How to remove catalyst chamber from Jotul Firelight 12?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Bottom is still needed. The refractory box I got last year was the same as my 19 year old one, so I'm not sure to what Burner is referring. It sits down in front, and the inner rear plate benches up against it. It'll make sense when you get the inner plate installed.

BTW... list price on that chamber was only $250 last year. Might want to get another price on that, before dumping $419.
 
I am not sure that's true. No firelight I've ever seen had that extra piece of refractory sitting in front of the main assembly. It's just been the inner burner plate sitting on the cast iron base. There's even a groove for it to fit into. With that said, if it fits snugly between that plate and the front of the refractory then I look forward to seeing your setup.
 
Burner said:
I am not sure that's true. No firelight I've ever seen had that extra piece of refractory sitting in front of the main assembly. It's just been the inner burner plate sitting on the cast iron base. There's even a groove for it to fit into. With that said, if it fits snugly between that plate and the front of the refractory then I look forward to seeing your setup.
Click to expand...
That's because most, not knowing what it's for, throw it away when it gets damaged. It's very easily damaged. Talk with Jotul tech support (if you're lucky enough to get thru to them), and they'll tell you it's still part of the rig. That's what they told me, anyway.

I will say, though... I'm not sure why it's needed, either! ;lol They told me to use it, so I use it. I figure someone must have had a good reason to add this expensive silly little piece to the design, even if I don't understand what it is.
 
I may have paid too much... I bought it from woodmanpartsplus.com

We today I finished the stove! First off I taped the gasket in per Joful's recommendation.
image.jpg
image.jpg
Next I placed the back plate in from the top being careful not to knock the gasket out of place. Once the plate was seated in its home, I installed the 4 bolts finger tight. Next the bypass damper went in with fresh gasket installed on the damper door and installed the two bolts that hold it in.
image.jpg
Next the top went on with its two bolts.
image.jpg
Now for a custom fireplace cover to hide my tee.
I have yet to receive my top door retainer, log retainers, and catalyst thermometer. Can't wait for come cool weather to show it off! The bottom by the way was used. I placed it as shown in the previous picture and scotched it in with the burn plate. It does, however, seem pointless. Oh well! Someone much smarter than me designed the stove.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
Jotul owners I am curious... What is the foot pedal for?
 
jharkin said:
Jotul owners I am curious... What is the foot pedal for?
Click to expand...

Lifts the top of the stove for loading. I thought it was kind of a novelty when I first bought my firelight 12, but then found it was my primary method for feeding the fire. Jotul no longer offers this as an option I believe.
 
Ahh got it. Interesting way to do it, the VC stoves I'm used to just have a lift handle on the top load door.
 
The pedal is nice, because it both throws open the bypass damper, and lifts the top-load door. They called it "step and load," and it really is just that. They advertise it as a handy method for loading the stove, when you come in with an arm load of wood, as you can just step on the pedal and drop in the arm load of wood. In reality, I place my wood into the stove piece by piece, rather than dropping it in by the armload. But, the pedal is still mighty handy for opening the stove without donning gloves, etc.
 
Do you get smoke intrusion using that control to open the bypass and the door? The reason I ask is because on the encore when you are burning low and slow in cat mode the draft isn't super strong.... when I reload, I usually:
1 - open damper (bypass)
2 - open primary air full
3- wait 3-5 minutes to let the fire heat up and establish a stronger draft
4 - open top door and load.

I found that if I just open the bypass and immediately open the top door I get smoke, except on the coldest deep winter days when the stove was running hard... But then again the Jotul might be a better design than the VC and my chimney is on the shorter side....

Edit to add - It is a neat idea, and would prevent the occasional bonehead open door without opening damper move Ive done ;)


(apologies for thread jack - just curious)
 
Last edited:
When you first press the pedal the bypass door opens up, so I typically press the pedal a little, hear the bypass drop down, wait a couple seconds, then open it all the way. I thought the concept was crazy at first, picturing clouds of smoke dumping into my room every time the peddle was pressed, but it's actually fun to watch the smoke rising towards the open top before getting sucked up the chimney. Really a pretty cool feature, and one that I will miss once my Firelight sells.
 
