Safest way to section this tree?

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kingston73

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Feb 10, 2011
172
SE MA
I had a picture but accidentally deleted it so I'm just going to try describing this. I have a tree that partially fell over during a heavy rain storm a few weeks ago. It's leaning far over and the end is about a foot above my head. I'm wondering what the safest way to go about cutting it up is? Should I start at the base and get the tree on the ground first? Try sectioning 1 piece at a time (would require holding the saw above my head for some of the length)? Suggestions welcome.

To add some details I just thought of, it's not leaning ON anything, it's just hanging out over grass, and it's on relatively level land.
 
I'd start at the top too, but if you're not comfortable cutting overhead drop that section then cut into rounds.
 
Is the top over your head because branches are holding it up? Or is it an uproot with the roots still holding the tree up and it possibly wanting to spring back if you unload it?

Big difference in how you approach it depending on what is holding it up.
 
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Start right where you can cut level not above your head, notch the bottom then cut through.
The saw might bind a little. Safer than holding the saw up over your head for initial cut.
 
The tree will want to stand back up (most likely) so the more weight you take off the crown the higher it will get. I would never recommend using a chainsaw above your head to anyone who has to ask how to cut a tree (no offense). If you can cut it near the root ball and drop it to the ground that would be the best way to do it.

Cut it from the top...a bottom cut will result in a pinched bar. It will probably want to split on you...should not be an issue thought...but could surprise you if you weren't expecting it.

Disclaimer: Lukem's tree felling advice is for entertainment purposes only. Chainsaws are dangerous. Always wear proper PPE. Never cut a tree.
 
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No offense taken. I'm not exactly new to using a chainsaw but I've only either taken an upright tree down or cut up an already fallen tree, this is a new situation for me. I'll start at the top and take pieces off as I go, I don't think this thing is going to be popping back up. The roots are nearly pulled free, I'm actually surprised it didn't fall all the way.
 
Don't underestimate the weight of the root ball. Roots don't really pull it up...all the dirt weight does.
 
The messiest situation for yardwork is a giant rootball sticking half out of the ground. With the tree still attached.
If you have decided to not try to save the tree (guidewires and staking) I'd go with getting it down on the ground first. The whole tree. lol...minus the roots.
Roots can act like rubber bands so be careful.
 
Wish I hadn't got rid of the picture, the root ball's pretty small and it looks like the roots were right at the surface, there's really not much above the ground besides the bare roots.
 
I would never give directions without seeing the tree first. For sure you have to look at the tree and determine where the stresses are before you can determine where to start cutting. You really have to know what is going to happen to that tree when you cut it. For example, you might stand on the wrong side of the tree and have that thing coming at you. That you do not want. You also have to be aware of the root ball problem. But no, directions should not be given without seeing the tree.
 
Please get an experienced tree cutter person to come and look or to help you. I've nearly killed myself thinking I was doing the logical thing. It seems every situation is a different scenario that is best left to the experienced person.
 
You never even mentioned what kind of tree it was.. Evergreen, Deciduous?
 
I had a picture but accidentally deleted it so I'm just going to try describing this. I have a tree that partially fell over during a heavy rain storm a few weeks ago. It's leaning far over and the end is about a foot above my head. I'm wondering what the safest way to go about cutting it up is? Should I start at the base and get the tree on the ground first? Try sectioning 1 piece at a time (would require holding the saw above my head for some of the length)? Suggestions welcome.

To add some details I just thought of, it's not leaning ON anything, it's just hanging out over grass, and it's on relatively level land.

I agree that we should at least see the tree. I'll try to offer a bit of advice but the first would be to have someone experienced with you.

IN GENERAL, I try to cut from the top end of the tree, especially if it's hanging free and not under any compression. I would cut about even with head level. If it's hanging free you can cut straight down through. If not, cut down a little and finish with an up cut. This should prevent the bar from getting pinched. Clear limbs away first, so you're just dealing with the trunk.

Now when the section is cut, it will have to go somewhere. Examine it carefully before cutting to see if there are any forces that could bring it toward you, or make it roll.

Once you've got that down, I just cut 18-20" rounds up to the root. Others have mentioned the tree coming back up, and that is definitely something you need to be aware of. Just go slow and be super observant of any movement of the tree. Make sure you can back up fast if something unexpected happens.

Now I've cut many trees like you describe and these are rules I always follow. Again, having someone experienced around as you're tackling this would be a big help and much safer. And we would love to see some before and after pics!
 
I agree with the posters who say to have an experienced guy there.

That said, if you cut the top, look out; When you cut it free it can load the weight on the top branches as they hit the ground, catapulting the bottom of the cut section back toward the base of the tree (and you.)

If you cut toward the root ball, cut from the bottom first, but get out before the bar gets pinched. Then cut from the top about two inches further from the root ball, leaving a hinge of sorts even though you don't have a wedge cut on the bottom.
 
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My advice: this is at the very least a two potter - as in two pots of coffee while walking around and around the culprit attempting to identify all of the ways this might want to bite back. Hopefully you are a one pot per day guy so this process is stretched out over a couple days before the saws even come out. I have a lot of doozies that are really big or nasty leaners out back(all dead ash) that I leave for ma nature and really enjoy seeing them on the ground after a decent storm. It would really help to have the pics reloaded if at all possible.
 
After this much head-scratching, I'd be inclined to call a pro to at least just put it on the ground and let you take it from there. I've had my share of close calls and been lucky so far. But you never know when you're luck will run out.
 
Just a bottom branch stub opposite you can throw what you thought a straight drop of a big trunk into your legs as the stub hits the ground... Lots of surprises await the unsuspecting cutter... Can you get some pictures walking around the tree so we could see all sides of the tree?
 
Something is keeping the tree from falling all the way to the ground. You need to figure out what it is.

I generally start from the top, remove any part of the tree that appears safe to cut, and watch the tree carefully in case it shifts. The trunk comes last.
 
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