Help! ID stove for insurance purposes?

I would just remove it for now to satisfy the insurance company and revisit it in the fall, maybe you will find a new stove deal in the mean time that the insurance company will be OK with. The hearth pad will have to be upgraded no matter what you go with, maybe over the summer build one yourself one once you figure out what your going to do for a stove.

With no tags it is going to be hard to prove it is UL listed and the clearances. It looks to be just another Grizzly knock off stove that has long since gone out of business and defaults to the maximum clearances.

Almost any stove is going to require a pad somewhere on the order of 50" square, and it looks like you're WAY short of that. I hear what you're saying about only wanting to use it for power outages, and not put any $$ into it, but here's another way to look at it:

1. Hang out here a few weeks / months, and listen to the stories.
2. Learn that you can save a few thousand PER YEAR in heating costs with a good stove setup (I saved $2200, this year alone)
3. Start collecting your fuel supply, which must season a year or three anyway
4. Use your new knowledge and our help to find the right stove, and build a proper hearth for it.
5. Say bye-bye to the oil man and the propane man. Your wife was getting too friendly with him, anyway.

Even most new stoves require side clearance on the pad of 6-8" and it doesn't look like you have that.
I'm actually surprised they didn't say anything about the pad. What kind of R-value has it got?
Some stoves only require ember protection, and others require quite high values because of the heat emanating from the bottom of the stove.
Someone will correct if I'm wrong, but if it's not UL listed and no tag, the default CTC in the back may also be 36". Unless my eyes deceive, you don't have that either.
What's with the wood thing under the pad?
If the stove isn't there, the HOI can't complain. Remove it for now, like mellow said, and revisit later this year when you have more time and maybe money. Lots on your plate right now with a new house to deal with this.
Also, looks like a Grizzly or knockoff. My brother has one, but a little different. His is a steptop and says Grizzly on the front. That's how I know what it is. I'm observant like that.
Joful made good points, especially about the wood. Go get a bunch of wood....... yesterday... and get it cut, split, and stacked in the windiest/sunniest spot on the property. Do that.......we'll wait.
You WILL have a miserable burning experience if you don't get some wood ASAP. If you already have a bunch, go get more. This is your prime goal, not the stove. Trust us on this.
How's the flue situation?

Unless someone on this site has one, I doubt you will be able to ID it. It's a knock-off of some sort made in the back of a welding shop somewhere. There probably very few in existence. They didn't bother to put their name on it, that says a lot!

It looks like brick veneer behind the stove, if so, the stove is also too close to that wall. The hearth pad will need to extend on the sides as well, the insurance is right. I don't think that pad is approved for a non UL-listed stove either. Most old stoves require it to sit on solid masonry or something comparable.

Like was mentioned above, hang out, do some research on here. Pull that thing out, fix the leak where the pipe meets the wall,gather all the wood you can and gather all the advice you can.
By this fall, you will be running a new, efficient stove!

webby3650 said:

Like was mentioned above, hang out, do some research on here. Pull that thing out, fix the leak where the pipe meets the wall,gather all the wood you can and gather all the advice you can. By this fall, you will be running a new, efficient stove!

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Great advice

Would they consider it decommissioned if you took out the single wall pipe and put a cap on the thimble? That way you could push the stove against the back wall and have more room till you figure out what you are going to do.

Seems excessive to have those big sheets of durock hanging out just so the stove can sit there.

rbrooks said:

the back wall, which isn't just a faux brick veneer, that's actual thin brick mortared into place on a cement board or hardibacker base. They had no issue with that, the stove is about 18" from that wall.

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Well, that's what brick veneer is.
It's the material behind that I am concerned about. If the stove has no tags, then it would need to be 36" from the wall to meet code without a proper wall protection.

I have seen stoves that insurance has signed off on that were in no way in compliance with codes. One had upside down pipe, a dislodged stovepipe adapter, and it was 8" from the wall. This stove required 36". The insurance and the home inspector said it was good to go. SO, they don't always know what they are talking about. More often than not, they aren't correct. You need to make a proper hearth pad and wall protection, or replace the stove with one that is code compliant, one that requires minimal hearth protection. You don't want to burn down your new house!

faux brick = high density polyurethane
common in sheets and also a fake thin brick
they are for looks only
I just took a brick chimney down that had a plywood chase covered with the things
they pop off easy and those popped off: you can still smell the acrylic resin used to glue them down 40 years ago

I'm sorry to say but your pad does not look legit. Get something safer for your family, good luck

Definetly not a Fisher!, I'm going back many years but I "think" either Montgomery Wards or the old chain store W.T. Grants sold that stove. Again, I'm not positive but that stove rings a memory bell in one of those stores.

Good luck

i wouldnt feel safe with that install.......