My door latch assembly has the treaded piece which goes out to the handle,, almost at the end of the treaded piece it has two nuts with a lock washer between them,, then the door latch which has a few washers behind it for tightening the door gasket to stove surface as gasket wears ....Well what is happening is I tighten the 2 nuts till the door closes nice and snug but after a few openings the nuts loosens up allowing air in threw gasket when shut.(I do the dollar bill test),, if you tighten the nuts too much then you cant move the handle..Just wondering if any one else with a Regency F2400 has had this problem with the latch assembly loosening after use ???? Thank you Mario
Regency F2400 door latch problem
- Thread starter mario veda
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Mario, I don't happen to have that problem with my Regency but to fix what you were describing I would just go and get some "High Temperature Loctite Threadlock" in like a medium strength setup. That should prevent the problem pretty permanently. Again a mild to medium strength is all you would likely want. Their high temperature stuff can sustain higher temps than our stoves should see. Hope that helps.
danham
Burning Hunk
I find my Regency door latch very fussy to adjust. The trick is to get it adjusted properly based primarily on where the shims are, not how tight the nuts are. Once you have that dialed in by having the right thickness "behind" the latch mechanism, then you also need to be able to lock the two nuts against each other so that you tighten the whole assembly, handle and all, enough not to flop around but not so much that you can't turn it. This requires one very thin wrench (called a tappet wrench) to hold the inner nut while you tighten the outer one against it without turning both.
Unless what you call a lock washer really is a lock washer, not just another shim, it does not belong between the two locking nuts. This may be why it loosens when you turn the handle. The nuts should press on each other. A true lock washer is not smooth; it has either a split end or raised bumps.
In other words, what should be determining how tight the door closes is how many shims are where, not how tight the retaining nuts are. What makes it tricky is that when you tighten the nut closest to the latch, it will influence how tight the latch is as it takes up slack in the shims, so it takes several tries to get it all right.
Done correctly there's no need for Loctite, though it can't hurt.
-dan
Unless what you call a lock washer really is a lock washer, not just another shim, it does not belong between the two locking nuts. This may be why it loosens when you turn the handle. The nuts should press on each other. A true lock washer is not smooth; it has either a split end or raised bumps.
In other words, what should be determining how tight the door closes is how many shims are where, not how tight the retaining nuts are. What makes it tricky is that when you tighten the nut closest to the latch, it will influence how tight the latch is as it takes up slack in the shims, so it takes several tries to get it all right.
Done correctly there's no need for Loctite, though it can't hurt.
-dan
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