Tractor Users - Using any special attachments?

When I start getting pole wood I think a grapple of some sort will come in handy. Pull each pole from the pile and hold it while I buck it up.

On our JD 4600 tractor, I swap out the front end bucket for 42" pallet forks when I want to move long logs.
http://www.everythingattachments.co...ks-1PF-JD-4-p/cal-pallet-forks-std-1pf-jd.htm

Front end rock/brush grapple is on the wish list for moving logs.

Do they make an attachment for the back to hook up to the pto for splitting. Might be a viable option

Yes, there are 3-point log splitters that can run off a PTO pump instead of the tractor's hydraulics.

more than anything else, a really good bucket loader- and a tractor big enough to really make use of a loader- will be really handy for moving and lifting more things than you ever thought of until you had the loader.

Good point, pybyr.

hiker88, make sure to check the front end loader (FEL) load ratings, PTO horse power, hydraulic flow rate (in GPM), 3-point load limit, and total tractor weight (important when towing/skidding and lifting) when you're shopping. Some implements/attachments you may want to use require certain minimum ratings. Also, a front bucket only requires two hydraulic functions, but a "third function" hydraulic line and control is required if you wish to operate something like a front grapple.

I made a set of forks out axle shafts. I cut the logs into manageable lengths and fork them to the stacking area. Buck the logs on the forks, split and stack. I never actually lift a (large) round, just roll them to the splitter. Works great for me.

FEL is also useful to lift the log to get your saw out of a pinch when you forget your wedges.

TreePointer said:

On our JD 4600 tractor, I swap out the front end bucket for 42" pallet forks when I want to move long logs.
http://www.everythingattachments.co...ks-1PF-JD-4-p/cal-pallet-forks-std-1pf-jd.htm

Front end rock/brush grapple is on the wish list for moving logs.

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+1 on pallet forks mine get used more than the loader bucket. A grapple bucket would be good too but are a good bit more money.

Grapple buckets are awesome. Box blade with rippers are good for making trails. PTO winch if you are really dreaming big.

+1 on forks. I will also say a snow blower is way better than plowing. My dads is a three point, but my uncles is a front blower, which i could definitely see benefits to. You'll want a back blade or box blade. Both have benefits. A brush hog is nice, but only if you need it. Lastly, you may want a counterweight for the three point. That way if you get a little ambitious with the logs... My dad's is a 55 gallon drum that they put 3 point fittings in then filled it with concrete.

hiker88 said:

Can the third hydraulic function be added later, or does it need to be a part of the tractor when you buy it? I assume with a grappler it would be used to open and close the jaws?

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Yes, third function hydraulics may be added later. Yep, for opening/closing the jaw.

Here's a grapple bucket demonstration:
(I have no connection whatsoever to this company. It's a good video.)

hiker88 said:

Can the third hydraulic function be added later, or does it need to be a part of the tractor when you buy it? I assume with a grappler it would be used to open and close the jaws?

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There are a couple ways to do it. It's actually pretty rare on these small machines to have 3rd function circuit built in to the loader. More likely you would run soft lines (hoses) along the loader boom and plug them into a rear remote valve. Most things like this can be added post purchase if you desire.

One more thing to consider with loader lift capacities is the load center and how high you need to lift the load. Most loaders are rated for capacity at the pivot pin. The spec you would be most interested in would be the capacity at a 24" load center (for use with pallet forks). Also, a loader that will lift XXXXlbs to full height will lift quite a bit more to 6 ft or so.

And especially for loader work with long and potentially unstable loads like logs, I cannot stress the importance of proper ballast enough. Just filling tires or wheel weights is not near enough for most machines when operating near capacity. 3 pt hitch counterweights ("ballast box") are a must. They not only keep the rear end planted but also take a lot of weight ( and wear) off that expensive front axle assembly.

I use my ballast box as a poor mans skid plate. run the chain from the drawbar up and over the box, back up to the log, throw the chain around the log, lift and go.

I will never be without a grapple bucket now that I've ran one that's why I have 2. Forks are great to have as well.
I have one tractor that's set up as MM describes and one with the factory 3rd function on the joystick, it's not a deal killer IMO.
A ROPTS and proper ballasting is a must for safety!

I was where you are, not that long ago, but with the advantage of several friends with similar tractors to guide me. I went with a front end loader, ballast box, Woods SB64S snowblower (make sure to add rearward lighting under ROPS), a drawbar, and plenty of chain, and one log choker. You can drag logs out of the pile with the drawbar, choker, and chain, or chain the smaller ones to the loader bucket to lift and move. A fork attachment for the FEL would be nice, but my bucket is not quick change, and the forks designed to attach to a bucket are a joke. Light snow is just cleared with the FEL, while heavy snow is moved with the SB64S. Ballast box makes for safer lifting of heavy material.

I use the FEL bucket for grading loose stuff, or bolt on a tooth bar for tearing into compacted stuff. I'd like to have a rear blade or box blade for grading, as well, but settle for renting or borrowing those less used attachments.

I also bought a Herd M12 spreader, a plug aerator (42"... Too small!), and a 25 gallon boom sprayer, for yard maintenance.

hiker88 said:

I wonder if it would be a good plan to approach this by looking for the smallest tractor that could safely handle a grappler?

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Get the biggest tractor you can afford that is useful to you. Weight/traction is king and a small tractor with a grapple bucket is going to be great for moving one split at a time but not much help when you really need a tractor.

All the attachments are really only as powerful as the tractor they are attached to.

HP in a small machine is great for mowing, chippers, etc. But for pulling logs and loader work you need a heavy machine (for traction) with big hydraulic pump. (for loader cycle times)

I'm not sure if this goes without saying, so I'll just say it, but get 4wd. You won't regret it.

lukem said:

I'm not sure if this goes without saying, so I'll just say it, but get 4wd. You won't regret it.

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It's worth saying again.

I've done lots of clearing and firewood work with my 30 hp machine. The loader can quickly get you flipped over when messing with logs. For firewood work, or actual logging I use drawbar and chains. Choke the log and then lift the bit end so that you can skid the log to the deck. Then use the loader to shove the deck together. The tractor becomes a big skidder.

On pto splitters. Don't bother. Those with experience will have a standalone splitter and may use the bucket for moving splits but the tractor stays in the barn.

Land clearing operations are different. You will use the loader or grapple a lot more.

My ideal machine is 25 - 30 hp diesel, 4wd, removable front end loader, turf tires (6-ply on front for loader), hydro trans, cat.1 hitch. Wait... that's what I bought!