Drolet for my sq footage.... terrible house diagram included :P

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I have a 10 year old daughter and a 3 yr old daughter, and a wife... ALL three clutsy as HELL !!

Regardless of the stove I'll put a barrier around it.

As for the stove itself... with my budget being inline with Drolet and Englander it seems like their stoves are 1.5 cubic feet or 3.5 cubit feet without anything in the middle. "IF" I went with a larger stove 3+ CF ... could I just burn smaller fires?

 
Very cute family shot. You're a handsome family.

You could go huge and burn small, but you might be restarting the stove a lot or burning kind of dirty. A mid-sized PE is perfect for your house. Get on the phone and shop around. See if you can find one at a reasonable price.
 
Thanks BeGreen... I will do that, it's just a bummer that some of the nicer stoves that would be a better fit are WAY over twice the price of an NC-30 !! :(
 
Thanks BeGreen... I will do that, it's just a bummer that some of the nicer stoves that would be a better fit are WAY over twice the price of an NC-30 !! :(

Not really, there are some construction differences that will pay off in the long run. If you get a good deal the mid-sized PE will be about $15-1800, but it will be fully clad, ember only protection (money saved there on the hearth) and with a great long burn time. Over the life of the stove the additional cost will be less than a penny a day.
 
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Lovely family. Very glad you are surrounding the stove.

Have you considered buying a good used stove? It would give you lots more options. People get rid of perfectly good stoves, sometimes just to try a different stove, sometimes because they need bigger or smaller, sometimes because they move....If you look you can find really good used stoves at way less than new prices.
 
That looks like an old Hearthstone II. It's not a cast iron stove, it's a soapstone stove. It would do the job. You might need to invest some sweat equity, especially on the inside of the stove, but at the end of the day, if it is basically sound it wouldn't be the worst choice for a first stove. You'll burn a bit more fuel, but the price is pretty nice.
 
wasnt there a
I have had zero luck on CL ... this one looks like it COULD be a deal... looks like soapstone, but I wouldn't have the first clue what to check for and am afraid I would get screwed!
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/hsh/3884024664.html

i thought i found a good deal on a stove that looked like that, was in nice shape but it was the one with a cat in it and everyone basically said run away.. in a thread here somewhere, so if you do look make sure you get the exact model and ask the stove gods here


a 'warm wife is a happy life' so you can always burn with the windows cracked if you go big, you go to smal and you wife wont be so happy warm
 
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You may want to consider a stove you can load north to south. Makes for tighter loads and no issues with splits rolling out if by chance you open the door for any reason. Less chance of embers falling out also when door is opened.
 
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The TN19 is a good heater by all reports here. It is a stripped down version with secondary tubes instead of the stainless secondary box baffle. I'm not sure if it has the linked secondary air control found on the mainline 2 cu ft PE's. That would be a question worth asking of the dealer.
 
You may want to consider a stove you can load north to south. Makes for tighter loads and no issues with splits rolling out if by chance you open the door for any reason. Less chance of embers falling out also when door is opened.

+1 and why I am suggesting the PE instead of the mid-sized Drolets which tend to be shallower E/W loaders.
 
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It merely a personal preference, but I would be all over the Englander 30. That is just my opinion. I have one here waiting for me to install it in my 221 sf office room, which will have two open doorway to the rest of the addition and main house. I will most likely be walking around in my undies. But I already expect this up front. I have made provisions when I built the addition to add two ducts from the office, one to the large bedroom behind and the other will be finished run to the main house via the upper loft wall. I have two fantech inline duct fans, (good ones, not the el cheapo plastic ones) along with 2 fire stop dampers I bought off ebay. I have visualized a convection loop, and have felt some air circulation so far, so I will see how well a convection loop sets up once I get the addition done and stove in place. I also have the Summit in the main house living room and ceiling fans in both stove rooms as well as the new rear bedroom.
Where yours is going to be located you def need a fencing or gate around it. I just picture myself walking in the dark down the steps and hanging a turn and walking right into the stove while half asleep.
I walk into crap all the time while making my way to my steps in the dark to go to bed.
Good luck with your choice, enjoy.
 
