Stove not shutting off

can you bypass the low limit switch? if you do and it shuts down then I would think it points to that

Bob Sorjanen said:

can you bypass the low limit switch? if you do and it shuts down then I would think it points to that

Click to expand...

Better off to pull it and check it with an ohm meter. Remember stove off and unplugged. The low limit should read open as in maximum resistance when disconnected from the stove's wiring.

ETA: There are a couple of switches on those units so check your wiring diagram and exploded parts diagram.

DemonGT said:

Pushed the off button and the fire went out as usual but the fans keep running? i opened the door and its cold inside? I figure its a bad low limit switch? Just wanted some opinions before spending the money on one.

Click to expand...

You said fans, as in both of them?

In the case of testing the low limit for shutting off you have to use an ohm meter, you can not use a jumper.

A jumper is only good for lying to the control board by telling it a switch is closed it is useless for any other purpose.

I found this for you, toll free number, doesn't cost a dime to explain the situation asking for their thoughts.

http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG...lpro-Owners-Manual-DHC-Control-Multi-Fuel.pdf

Set it on 200 in the Ω (ohms) area, and touch one lead to each terminal of the switch. If the low limit switch is good, your meter will read something like OL. If the switch is shorted closed, the meter will read some low number, perhaps 10 or 20 or less. OL means the switch is open, as it should be with a cold stove.

The leads go in the "com" and "V-Ω-mA" jacks. The switch should be disconnected when you test it.

You are testing for continuity with this setup.

ETA: you could also put the meter on the speaker symbol. That way, if the switch is closed, the meter will beep, if the switch is open, no beep.

Make certain you disconnect the leads on one of the switches terminals, stove off and unplugged, never do a ohm reading with the device in circuit.

After reading the manual I think I understand why both fans would be on if the low limit failed in the closed position. The manual also states the fans" will run for 30 minutes after the exhaust has cooled properly".With an OAK it could be cold in the stove if it runs for 30 minutes after the low limit has opened. Do the fans eventually turn off or do they stay running indefinately?

The information provided above says once the switch opens a 5 minute delay to fan shut off is entered.

One has to first find out if that low limit is closed or open. If it is closed you have your problem part if it is open and outside the 5 minute delay then the problem part is the control board.

I'm just going by what I read in the manual under trouble shooting on page 38...
http://www.pelprostoves.com/pdfs/Pelpro-Owners-Manual-Accutron-Control.pdf

DBCOOPER said:

I'm just going by what I read in the manual under trouble shooting on page 38...
http://www.pelprostoves.com/pdfs/Pelpro-Owners-Manual-Accutron-Control.pdf

Click to expand...

Yup, provided that manual matches his stove.

Did you zero the meter? That is short the two probes together and adjust it until it reads 0.

ETA: We need to know if the battery in the meter is good, when the probes touch each other you should see 0 on the meter. Some units don't have an adjustment you can make to zero the unit.

If you touch the leads together, does the meter read zero?

EDIT Smokey beat me to it!

If the meter has a good battery in it the switch is open.

ETA: My cheap meter even tells me to change the battery, but they aren't all the same.

Ok, the batteries are fine and your switch is fine bad , that 1 was an over limit or high resistance reading or open switch reading. It appears you are looking at a control board issue.

Call Danson and see what is what for prices and availability.

Post #4 states that the switch opens at 120 degrees. I would think that from that statement, the switch is open on rise, and should be closed (or shunted) at room temp. Feel free to flog if I am reading it wrong.

I just changed my low temp snap disc, however, it was a close on rise type for my control board.

pell it said:

Post #4 states that the switch opens at 120 degrees. I would think that from that statement, the switch is open on rise, and should be closed (or shunted) at room temp. Feel free to flog if I am reading it wrong.

I just changed my low temp snap disc, however, it was a close on rise type for my control board.

Click to expand...

Yes you are correct it does appear it is a open on rise unit which should have closed when it dropped below the 120 mark.

Replace the limit switch and things are likely to be fine.

Make certain that the switch you get is an open on rise unit which is the opposite of most proof of fire systems.

Since the switch is reading just one ohm when cold, it looks to me like it's ok. (I would have expected 0 ohms though. Your meter might be suspect with the numbers jumping around when the probes are touched together). I would heat the switch up on the stove or with a match and see if the resistance goes very high. Open on rise is definitely not a fail-safe method to test for proof of fire! Not much you can do about it, though.