot of folks?
No, not my first use by a long shot. I do all my cooking on the cooktop. Don't be too nervous about using it.

I knew that HollowHill had her cooktop split, and so was a bit leary, and being careful not to add fuel to a good fire, which is what she had done, immediately before hers split. I don't think her stove was very hot either.

My theory is that both our stoves just had a rapid elevation in temperature in a very short time, as opposed to reaching any particular temperature. I was trying (unsuccessfully) to avoid that, after HollowHill's experience.

My son was not at all surprised about HollowHill's cracking, when I told him. He had installed my stove for me, and he said that the cooktop had way too much exposed surface to be able to take the rapid heating and expansion without cracking, because of the surface area the flanges on the bottom add to the cast iron cooktop lower surface.

So, my advice is not to start your fires with lots of little pieces, and to use caution in the rapidity with which you start your fire. Take a little longer to get the fire to cat temp, and close the air down rapidly in the process, just maintaining a good fire. I never leave the air fully open; close to about 1/2 as soon as I close the door, then very soon to 1/4, then on down slowly. If I want a hotter burn, I OPEN it again, AFTER the stove has already heated to about 325 soapstone top temp.

If your cooktop does crack, just cover it with the soapstone top (in other words, keep the cooktop covered). And, if you are leaving the stove unattended and have been cooking and have the cooktop exposed, close the soapstone over it before going to bed or leaving your home. Then, if the cast cooktop were to crack, it would be covered.

I don't think it will crack it that kind of situation. I really think it is only at the beginning of a burn.

That makes me think...I'm going to write to the PH owner whose PH overfired Sunday. If his cooktop is fine, that would supposrt my theory...unless he has a newer, shielded cooktop.
 
Thank you for the advice, Rideau. I'll definitely keep those tips in mind. It's pretty much what I do, I haven't used my cooktop for cooking, yet. I was thinking about doing a stew or soup.
 
My cooktop was cracked as well; however I'm not certain but it may have been cracked when I received it. I had noticed it a few days after installing it the first time I lifted the soapstone to put something on it, there was a big crack staring right at me!
I've replaced the door gasket twice ( on 3rd set now) with no change in the smoke smell. The smoke smell always starts after engaging the draft, and goes away as the fire starts to burn down; I'll guess after 3 hours. I can not determine if it comes from the door or just above it. I wish I could figure it out!
 
My cooktop was cracked as well; however I'm not certain but it may have been cracked when I received it. I had noticed it a few days after installing it the first time I lifted the soapstone to put something on it, there was a big crack staring right at me!
I've replaced the door gasket twice ( on 3rd set now) with no change in the smoke smell. The smoke smell always starts after engaging the draft, and goes away as the fire starts to burn down; I'll guess after 3 hours. I can not determine if it comes from the door or just above it. I wish I could figure it out!

Send an IM to Binko. He has a gasket replacement procedure that he swears by. He uses two gaskets of different material. Good luck!
 
I dont believe the smoke smell is coming from the door gasket. Seems to be coming from where the door frame meets the top plate, not the cook top gasket. In our application, the smell goes away by cracking the air open just a touch. We dont get the smell when the secondaries are firing, only when in 100% cat mode
 
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