Did you remove the Exhaust Blower and clean all the ash from the blower and the chamber the blower goes into?
Hudson River WestPoint Control Panel
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Did you remove the Exhaust Blower and clean all the ash from the blower and the chamber the blower goes into?
I didn't remove the blower this stove is new to me this season and was like new when I received it. I had to turn the stove back on it was getting cold in here I will try that tomorrow. I doubt it's plugged up in there. Any other ideas what would cause this?
I removed the blower and there was nothing in there just normal sut covered walls. I think it's sucking air it's not supposed to. Does this sound correct to any one? Does any one know where I should look. Both gaskets around the main door and the ash tray door look fine and barely worn the glass is not cracked.
Hello
A weak exhaust blower may also be the problem. Make sure the fire box door is shut tight, sometimes the handle can be loose. Also a bad or flakey Hi Limit switch can mess things up. Ask Doocrew about that! The upgraded panel does not turn the heat level light on right away when the pwr button is pressed. That is how it should work. With the bad high limit switch the heat level light was coming on right away and the stove was not working right! You can jump it out to test it.
A weak exhaust blower may also be the problem. Make sure the fire box door is shut tight, sometimes the handle can be loose. Also a bad or flakey Hi Limit switch can mess things up. Ask Doocrew about that! The upgraded panel does not turn the heat level light on right away when the pwr button is pressed. That is how it should work. With the bad high limit switch the heat level light was coming on right away and the stove was not working right! You can jump it out to test it.
You can put an AC Line cord on it but still hard to tell sometimes. Did you check the Hi Limit switch?
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Does anybody have the problem of the blower revving up and down with this stove. I have replaced everything on this stove . I just bought an "upgraded" board from Hudson River so I hope this fixes my problem. I actually had a board burn up ! The next board under warranty worked good for a little while but the the same prob came back. I live in b.c canada where the actually build the stove and they sent me an "upgraded" board . What they did was they grounded it . The problem came back. You can actually see on the back of the board burn marks ! It's seems to be be way too much resistance or something . The blower motor gets so hot that it stops completely . List of things changed
3 blower motors
2 ignitors
1 exhaust fan
Wiring harness
3 boards
Everything was under warranty because they were trying to figure out what was going on with this thing and it is installed properly so this was not an issue.
The over filling problem is an issue also but if you scrape the burn pot quite often you won't have s prob . I just hope this new board I bought fixes my problems . I live in northern Canada so it runs 24hrs a day for 5 to 6 months a year .
3 blower motors
2 ignitors
1 exhaust fan
Wiring harness
3 boards
Everything was under warranty because they were trying to figure out what was going on with this thing and it is installed properly so this was not an issue.
The over filling problem is an issue also but if you scrape the burn pot quite often you won't have s prob . I just hope this new board I bought fixes my problems . I live in northern Canada so it runs 24hrs a day for 5 to 6 months a year .
IHATEPROPANE
Minister of Fire
Same stove....no issues like that....hopefully the new board does the trick.
As for the pellets piling up..there is a bit of space around the burn pot ( horrible design IMHO) my cure is a simple one. By a length of thin rope gasket. Simply tie it tight along the lip of the burn pot and use the gasket cement at the knot.....works beautifully. No pile ups what so ever
I will take a pic
As for the pellets piling up..there is a bit of space around the burn pot ( horrible design IMHO) my cure is a simple one. By a length of thin rope gasket. Simply tie it tight along the lip of the burn pot and use the gasket cement at the knot.....works beautifully. No pile ups what so ever
I will take a pic
IHATEPROPANE
Minister of Fire
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
In addition to what IHATEPROPANE has told you you should also seal the area at the top of the auger flight where the cover goes over the pate. This can be sealed with RTV (500
or better).
It is also possible that where the auger flight and drop chute join came loose and the seal there to be broken.
These all fix air leak issues.
If the location your stove is in is a negative pressure zone it is also possible that your fire is air starved and you need to OAK the stove. If you have an OAK on the stove make certain that the screen isn't reducing the area through which air is drawn, this is an issue when certain caps are used to prevent insects and small animals from entering the stove system.
If your stove is piling up it is likely to have entered a reduction burn and this can over heat the burn pot (eventually destroying it) and the stove. Whether this would be hot enough inside the stoves shell to burn the control board I can't say. If the control board is to close to the firebox it might be able to cause issues for the controller. If there are loose connections at the controller they can cause sparking and motors first slowing and then when the connection is remade speeding up after awhile this can lead to the triacs on the control board failing.
I would checkout all connections in the stove. This includes those where the igniter is connected and all motors and snap discs.
or better).It is also possible that where the auger flight and drop chute join came loose and the seal there to be broken.
These all fix air leak issues.
