Ramsplitter HV16 110v electrical requirements

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Bster13

Minister of Fire
Feb 24, 2012
810
CT
My HF 7-ton splitter is gone and buried, time to move on to something that will last.

I've decided on the HV16 from Ramsplitter, hopefully 110v:
http://www.ramsplitter.com/pages/splitters/r16ton.html

I have 100 amp service to my house and a 15a breaker plus 15a outlet literally 4 inches from my panel on the garage wall. I have a 15a rated, 12 gauge, 50 foot extension cord.

I was looking to confirm what the electrical requirements are for this particular splitter.

The average lows for my area are in the 20s (keep in mind that is overnight) in the Winter. I've read about folks having to convert their motors to 220V due to cold starting, but I hope my weather requires this.

I'm also interested on what sort of hydraulic fluid I'd need for this splitter as I cannot find any manually online.

Thanks!
 
I have one of these RamSplitters.
Great Splitter. I have the 120v version.
It is rated at 15 amps but uses all 15 amps, particularly on startup.
Never found any temperature issues. Have run it down to 0 degF

I use a 20 amp outlet to run mine. I also use 10 gage chords. If you do that it will split most anything.
I used ATF fluid from Walmart as the hydraulic fluid. Runs fine.
 
Just curious. How long did the HF 7-ton last? What caused its demise (i.e., was it lovingly cared for and lightly used, or overworked and undermaintained, or somewhere in the middle?)
 
IMO, the HF splitter (and most likely splitter of the same design?) have flawed connectors with their hydraulic lines. Both of the splitters formed little pools of fluid underneath the hydraulic lines and to the best of my ability they leaked there at the fittings. My first HF splitter looked good out of the box then developed the leaks. The 2nd splitter looked good on the outside of the box, but when I unboxed the unit it had some staining inside on the cardboard. I figured "what the heck, I have the 2 yr warranty, I'll just keep returning these things." In actuality the 2yr extended warranty I purchased was only good for one use (I didn't read the fine print as I should have). BUT... the store manager gave me a full refund of the unit and the warranty cost so I cannot complain, good service on their end.

The splitters were stored inside and I put maybe 3 cords through one and 1 cord through the 2nd one.

Just curious. How long did the HF 7-ton last? What caused its demise (i.e., was it lovingly cared for and lightly used, or overworked and undermaintained, or somewhere in the middle?)
 
Sidenote: Ramsplitter apparently does better building splitters than they do with spelling. Their dealer locator page misspells the names of 5 of our 50 states. (Verginia, Navada, etc.)
 
  • Like
Reactions: MasterMech
That's unfortunate and puts a bad spin on (hopefully) a good product. I guess I'm going off the reviews of fellow homeowners on this one.
Sidenote: Ramsplitter apparently does better building splitters than they do with spelling. Their dealer locator page misspells the names of 5 of our 50 states. (Verginia, Navada, etc.)
 
I sometimes tow my Electric RamSplitter out into the woods to split on site. It will not run off my Yamaha 2000W Inverter Genny (rated 16 amps at 120V) but runs just fine on my old B&S 4000W.
You really do need a 20 amp supply for the 16 ton RamSplitter.
The thing is solidly built and rugged.

I don't recommend the 4 way splitting option. Mine won't split anything worthwhile when using that.
 
Alright, I mainly split onsite but I do have a 4200 watt generator if need be. I guess I'll buy some 12 gauge wire, 20a circuit breaker, 20a outlet, and some ATF fluid and be on my way.
 
If you are using an extension chord longer than 20 feet, you'll need to use 10 gage minimum. I've used 2x 50 feet of 10 gage chords ok but always had trouble with 12g extension chords.

The real beauty of the RamSplitter is the flexibility. You can split in the woods and in the basement with the same device.
I also don't miss buying gas, oil and doing maintenance either.
 
Crap, so new 12g wire in the breaker panel (no biggie), 20a circuit breaker (no biggie), 20a outlet (no biggie), 10g x 25 or 50 foot extension cord ($$$). Damnit!
 
Try it first and see if you can get away with 12 g extension chords. You can always buy 10g chords later if needed.
 
Crap, so new 12g wire in the breaker panel (no biggie), 20a circuit breaker (no biggie), 20a outlet (no biggie), 10g x 25 or 50 foot extension cord ($$$). Damnit!


Maybe not. If your electrical service allows for a 220 outlet , my similar splitter would only draw 10 amps through the wire/breaker. It is easy to rewire the motor, couple of minutes. I really like my electric splitter, but even in the summer, with ATF for hydraulic fluid, a 20 amp breaker would not hold at startup. ( I might have a larger motor, supplied several years ago.) 220v solved all problems. You can switch in on when it is below zero if needed.

I use it with a 5000 watt generator, no problems at all.

Great splitter.
 
