Wood port design advice needed

I live in a part of the Pacific Northwest that gets 60+ inches of rain a year and also sees some occasional high winds. In my early wood burning days, I tried covering my wood pile with tarps but they quickly developed holes and seemed to trap more water than they kept out!

Last year I covered my wood pile with plywood and that worked a little better, but it was quite a chore to get wood from the pile. I only have a little space in the garage to hold wood for current season burning, so I had to wrestle the plywood several times during the winter to replenish my burn pile.

I had hoped to built a proper wood shed this summer, but simply ran out of time. So now I have scaled back my goals and just want to build a port around the existing wood pile. Since this is intended to be a temporary solution (1-2 seasons only), I would like to use 2x4 lumber and a few post bases that I have laying around. My main investment would be some 3'x5' metal roofing panels that I found on Craig's List.

So, with that long introduction, here are my questions:
- will the structure in the attached drawing work if built with 2x4 lumber (rather than having to buy bigger dimensional lumber?)
- the port would be 11' or 12' long and 4' deep, but how high should I make it?
- if the roof cross-beams are 2' on center then the metal sheets will have 6" unsupported on either end -- is that a problem?
- do you think this structure will be solid enough to withstand 50 mph gusts?
- any other construction suggestions?

Thanks, as always, for sharing your hard earned wisdom!

Thanks, everyone, for the helpful feedback. The post bases (www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Concrete-Pier-Block-with-Metal-Bracket-8053112/202820094#.UlWLqVCkqrs) have a metal bracket and weigh 62 pounds apiece, so do you think that will keep the port from becoming airborne? Right now the piers are sitting on the ground, but I could bury them if that would make a difference.

The diagonal bracing makes sense but I can't figure out the attachment given that the roofing panel supports will be tilted to match the roof pitch. I have looked at some of the other sheds built by forum members, but they all seem to use more layers of framing -- beams, then rafters, then purlins. Please look at the attached end view of the shed and let me know if I need to do something differently. I have framed walls before, but never a roof!

Unfortunately, I'm building around an existing wood pile which is sitting on concrete blocks. So I can't really get pallets under the pile without moving all the wood back and forth.

We don't get much snow here anymore, but the wind is definitely a concern. I have looked at a bunch of shed designs and haven't seen a single one that uses the same minimalist design. Is that because it is a bad idea?

I looked at the TNT carport design and they also use the rafter and purlin approach. I'm no engineer, but I'm assuming that there is a reason for all those overlapping layers. It will take a lot more lumber, but I guessing it is the right thing to do.

So, here are new drawings using more traditional roof construction: 2x6 beams, 2x4 rafters 2' on center, and 1x4 purlins also 2' on center. The dimensions will be 12' long, 4' deep, and 7.5' high in the front and 6.5' high in the back. I have also added the diagonal bracing that many of you recommended.

If only the actual construction process were as easy as it is in SketchUp. Suddenly my simply port has gotten quite complex. Please let me know if there is anything else I should add/change. Thanks!

Thanks Oregon -- perhaps we are neighbors?

Here is the next version of the design. A few things I am still trying to figure out:
- how high should the shed be? As a vertically challenged person, I wouldn't expect to stack the wood higher than 6'.
- what is a good pitch for the metal roof? If I go 4:12 then perhaps 7' in front and 6' in back?
- which parts of the shed should be pressure treated lumber?
- some of the sheds on this forum have a small pitched front overhang -- is this hard to construct and is it worth doing?
- for those with metal roofs, did you use roofing felt to combat condensation?

Thanks for your patience with all my questions!

Thanks for the feedback fellas! I will definitely bury the piers and use hurricane ties. Wind is an issue here, and lots of rain, which when combined with the wind can make you feel like you are in a carwash , but snow not so much anymore (famous last words?).

As for going wider, I can't do that since this will be in the side yard which is quite tiny. Also I bought the metal roofing panels yesterday and they are only 5' long. I have six of these 3' wide panels and will be using four to start to create the 12' long shed. If I need more storage later, I was thinking I could do a 6' wide extension. But then I saw Stejus' design (https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/finally-i-have-a-wood-shed.100633/) and now I'm thinking I could use the last two panels (each cut in half) to create a nice 2.5' overhang. I'm just not sure if that is too far to cantilever the way Stejus did it (without making full trusses). That would give me some more rain protection, but would it hold up without a lot more framing?

Okay, just one more picture with the roof assembly shoved back to create a bit of overhang on the back side. Oregon, I will add the cross-bracing -- it's just a bit tricky to draw (and I really should go to bed now!).

Bogydave, thanks for the posting pictures of your shed -- very helpful. Can you tell me how you constructed the cantilever portion and also how high is the shed in the front and back? Thanks again!