out of ideas

vasten said:

No the larger picture shows both air holes the silver part you see is the air damper at the full close position and the v you see is how much is still left uncovered at full close it make a v shape where half of the air intake is still left open. The picture with my finger shows the gap between the plate and the bottom of the stove. So at full close it hangs down far enough from stove that i can get my finger between it and the stove

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You might want to tighten that up mine don't hang down like that. If it will allow you to.

vasten said:

It dangles on the rod. And does you close flush or does it leave an opening still at full close

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The EPA has the air set to were you cant close it all the way down. But the silver plate should not hang down it should be flush against the stove when closed.

vasten said:

Ok so those nuts that held the plate on were finger tight so i snugged them up pretty tight flap still moves freely but is snug against bottom of the stove now a test firing

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How are things going after fixing that?

vasten said:

Ok i am befuddled it is running wide open flue temp is about 300 stove top is about 750 had a nice secondary fire going even. Plus i took an incense stick and went around every seam and not sucking any smoke in anywhere i can see

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Well like i said this stove likes to run in that range i have a hot fire going right now the way it sounds your stove is running normal. But i would install a pipe damper for when it runs really hot.

Yep, same design as mine. The two rectangular holes you see are the primary and secondary inlets. The one the plate covers is the primary and that plate should slide back further until it pretty much touches the divider hanging down. That would be about 1/2-3/4" open on the primary rod on mine and would definitely explain the stove running hot. I pulled the OAK off mine and looked at it and the divider plate is slightly bent toward the back or toward the secondary inlet side. Yours almost looks bent forward. If that divider is what is stopping the plate from going back further then that is what your problem is. If that is where it is crashing it looks like an easy fix by either notching the plate to go back further or bend that divider back a little. If you don't feel inclined to mess with it then I would contact the manufacture.

vasten said:

Okso i woke up this am to the furnace running i went to bed around 11 temp was 67 and climbing in the adjacent room were the therm is. When i got up at 6 there was a nice hot bed of coals but house had dropped below 62 shouldn't i get more of a burn time out of this when shut down ?

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How many splits were in the stove and how big were they?
What stove top temp did it get to?

I wake up with a bed of coals after 10 hours if i load it up good.

Also what temp did you start backing the air down in stages at?

Another thing to consider is if it was windy outside. My US stove 2500 really takes off when the wind is going hard. I have a pipe damper in mine and have had to use it a couple of times. it does run hot and puts off a lot of heat. my stove top temp is usually between 650 and 700 for the high point of the burn and then settles in about 500 to 550 for an extended time. I get 10 hours or so off of a load and have a good coal bed to start the next day with.

I looked at the pics again and even though it is a tad hard to see, if you look at corey21's pic you can see how his plate goes all the way back and straight against the divider plate coming down out between the primary and secondary side. This will basically leave only the vee shaped notch in the plate letting air in the primary.

Also, as with allot of the secondary stoves like this if you "stuff it to the gills" it's going to take off. It's just part of the game. If you keep the load around the top of the fire bricks (like the manufacture recommends) it is a very controllable firebox. My best burns are about the top of the bricks to maybe 2" higher. Above that when you start getting with in that last 2-4" of the top it starts burning top down off the secondaries and is running on the secondary air even with the primary shut. Much above the top of the bricks I get more heat but not longer burn times.

I had that exact stove 3yrs ago and posted many many times about its running away. The OP problems are part of why I sold it. If you have a really good draft there is no way to slow it down aside from modifing the primary door and or blocking off some of the secondary air. That design of the primary door kinda stinks too. Real sloppy. Even if there wasn't a notch it would leak plenty. Another case of EPA knows best but not always.

wkpoor said:

I had that exact stove 3yrs ago and posted many many times about its running away. The OP problems are part of why I sold it. If you have a really good draft there is no way to slow it down aside from modifing the primary door and or blocking off some of the secondary air. That design of the primary door kinda stinks too. Real sloppy. Even if there wasn't a notch it would leak plenty. Another case of EPA knows best but not always.

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I agree The Mag will get out of control. I don't have the draft like you do but with my 14 foot chimney it can still run away. It takes an art to running this stove but once i got the hang of it i am having success with it.

vasten said:

It's funny because i was thinking my one foot regency was doing a decent job if not better i assumed a larger stove burning same wood would give me better results

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One thing that i do is i don't wait till it is like 600 to back the air down. I start backing the air down in stages at 400 stove top sometimes 350.