Easy To Make Log Lifter

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Mr A

Minister of Fire
Nov 18, 2011
600
N. California
Thats fantastic. I think even I could build that, and I think I will. I just quit cutting on a big Red Oak because I was getting into some stuff that was too big to load in the truck. Now I can go back and get more. Thanks for the post.
 
I think I'd put a higher handle on it so you can start from a higher squat position
 
  • Like
Reactions: Backwoods Savage
I think I'd put a higher handle on it so you can start from a higher squat position
How would you get the log on?
 
Adding a handle to the end of the lift that would pivot flat and catch on a cross brace when you lift it.. Make sense?
 
Adding a handle to the end of the lift that would pivot flat and catch on a cross brace when you lift it.. Make sense?
I just spent 10 minutes making one. I built mine just like the one in the link, I had a 16 ft. 2X6 to use and some short stuff for the in 11" blocks between. I nailed some plywood under the lift tray block, and added a diagonal plywood piece under for a shelf support, backed the brace with additional strip of plywood. I'm not following your add a pivot handle suggestion. I only had nails, good for the blocks, but screws would be better for the plywood. For very heavy rounds like the one I tested it on, I think a piece of steel pipe on the lifting end, between the 8'- 2X6 would help in the transition of grip from lifting as you would a wheel barrel, to turning to a pushing grip to tip the round into the truck. I built mine 14" across. Would your handle be on the same configuration as the lift shelf, 90 degrees from the main 2X6 lift arms? That may help in initial lifting, but when you need to push it off into the truck, your arms might not be long enough. This is just something simple and quick, that works., but is pretty close to effortless to lift a 400 pound oak round 33 inches up into the back of my truck
 

Attachments

  • loglift.jpg
    loglift.jpg
    240.5 KB · Views: 764
Yeah I get the simplicity of it and I'm not knocking the idea
I just envision the pivoting handle mounted inside along the same plane extending slightly further than the 2x6 with dowel across.
This way you can lift the handle ~18" before actually picking the load. Of course getting to the tailgate and letting go it may bang you in the face.:eek:
Just a thought.
It's and interesting idea in original form, I'll build one with my pivot idea and take some pics
 
I just spent 10 minutes making one. I built mine just like the one in the link, I had a 16 ft. 2X6 to use and some short stuff for the in 11" blocks between. I nailed some plywood under the lift tray block, and added a diagonal plywood piece under for a shelf support, backed the brace with additional strip of plywood. I'm not following your add a pivot handle suggestion. I only had nails, good for the blocks, but screws would be better for the plywood. For very heavy rounds like the one I tested it on, I think a piece of steel pipe on the lifting end, between the 8'- 2X6 would help in the transition of grip from lifting as you would a wheel barrel, to turning to a pushing grip to tip the round into the truck. I built mine 14" across. Would your handle be on the same configuration as the lift shelf, 90 degrees from the main 2X6 lift arms? That may help in initial lifting, but when you need to push it off into the truck, your arms might not be long enough. This is just something simple and quick, that works., but is pretty close to effortless to lift a 400 pound oak round 33 inches up into the back of my truck

Do you mean put a steel bar between the 2x6's as in drill holes in each 2x6, slip a bar through one hole, then the other and attach it some way? Where would you say it should be placed? I'd like to build me one this weekend. Be nice to have an opinion from someone that had hands on experience...Thanks
 
If you click on the first link , then click on "easy lift sawbuck" , it has pics of one with steel bars between the 2x6's ..
 
Do you mean put a steel bar between the 2x6's as in drill holes in each 2x6, slip a bar through one hole, then the other and attach it some way? Where would you say it should be placed? I'd like to build me one this weekend. Be nice to have an opinion from someone that had hands on experience...Thanks
Yea, so yo you could pull it up and easily slide your grip into pushing position. I saw the saw buck related link but not what you are describing as " pics of one with steel bars between the 2x6's .." The steel bar could be piece of threaded pipe with nuts and washers. or heavy duty conduitwith a pin on each side. Maybe a piece of closet rod(the wooden horizontal pole in your closet)
 
it does look like he added a bar between the 2x6's on the lifting end, but he doesn't describe that, didn't notice. figuring out a way to make a bar rotate as you lifted it would be a good improvement
 
it does look like he added a bar between the 2x6's on the lifting end, but he doesn't describe that, didn't notice. figuring out a way to make a bar rotate as you lifted it would be a good improvement

Yes, thats what I was thinking. A rotating bar. I should have been more clear when I said " then click on "easy lift sawbuck" , it has pics of one with steel bars between the 2x6's ..".. I know that was a sawbuck, but it showed steel bars being used.
 
My rendition...Saweeeet ...I had an old aluminum ladder that I cut down to about 6 foot . I used lag bolts on most of it when attaching the wood to the ladder..( Don't look too close. Carpenter I aint ). I'd think using the ladder would work better than using a wood frame because of the rungs. Easy to grip and can "walk" it up .
I was able to lift huge Red Oak logs onto my truck with ease. One thing to watch out for. Sometimes the logs come rolling off as soon as it gets vertical, falling onto the tailgate.. I found this can cause your tail gate to "re-adjust". ==c
 

Attachments

  • CRW_1723.jpg
    CRW_1723.jpg
    209.1 KB · Views: 672
  • CRW_1724.jpg
    CRW_1724.jpg
    239.8 KB · Views: 545
  • CRW_1725.jpg
    CRW_1725.jpg
    315.5 KB · Views: 596
My rendition...Saweeeet ...I had an old aluminum ladder that I cut down to about 6 foot . I used lag bolts on most of it when attaching the wood to the ladder..( Don't look too close. Carpenter I aint ). I'd think using the ladder would work better than using a wood frame because of the rungs. Easy to grip and can "walk" it up .
I was able to lift huge Red Oak logs onto my truck with ease. One thing to watch out for. Sometimes the logs come rolling off as soon as it gets vertical, falling onto the tailgate.. I found this can cause your tail gate to "re-adjust". ==c
I really like the ladder idea. Very nice extension of the original design.
 
  • Like
Reactions: westkywood
Simple and effective...nice ideas!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.