Yep... what Bluerubi says. I have never had smoke spillage into the room using the pedal or topload door, as the door can't be opened (latched down) unless the bypass is opened first. The only time I get smoke into the room with that stove, is when I forget to open the bypass damper before opening the front doors... which I do way too often. <>
 
Overtime cancelled today; so, on to the next phase of the project: covering the fireplace to hide the tee. I called a local welding shop and asked if they would cut me out a fireplace cover if I provided them a drawing. He said he would and made me this per my sketch:
image.jpg

It's made out of 3/16" steel. I chose the heavy weight steel because I though a flimsy material would look... well, cheap. Also, don't have to worry about warping with the thicker steel. The radius is easy to cut out, as its measured from the center bottom of the plate.
I'm going to fasten it to the brick with countersunk Tapcon screws.
It should look nice! She doesn't like looking at the stainless tee in the fireplace opening. Will post pictures (of better quality) once it's installed.
If anyone wants a drawing, I'd be happy to draw one in AutoCad for you. All I need is the width, height, and how high you want the hole.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks nice. However, if I assume correctly, you're doing rear-exit to a tee, then up? How will you easily access/clean with that plate in place?
 
I like your solution and your helper bentrice. You have the same floor covering that I used in my shop.
 
Joful, you're exactly right. It's going to require the removal of the Tapcons to remove the plate for cleaning. Shouldn't be a big deal, right?
Begreen, that's Abi! She is always right beside me through all of my projects.
 
If you have to remove, I would not use tapcons. They're sort of a once-and-done fastener. Consider putting inserts in the masonry, into which you can thread cap screws or machine screws. The inserts stay in place, when you remove the screws.
 
Beatrice and Joful: Your photos are very helpful and have guided my successful take apart of the Firelight 12. Curious if you remember the width of the gasket to install along the back wall and on the top plate? Thanks Steve
 
Both are 1/4", if I recall. Will verify shortly.
 
Update: I checked my notes and found no mention of the gasket size used, but I believe it was 1/4" braided. In fact, memory tells me everything on this stove is 1/4" braided (not woven), with the exception of the glass, which is 3/16" braided.
 
In other news, I just put on my top door retainer which will make loading so much easier this winter. I also got a soapstone steamer from Vermont Marble that I will post pictures of soon. Oddly enough, I can't wait for it to get cold!
 
bentrice said:
The expensive parts have arrived! I spent a few hours recementing a few spots on the stove which I will not go over unless my method holds up all winter. ;)

I placed the refractory in the stove
View attachment 109924
Placed the brand new SteelCat inside
View attachment 109925
Placed the cover on. And.... Ok what the heck do I do with the $70 piece of refractory? Does it just lay in the bottom of the stove like so:
View attachment 109926
When I bought the stove there was no cat cover or bottom. The cat cover is obvious but the bottom seems odd. Please advise! Sorry for the blurry pic. I'll take a more clear one tomorrow.
Click to expand...
 
what did you do with the bottom ? Mine did not have one either originally and I can not see the way you have it in picture the inner back plate could not line up with access cover bolts using that position
unless its a very narrow piece about 1" deep x 12 " long ? they told me I needed this part too when ordering . I find this very strange and wondering if it works ?? Im going to call and cancel that piece. could cut a thin strip off the old chamber if need be ? ? or does it have specific notches in it to rest in the grooves ? if not I cant see why we cant just use a little of the old piece it will get tossed anyway & save the $70.00 is this not realistic ?
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

T
Time for an upgrade
Replies
50
Views
4K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
Tpaull
T
B
Parts missing from stove in rented house
Replies
1
Views
497
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
stoveliker
stoveliker
H
Replacing 30 year old Encore: New Encore or Jotul Oslo?
Replies
14
Views
934
Vermont Castings
Woodsplitter67
Woodsplitter67
T
Jotul F12 Firelight rear burn plate replacement
Replies
10
Views
1K
Jotul
Ashful
Ashful
MG-70
Newbie looking for suggestions for a basic, reliable, older, stove...
Replies
21
Views
2K
Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)
MG-70
MG-70
Top Bottom
Back