Door Gasket

I would, it is a relatively cheap fix. I think you can do a better job on the ends, just take your time cutting the gasket and getting the gasket sealant on it.

Your manual will tell you what size door gasket to use, but if you have an Ace Hardware or a stove shop near by you can cut off a piece of it and take it with you to match up if you can't find the size. Ace sells the Rutland gaskets which is what I have bought and have had no issues with.

Cheaper to find out what size door gasket it is and buy it from a stove shop, most will help you find it, it is easy to take out, just get a flat head screw driver and pry it out, measure the length, when you buy some get an extra foot.

"So I hammered it to make it more flat and tried the dollar bill test. It wouldn't budge."

-Gasket would not be the issue in this case, i glanced at your manual, and it does not mention door fitting. I would carefully examine how the door is hinged and latched, to see if you could CAREFULLY (without hammering) adjust the door.

Post some more pictures of the latch and hinges for ideas.

I would suggest NOT replacing the gasket until you figure out how the door can be adjusted to stove frame.

Nonetheless, the gaslet looks like graphite impregnated material. If you go with Rutland make sure you get the kit with the BLACK cement.

whiskeypete said:

It just lists a part number, which costs $40 for 7 feet of gasket online. Does that sound about right. Or is it cheaper to just find out what kind of gasket it is and go to a stove shop

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40 bucks for 7 ft of door gasket is highway robbery unless a lot of that cost is shipping (and its still too high)

looking at your pic, i do not see an issue worth sweating, your stove face shows a little air has been getting through that "butted end" area, but they all do that to some extent. i say let it rock, just maybe carefully trim a few of the frayed end with a good pair of fabric scissors

BrotherBart said:

Looks more like that air is coming from the airwash than the door gasket.

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ya, thats what im seeing, but its seeping a little , see the shiny black streak just above where the butted ends meet?

i still think its a "non starter" i wouldn't worry about such a small leak just yet

that small a leak ain't gonna cause any warpage, my guess is the warp was in it from day one, but the gasket should seal the slight bit here, seriously (to the OP) the small seep you have here did not warp that area

whiskeypete said:

It just lists a part number, which costs $40 for 7 feet of gasket online. Does that sound about right. Or is it cheaper to just find out what kind of gasket it is and go to a stove shop

Click to expand...

My Jotul dealer told me there isn't anything special about gaskets. Just get the right width and you're good.

I think the OE gaskets are the high-density type, whereas the Rutlands and stove shop stuff are a looser weave, which doesn't seal as well. If you've got a small piece of left over gasket around, you might try cutting a small piece and gluing it into the gap at the ends of the door gasket with some high-temp silicone. The silicone should also keep the door gasket from unraveling further. Put some paper between the patch and the door frame to make sure any glue that seeps out doesn't stick to the door frame and pull the gasket loose.