I use mine with a bx23 and it works great. Here is a link to one in action. This video is accurate, mine works as well as the video illustrates.
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I'm use to cutting so that branches chip easily... Even when I was a climber, I was always considerate of the ground men.. I'd always make sure when I was free falling limbs that they were cut so they could go right in the chipper,, no crotches or branches sticking out a steep side angle.. work on the ground went smooth that way... I use to hate seeing a climber bury a ground crew trying to keep up... next thing people are under your drop zone trying to keep up... not good... Not to get off the subject,,, but I worked for a guy years ago that thought he was very fast at taking down trees.... Well he was actually slow when you looked at getting the whole job done... This guy would for example limb out a pine, like a mad man,,, then start blocking all the trunk wood on top of all the brush... come down go look at another job and leave us to clean up,,,, LOL now we had to move all the trunk wood to even get to the brush to start chipping... ahhhhh,,, the early days
Adios Pantalones
Minister of Fire
You'd be better off lowering RPM's as much as possible and then killing the PTO. As soon as you disengage a PTO with a hydraulic clutch/brake (usually electrically controlled via switch/relay) the brake is immediately engaged. Also, some Kubota's with hydro transmissions use a clutch pedal that will disconnect the PTO. I'd just stand on that and let it freewheel down.
That's what I do with my rear 5 ft blower... Engage and disengage at an idle.. I have a standard transmission on my Kubota... Live PTO,,, so when you flip the lever it's immediately turning..
You might not get away with engaging a heavy flywheel'd chipper at idle, especially with no way to feather the clutch a bit. Wet PTO clutches can withstand an incredible amount of abuse. Makes me wonder why they use dry clutches in cars/trucks still.
eauzonedan
Member
Another vote for Wallenstein. I have a +/-35 hp Deere 970 and it spins the bigger unit (62 without feeder) just fine. I went with the bigger chipper unit as the additional flywheel weight is a plus to bust up pesty little hard chunks - like rock hard dry pine. The extra weight makes it a bit of a bear to wrestle when off the tractor, but worth it. They said they don't need the aux feeder and they were right. Also said the lower HP rating for a bigger unit is not anything cast in stone. For me anything more than a couple inches if firewood. My only problem has been thick viney leafy green tops of birch trees tends to plug it if you don't let them dry a week or two before feeding. I suspect the smaller units would be even worse and plug easier due to smaller chutes. Anything without fresh green leaves is great....bangs thru oak just as easy as softwood.... good source is http://www.iowafarmequipment.com/wallenstein-tractor-pto-wood-chippers.html These were good people to work with and will ship it to your door. 10-4 on engage the clutch at low rpm and ramp it up with engine rpm.........with the big flywheel there is a couple hundred pounds of mass to spin up to 500+ rpm.....
Dan
Dan
denn
Member
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I've spent lots of time behind a pto chipper. You engage the pto at idle just as you do with all equipment, slip the clutch to bring things up to speed. Then raise the idle to pto 540, get off the machine, flip up the seat so it doesn't fill with junk, and start chipping. The engine will lug when you feed something too large too fast. You can either stop feed or slow feed to allow the rpm to come back up. None of this disengaging the PTO.
If you plan to chip 4" material then get at least an 8" chipper. Realize that the branches aren't straight and forks in a 2" branch will often exceed the throat width of an 8" chipper.
Go power feed or don't buy a PTO chipper. Whether that is hydro feed or some type of mechanical feed.
The last option which is often cheaper than a PTO chipper is a stand alone foresry chipper like the power crews use. Those things are impressive and can often be cheap to buy. Not a lot to wear out that can't be replaced easily. Some are power feed and some are "chuck and duck" with a drum that sucks in the branch violently and fast.
If you plan to chip 4" material then get at least an 8" chipper. Realize that the branches aren't straight and forks in a 2" branch will often exceed the throat width of an 8" chipper.
Go power feed or don't buy a PTO chipper. Whether that is hydro feed or some type of mechanical feed.
The last option which is often cheaper than a PTO chipper is a stand alone foresry chipper like the power crews use. Those things are impressive and can often be cheap to buy. Not a lot to wear out that can't be replaced easily. Some are power feed and some are "chuck and duck" with a drum that sucks in the branch violently and fast.
I just bought the same chipper on CL. You got a better deal. Not too many PTO implements down here in SoCal. I've got it hohked up to my JD 1025, but I keep blasting through the sheer bolt. I'm not sure this is the original PTO shaft. Any tips for a newbee?I couldn't afford the $2000+ for a PTO chipper. I scoured CL and finally found a WW Grinder Apache 240C for sale. Guy wanted $300 and all it needed was new belts. Granted, it's not self feed but this little thing can chew a 3" limb pretty well. The shreader on top handles some large debris as well.
Fiziksgeek
Burning Hunk
I also have a Wallenstein BXM32 and its great. I power it with my Massey Ferguson GC2400 with 18.7 PTO HP. Seems like its matched well. You could easily go up to the BXM42 with your tractor.
Took this video on my first use.
Took this video on my first use.
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