new pellet insert - outlet in firebox or outside?

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Cheeks

Member
Nov 18, 2012
79
MA
I am having the Hampton/Regency GCI60 pellet insert installed next week. The installer asked if my electrician is done his work. I had no idea what he was talking about initially but learned that many people put the electrical source to the pellet stove inside the firebox. This hides the cord and I guess is better aesthetically.

Are there any other reasons to do this besides hiding the cord. And any reasons not to do it besides avoiding the cost of an electrician and keeping easy access to the cord if it's in a nearby outlet?

I know there is a lot of personal preference to this but if 10 people tell me the cord bothered them so much they got the electrical work done after installation, i might consider it.

Thanks for any input.
 
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In the case of an emergency (God willing nothing will ever happen), but I would prefer it to not be behind the stove. If the control box were to Chit the bed, and the stove started doing Whacky Things?? I'd like to be able to pull the plug. Literally.

I agree with Scott, if you can get it down the ash trap and somewhere in the basement? (Assuming there is one) you will still have access to plug.
 
we don't have an ash trap in the firebox.
 
I am having the Hampton/Regency GCI60 pellet insert installed next week. The installer asked if my electrician is done his work. I had no idea what he was talking about initially but learned that many people put the electrical source to the pellet stove inside the firebox. This hides the cord and I guess is better aesthetically.

Are there any other reasons to do this besides hiding the cord. And any reasons not to do it besides avoiding the cost of an electrician and keeping easy access to the cord if it's in a nearby outlet?

I know there is a lot of personal preference to this but if 10 people tell me the cord bothered them so much they got the electrical work done after installation, i might consider it.

Thanks for any input.
I've got mine inside the fireplace and never had a problem. I did this for aesthetic reasons only.
 
my cord runs out the side to the outlet on the left. i'ts barely noticable after some 'bend training' to get it to follow the brick.

I wouldn't bother IMO. lots of money, and ruins your brick should you ever want to burn in the fireplace as a fireplace 20 years later.
 
We've decided to do just that, Briansol. We already have cords showing from the tv/cable on the mantel and don't need any other costs at this point.
Thanks for all the replies!
 
if you look at my 'full' avatar, you can see my ups just to the left of the stove as well. that's where it all plugs in.

9602.jpg

I've yet to find a better home for it. it don't want it on the rug, as it gets hot.
 
Have you calculated how long you can run your fan (high? low?) off the UPS during a power outage?

if you look at my 'full' avatar, you can see my ups just to the left of the stove as well. that's where it all plugs in.

9602.jpg

I've yet to find a better home for it. it don't want it on the rug, as it gets hot.
 
Yup, assuming its already running (ie, not using igniter) it will run my stove for about 50 minuets on medium (3/5) (I never use high... 4 once in a blue moon) The auger takes the most draw, not the fans.

it also has a 10 min left warning beep. this gives me time to shut down and get the smoke out of the house before its fully dead.... or if I think it's going to be for the long haul, about an hour to start up the generator and plug everything in.
plus, I can simply plug the ups into the generator and the stove never needs to be shut off. I can take my time moving plugs around. Plus, it even acts as an (almost) 'pure sine' modifier. you can run a crappy gen set into the ups and the ups outputs better sine waves so the equipment is safe. click the link to the pdf in my sig to learn more.

plus it acts as a power strip/surge suppressor, which you want anyway.

it doesn't have enough juice to ignite it though. It will, but its dead in 4 minuets. too much juice.

and if you REALLY get creative, you CAN hook up a couple 200ah marine deep cell batteries to it which would buy you almost a day of use. of course, you can't/shouldn't charge these via the ups. and you'll void warranty. But if you grab a couple solar panels and a charge controller, you can keep rotating batteries in and out for a 'sandy/snowpocolypse' situation without ever burning a drop of gas that was impossible to come by.... It gets expensive quickly though (200 for a battery, 300 for a controller, some wires, panels, etc etc etc) and which point, its cheaper to just get a 3500 watt champion from Costco for $350 bucks. run the stove, your fridge and some lights.

it was the best $180 bucks I spent on the stove. you're going to spend 50+ on a good surge suppressor anyway.... might as well spend a few bucks more and protect your investment and by some time when the idiot hits the light post, or a t-storm knocks you down for a half hour, or buys you time to get the gen set out and up without the house ever losing a single degree.
 
Hrmm, I have an insert, but it's wood, so no auger. If a snowstorm knocks out power I was planning on just rocking the insert and perhaps remove the surround, thus no electricity, but your post gives me something to think about.
 
Sorry, but I don't follow that post at all..... you have a wood stove, not a pellet stove now??? ??confused??
 
I'm not the OP, I just chimed in with how the blower on my wood insert was run (ash door)
 
yup... missed that one. heh

your wood stove requires power? I thought they will still work without it
 
My insert still works, just the blower would not work and thus would not pump out as much heat. It'd heat my living room, unsure about the rest of the house.
 
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