Well this splitter won't be moving around much, so perhaps a rewire to 220v would be advisable since folks won't really be borrowing it much. But I'd have to snip off the 110v plug and put on a new 220v plug of some sorts? Like a dryer plug perhaps? And install a dryer outlet next to my panel? Actually.... I'd match the outlet to the female outlet on my 4200 watt generator just in case I every wanted to be mobile. Argh... not that well versed in all things electrical.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MasterMech
Well this splitter won't be moving around much, so perhaps a rewire to 220v would be advisable since folks won't really be borrowing it much. But I'd have to snip off the 110v plug and put on a new 220v plug of some sorts? Like a dryer plug perhaps? And install a dryer outlet next to my panel? Actually.... I'd match the outlet to the female outlet on my 4200 watt generator just in case I every wanted to be mobile. Argh... not that well versed in all things electrical.

A 30-Amp locking plug & receptacle might be a good way to go.
Lowes & HD electrical dept. Matching the 220/230V generator is a good idea.
 
Would it be smart to run a killawatt meter on my whole house (100a service) to see what I am drawing? If I run the dryer, plus the A/C, plus the splitter I could have problems?
 
You can always make your own 20amp cord out of 12g Rome. Attach a plug on one end and a receptacle on the other.
 
Would it be smart to run a killawatt meter on my whole house (100a service) to see what I am drawing? If I run the dryer, plus the A/C, plus the splitter I could have problems?

Unless every light in the house is on, the wife is doing her hair, the cat is making toast, and all 4 dogs are watching TV in both home theatres, I think you'd be fine. ;)

Is the AC a 120V window unit or a 240V central air system? Remember that your 100A service is 100A @ 240V, so a 7-8 amp laod from a 120V window unit would only be a 3.5A load on your 240V service. Either way, I think you would be fine even with the dryer, AC and splitter rolling.

I highly advise the 240V re-wire with twist lock style plugs. The most $$ part of that will be buying the plugs. L14-20P and L14-20R are very common as they are also commonly used as generator plugs. (5000 watt gensets and smaller)
 
My HF 7-ton splitter is gone and buried, time to move on to something that will last.

I've decided on the HV16 from Ramsplitter, hopefully 110v:
http://www.ramsplitter.com/pages/splitters/r16ton.html

I have 100 amp service to my house and a 15a breaker plus 15a outlet literally 4 inches from my panel on the garage wall. I have a 15a rated, 12 gauge, 50 foot extension cord.

I was looking to confirm what the electrical requirements are for this particular splitter.

The average lows for my area are in the 20s (keep in mind that is overnight) in the Winter. I've read about folks having to convert their motors to 220V due to cold starting, but I hope my weather requires this.

I'm also interested on what sort of hydraulic fluid I'd need for this splitter as I cannot find any manually online.

Thanks!



I have a question about electric versus gas splitters.
I looked at an electric Ram Splitter and called customer service with a question and they did not have an answer and gave me tech support which turned out to be a disconnected number.
If all of the components are identical except for the power supply
How can a 1.5 HP motor have the same cycle time and also produce 16 tons of force as a 6 HP gas motor?

6 HP Subaru Gasoline engine
1.5 HP High Torque Electric Motor

Pump 11 GPM
Log Opening 20"
Cylinder 3.5" x 18" Stroke with 1.25" Rod
Beam Size 4" x 2" EW Rec Tube
Cycle Time Appox. 9 Seconds Complete Cycle
Wedge Height 7"
Splitting Force Appox. 16 tons
 
Apparently there is some magic multiplier applied to electric motors when comparing to traditional engines. I wish I knew more.
 
is it cause electric has more torque and torque is where the work is done??
 
is it cause electric has more torque and torque is where the work is done??
Partially, and also it's in the way HP is calculated for gas engines. HP for small gas engines is calculated in much the same way as a politician's tax return: Optimism and fantasy combined with shards of whatever is left of the truth.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bioman
I gotta ask. If you have to buy 12g wire, breaker & outlet, can you just run a whole new circuit & install the new outlet closer to where the splitter with run? And would that allow you to run a shorter 12g extension cord? This would only cost more if you have to run in conduit.
 
Sidenote: Ramsplitter apparently does better building splitters than they do with spelling. Their dealer locator page misspells the names of 5 of our 50 states. (Verginia, Navada, etc.)

They aren't so neat at building splitters either if you ask me. The workmanship on mine equals the proof reading on that web page. Welding splatter buggering up the threads for the vent cap and needing to file off other welding blobs before I could put it together.

As for electricity, I run mine on a 20 amp outlet using two 50' 10 gauge cords, no problems whatsoever. The pump has something like a 14 gauge lead on it. I'm far away from it so I'm going from memory here.
 
As for electricity, I run mine on a 20 amp outlet using two 50' 10 gauge cords, no problems whatsoever. The pump has something like a 14 gauge lead on it.
x 2
 
Status
Not open for further replies.