Dad walking around in his undies might not be the best example for those cute young ladies. :)
 
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Know anybody in Montana? Road trip! http://greatfalls.craigslist.org/app/3882059046.html

A bit closer...http://lawrence.craigslist.org/for/3898365845.html

http://stjoseph.craigslist.org/fuo/3881467180.html

http://omaha.craigslist.org/app/3841328226.html

Might only be a vista which would be a little small. Why do all the Pacific Energy stoves look identical.!?

This would be a great stove...2.6 cu ft, catalytic,...http://tulsa.craigslist.org/fod/3911492892.html

Brand new going out of business sale, so you may be able to get it cheaper.

Here is the buck website on it...https://www.buckstove.com/model-80.html

Edit...I just noticed that the Buck 80 has an 8 inch flue....this ups the cost
 
Hi Big D- Never hurts listening to a guy like BG- I find myself agreeing with him a lot. The stoves he mentioned from PE and Enviro- you can't find better values on the market. I not only sell PE and Enviro, I burn them. The Kodiak is a beautiful burning stove, my recommendation would be look at the PEs and Enviro Kodiak 1200 or 1700, I'd go with the 1700, 2.5cft for your layout. The Drolets are prob a good value, but will be "tired" long before the two I mentioned. Finding one used would help, but don't see many used ones available. Hope your woodpile is ready already... Good luck.
 
Dunno - as much as I like the NC30 - I think you are using a sledge hammer on a finishing nail. That 3.5 cuft heat belching beast is gonna want to run at 600+ degrees. Way too much for your layout in my opinion.

I am in agreement with those suggesting a 2 to 2.5 cuft stove (more around the 2.5;)) . The PE Super27 is a great stove with a great reputation of nice long (and low) burns. It would be on my short list for sure.
 
The Drolets are prob a good value, but will be "tired" long before the two I mentioned.

That's a bit of a myth... Steel is steel, bricks are bricks and glass is glass. These are the three main components of all steel stoves on the market. From the least expensive brand to the most expensive. Lifetime from a 'cheaper' stove is not necessarily less than a high end one (notice I only talk about plate steel stoves).

And since wood stoves do not have moving parts, you should easily get 25 years of life if not more from the majority of the brands available in the market.

The difference between less expensive brands and the more expensive ones typically is thickness of material (steel in particular if it comes from China), Pumice bricks which may not last as long, baffle material & thickness, door mechanism, fit & finish, shielding (clearances and hearth pad requirements), warranty and looks.
 
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the fit an finish of the drolet stuff is pretty darn good

(fit-finish of my myriad > fit- finish englander nc13 I had since thats a stove most can relate to - no question about it)
 
That's a bit of a myth... Steel is steel, bricks are bricks and glass is glass. These are the three main components of all steel stoves on the market. From the least expensive brand to the most expensive. Lifetime from a 'cheaper' stove is not necessarily less than a high end one (notice I only talk about plate steel stoves).

And since wood stoves do not have moving parts, you should easily get 25 years of life if not more from the majority of the brands available in the market.

The difference between less expensive brands and the more expensive ones typically is thickness of material (steel in particular if it comes from China), Pumice bricks which may not last as long, baffle material & thickness, door mechanism, fit & finish, shielding (clearances and hearth pad requirements), warranty and looks.

Not to disagree, but to add... there can be differences in baffle design, secondary combustion method, air controls, convection vs radiant design, flue bypass (on some stoves), loading options, ash pan, door design, hinge and door latch design, insulation, efficiency, hearth requirements, options and accessories, blower quality (and noise), etc. and I've probably forgotten a few more. The devil is in the details sometimes.
 
Not surprising.

Did you look at that Hearthstone you posted about? It might be a really good buy if it hasn't been overfired...if it is still in good working condition. Shouldn't be hard to do any routine maintenance it might require, and you could end up with a very satisfactory stove for a small cost. I'd go look at it. If it looks good, at that price I'd buy it. Keep in mind it is very easy to touch up exterior paint, if needed. At the price asked, you could surely resell it for your purchase price if you decided you wanted to go elsewhere....
 
I am just really nervous about buying a second hand stove ONLY because I don't know how to tell a lemon from a peach!

I know a lot about a lot of things, but stoves aint one of em! :p
 
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