Chimney Construction

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Joey J

New Member
Feb 11, 2013
33
I have been giving a lot of thought about lining my Heatilator chimney. Safety and the height of the roof puts me off. I also have been thinking of running a separate Class A in another part of the house and leaving the Heatilator fireplace alone. So here is option 2. I have a spot in my kitchen that may work. I live in a two story home. My garage ceilings are very high, I'd say around 15 feet or so. I would like to set the stove in the kitchen come off the top of the stove go up about 6 feet than a elbow ( I have 10 foot ceilings in the home) 3 feet though the wall (with thimble) with heavy duty steel stove pipe into the garage. From there connect (still going with steel stove pipe) a tee at a 45 degree angle giving it pitch. Than run it (8 feet) to a 45 degree elbow than hook that up to a straight 14 feet Class A chimney out the roof.

Concerns: 1) Is it safe to run a Wood stove pipe in the garage like this? Of course I would follow all clearance factors.

2) Will this draft properly. If you count all the pipe from the top of the stove it's about 30 feet. But will the elbow, tee, 45 and the 45 degree pitch make this
a poor drafting flue?

3) Would this be up to "code"


If need be I could come out the back of the stove and run it to a tee tilted at a 45 degree angle to a 45 than up saving me a 90 elbow?? What's do you think. I'm I headed for problems with this 2nd option? Should I just line the Heatilator? I should also say that the Heailator flue is straight up about 25 feet. This 2nd option would be on the far side of my garage roof giving me better access and peace of mind by going with the Class A flue. Not sure. Opinions welcome:)
 
A liner in the heatilator chimney should be safe as long as it is correctly installed. What is the intent of the liner? Will an insert be connected to it?

The garage flue might work too, but it will be more expensive. Can the offsets be avoided? Note that the maximum offset in class A pipe is 30 deg. There are no 45 deg class A fittings.

As for which setup will do a better job of heating the house, we need more info on the house layout, size and the intended stove.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'm not using an insert by rather a small wood stove sitting in front of the heatilator. I live in the mountains of S.C. so the weather is not that bad in the winter. But this years we have seen nights in the low twenties. So the stove would be more supplemental. My house is 3000 square feet, 2 stories. But as I said I'm not looking to heat it all with wood. I read on this board that a wood insert set into my factory built fireplace would not be safe? As far as the 45 degree bends go I didn't realize they only came in 30 degrees. I'll have to re-measure. My main reason that I'm looking at other ways of doing the install is my roof. VERY, very high and steep on the side with the Heatilator fireplace. So I would have to get a lift to rent. I don't like the idea that if I had something go wrong I would be out of luck. Other is to fit a woodstove into that Heatilator limits my choice of wood stoves. Right now the only one I know of is the Harthstone Homestead that would work without cutting into the Heatilator.

Joe
 
The set up that you described won't work. You could go through the house wall and into the garage to the Tee, but then would need to go straight up from there.
Once the the stove pipe meets the thimble, it must remain class A chimney all the way through the roof. You won't be able to use stove pipe in the garage.
Since you need to rent a lift, you should get a local hearth store to give you a price to install. It could be cheaper to just have them do it.
 
The set up that you described won't work. You could go through the house wall and into the garage to the Tee, but then would need to go straight up from there.
Once the the stove pipe meets the thimble, it must remain class A chimney all the way through the roof. You won't be able to use stove pipe in the garage.
Since you need to rent a lift, you should get a local hearth store to give you a price to install. It could be cheaper to just have them do it.

So are you saying beacuse of the bends it won't work or are you saying I would have to use Class A all the way once I go into the garage?
 
I would have to use Class A all the way once I go into the garage?

Yes, once a wall or ceiling is penetrated, it must stay Class A pipe.
 
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