If the location your stove is in is a negative pressure zone it is also possible that your fire is air starved and you need to OAK the stove. If you have an OAK on the stove make certain that the screen isn't reducing the area through which air is drawn, this is an issue when certain caps are used to prevent insects and small animals from entering the stove system.
If your stove is piling up it is likely to have entered a reduction burn and this can over heat the burn pot (eventually destroying it) and the stove. Whether this would be hot enough inside the stoves shell to burn the control board I can't say. If the control board is to close to the firebox it might be able to cause issues for the controller. If there are loose connections at the controller they can cause sparking and motors first slowing and then when the connection is remade speeding up after awhile this can lead to the triacs on the control board failing.
I would checkout all connections in the stove. This includes those where the igniter is connected and all motors and snap discs.
Last edited:
IHATEPROPANE
Minister of Fire
Yeah, I should have added Smokey's remarks about the other air leaks. I sealed these as well.In addition to what IHATEPROPANE has told you you should also seal the area at the top of the auger flight where the cover goes over the pate. This can be sealed with RTV (500
It is also possible that where the auger flight and drop chute join came loose and the seal there to be broken.
These all fix air leak issues.
If the location your stove is in is a negative pressure zone it is also possible that your fire is air starved and you need to OAK the stove. If you have an OAK on the stove make certain that the screen isn't reducing the area through which air is drawn, this is an issue when certain caps are used to prvent insects and small animals from entering the stove system.
If your stove is piling up it is likely to have entered a reduction burn and this can over heat the burn pot (eventually destroying it) and the stove. Whether this would be hot enough inside the stoves shell to burn the control board I can't say. If the control board is to close to the firebox it might be able to cause issues for the controller. If there are loose connections at the controller they can cause sparking and motors first slowing and then when the connection is remade speeding up after awhile this can lead to the triacs on the control board failing.
I would checkout all connections in the stove. This includes those where the igniter is connected and all motors and snap discs.
If you look at my burnpot you will see two things. First is the is no ash or clinkers in my pot after burning. I now get more than enoughbaur through there. I actually bought a OEM damper to make adjustments.
Second ...the front lip if the pot has been burned through. The cause was my lazy butt went too long between cleanings . And all the while a little ash drops through the bottom of the pot, building up and slightly altering the path of air through the pot causing it to lean just a hair, enought to eventually eat that part of the pot.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Air leaks, we no like them stinking air leaks, they mess up the air flow through the burn pile and cause all kinds of issues.
For example on the stoves having a burn pot with a u channel around the edge can find their burn pot buckling if there isn't a gasket in the u channel (under the lip) or if the burn pot isn't continuously welded to the rim from the effects of a burn pot air bypass. This is in addition to pile up in the burn pot.
Your combustion air should enter the stove, go through the burn pot and exit via the exhaust. No detours allowed. All detours will cause issues if not now very soon and some of these issues can result in fire where it shouldn't be.
For example on the stoves having a burn pot with a u channel around the edge can find their burn pot buckling if there isn't a gasket in the u channel (under the lip) or if the burn pot isn't continuously welded to the rim from the effects of a burn pot air bypass. This is in addition to pile up in the burn pot.
Your combustion air should enter the stove, go through the burn pot and exit via the exhaust. No detours allowed. All detours will cause issues if not now very soon and some of these issues can result in fire where it shouldn't be.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
IHATEPROPANE
Minister of Fire
Nuclear fuel would be niceAre you sure? Me thinxs he found some nuclear fuel and isn't sharing!
I would share if I found some.....not until after I stocked up first though of course 
PLEASE HELP...I have a Hudson River West Point. Must be the older mode, bought it brand new. We used it a little bit last heating season and it began to blow fuses. Now it blows a fuse when we change the fuse out and plug the stove in. Any advice?
Bman90_0
New Member
Anyone out there with Westpoint pellet stove have trouble with igniter circuit not being energized on startup? No voltage on circuit during startup....any help?
bworre71
Member
I know a bit late to this thread, I have this stove and this season went to fire it up and house filled with smoke and the stove kicked off. I replaced the board to the updated and replaced the room blower. I have yet to tackle the otherside where exhaust and sensors are located wondering if anyone can give any insight..... I am new to the handymanness of this machine...... I am a bit frustrated but better to research before throwing a wrench..... I have had the stove since 2010 and besides some auger issues it has been a good stove.
Maybe not enough air flow. Is the stove clean? I take the exhaust blower out and clean the blades and clean behind the blades and then take a compressor and blow out the chambers by putting the nozzle in where the exhaust fan blades go.
bworre71
Member
Cleaned it up, what can I use to reseal the exhaust fan..... does anyone know what voltage should be going to the fan or the wiring color chemo
bworre71
Member
bworre71
Member
And white is the common ground.... all I had to do was look in the manual.... who woulda thunk it
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