Chainsaw Problem

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red oak

red oak

Minister of Fire
Sep 7, 2011
1,294
northwest Virginia
I purchased a new Huskqvarna 440 saw a few months ago. I wanted to get another 350 but they didn't sell them at Lowes and the 440 is a bit lighter. Anyway, when I used it yesterday, it was having a hard time getting going. Cut off right away, and had to choke it again. And again...etc. It did get going, but cut out a few times when idling. As long as I gave it gas it was fine. It's under warranty, but I have a few jobs I'd like to get done in the next few days and would rather not be without it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Whenever you buy a homeowner grade saw from a big box store, you must also order the special splined carb adjustment screw. The saw is starved for fuel (as required by the EPA). 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise on both the H and L screw will solve the problem. Since you are pressed for time, you may be able to get to the screws with a pair of small hemostats, electrical tubing or remove the screw and cut a slot in it with a dremel.

Here is so more reading on the issue http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/164850.htm
 
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wow and its pricey too!! HOw can they peg a carb?? If somethings amiss it will lean out and ruin it?
 
If it runs fine with the throttle it's likely only the low speed jet (screw marked L). It may just need the idle bumped up a hair. That's another screw somewhere in there.
 
In my experience, they are lean on top as well and benefit from additional fuel throughout the circuit
 
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Joful i was thinking the same thing. Yes there a quality saw and cheaper, but that dealer network thing will get you. But it at a stihl dealer and take it back they mostlikely will fool with it while your there if it is something simple like carb adjustment.

Can you take it back to a real saw shop husky dealer? I m sure you wont get the same treatement and they will have to get a ticket on it and then run it through husky headquarters so they can get an hour of lobor on it, since it was not purchased from them.....
 
Thanks all for the suggestions. I can get to the L and H screws on this saw with a long Phillips, but I think I fixed the problem by giving it new gas (I think the previous mix had a bit too much oil in it, it was smoking a bit yesterday) and adjusting the T screw to increase the idle speed a bit. Also the manual says to hit the air purge every time you start it, even if it's warm. Once I started doing that it started right up and seems to be running fine now. Thanks again all!
 
red oak - do yourself a favor and tune that carb regardless. Lowes & 2-stroke settings out of the box = many a premature death. Ask me how I know.

The splined tool would be awesome for tuning, but they aren't cheap from the places I've found. I just slot them with a dremel.
 
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Unless u had double the oil like you were running it at 25:1 that was not the issue. Water in your fuel maybe more likely. Oil is not as big an issue as people make it out to be. I run everything at 40:1 saws don't know a difference.
 
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maple1 said:
How long did it sit?

Almost sounds like gas gone bad.
Click to expand...

I thought of that too - that's why I got new gas today. I ran it the previous day and it didn't smoke any. I was nearing the bottom of the gas in my 2 gallon container, and I had filled that container about a month and a half ago. I used it for about an hour this afternoon and it did much better - no smoke or idling problems.
 
cnice_37 said:
red oak - do yourself a favor and tune that carb regardless. Lowes & 2-stroke settings out of the box = many a premature death. Ask me how I know.

The splined tool would be awesome for tuning, but they aren't cheap from the places I've found. I just slot them with a dremel.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a good suggestion. I certainly want this saw to last awhile!
 
HittinSteel said:
Whenever you buy a homeowner grade saw from a big box store, you must also order the special splined carb adjustment screw. The saw is starved for fuel (as required by the EPA). 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise on both the H and L screw will solve the problem. Since you are pressed for time, you may be able to get to the screws with a pair of small hemostats, electrical tubing or remove the screw and cut a slot in it with a dremel.

Here is so more reading on the issue http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/164850.htm
Click to expand...

That's a good thread - pretty informative. I just assumed that those screws could be turned with a screwdriver - but we all know what assuming does. I'll see if I can rig up something to turn those, or just order the tool. Thanks!
 
red oak said:
I thought of that too - that's why I got new gas today. I ran it the previous day and it didn't smoke any. I was nearing the bottom of the gas in my 2 gallon container, and I had filled that container about a month and a half ago. I used it for about an hour this afternoon and it did much better - no smoke or idling problems.
Click to expand...

I guess what I was getting at, was how long did the saw sit unused with gas in it? Sometimes it goes real funky pretty quick - things can get all green & gooey inside. All else being equal, it should have worked the same when you got it out as it did when you put it away. Might not hurt to run some seafoam through it - although maybe the gas that you have just run through it cleaned things out a bit if it's working better now.

Main thing is, if it was on the lean edge when you got it, and it set with gas going bad in it, it will run even leaner with a dirty carb. So you might be on the edge of a burn down without some cleaning & re-tuning.
 
Is it only the homeowner / big box saws that have those reverse-spline head screws, or all new saws after xxx date?
 
Definitely the poulans and husky consumer saws. Some people love the splined screws with the proper tool, much easier to adjust a running saw than trying to find a slot
 
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maple1 said:
I guess what I was getting at, was how long did the saw sit unused with gas in it? Sometimes it goes real funky pretty quick - things can get all green & gooey inside. All else being equal, it should have worked the same when you got it out as it did when you put it away. Might not hurt to run some seafoam through it - although maybe the gas that you have just run through it cleaned things out a bit if it's working better now.

Main thing is, if it was on the lean edge when you got it, and it set with gas going bad in it, it will run even leaner with a dirty carb. So you might be on the edge of a burn down without some cleaning & re-tuning.
Click to expand...

The seafoam is a good idea for sure. Make sure it's good and clean and adjust those screws to give it a bit more gas and we'll see what happens.
 
HittinSteel said:
Definitely the poulans and husky consumer saws. Some people love the splined screws with the proper tool, much easier to adjust a running saw than trying to find a slot
Click to expand...


Yeah, but so would a socket head (ie: Allen), standard torx, or even hex head.

Point is, I have not seen these on any of my saws, although I'm not sure I've ever even looked at the screws on the T435. That saw was adjusted twice, once when purchased, and once when stopping by the dealer to pick up more chain.
 
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