VC Winterwarm Operating Questions, help needed.

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hydes2004

Member
Dec 28, 2012
153
Rhode Island
I have a few question regarding my VC Winterwarm Large.

Just a little background info.... The stove is currently installed in my masonry fireplace with a 10" oval SS pipe that runs up to the first flue tile, there is also a block off plate installed. In the near future I will be purchasing a Flex King Pro 8"x15' liner kit. I will be insulation around the pipe at the Terra Cotta, and also above the custom block off plate I will be fabricating with Roxul.

My questions are:

I purchased a Condor Inferno stove temp thermometer that I am going to put on the inserts door. What is the optimal burn temp for this model stove?

I am going to replace the refractory element, as well as a new catalytic element for peace of mind. Where is the least expensive place to buy these parts, and does anyone have any experience replacing them.

If i install the Condor catalytic probe, how would I run the thermocouple wire to the display and is it even worth it?

When doing an overnight burn with the damper closed and catalyst active, is it OK if the fire goes out?


Thanks again,
Kenny
 
Im using the condor stove top thermometer. Meter shows 450 temp for the stove. My living room has 2 fans running, one pushing cool air from the kitchen, the other pushing warm air out of the living room. Its 91 in here and 83 on the opposite side of the house. Granted my house is only 960sq feet not including the basement and its 40 degrees out, but I think she is doing a good job.
 

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Someone will come along soon who is familiar with your stove and can answer your questions.

Welcome.

It certainly sounds as if you are warm enough.:)
 
The winterwarm is a nice stove, had one for 8 years.
I did not have a stove top therm for mine, but did have the catalytic probe. I routed the the wire inside the sheet metal shell out the grate on the right side of the stove, it seemed to work well.
Bought parts from the local dealer, did not shop around a lot. The damper assembly is a pain to take in and out, it is very heavy and is hard to hold in place while starting the bolts. I recommend that you not take it out if you do not have too! If you replace the catalyst, go with the steel cat from Condar, it is less brittle after firing than a ceramic combustor. Would recommend getting the catalytic probe as the cat temps can get very high right after reloading. Watch for leaking gaskets around the door, I was constantly fighting this problem.
As for the fire going out, make sure the wood it completely charred before engaging the cat, and you should not have a problem.
It is a nice looking stove and did a great job heating, just watch it for air leaks and backpuffing. I replaced mine because it was time for a rebuild and the cost was almost as much as a new stove.
Good luck!
 
You will have to replace the door gasket, to do so install the new door gasket temporarily using small pieces of masking tape and use the dollar bill test on the different areas of the door (sides, bottom, and top). You can stretch or bunch up the gasket in different areas to achieve the proper fit. If it is still too loose in one area, you can put small pieces of a smaller gasket underneath the main gasket to try to raise it. The door is a difficult area to get a proper seal, just take your time and work slowly around the perimeter; you should be able to get a decent seal. Once the fit is OK, use stove gasket cement to cement the new gasket in.
 
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