Excited About our Jotul Oslo

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thundar

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Jan 6, 2012
38
SE Ohio
I have been heating with wood for 12 years, using our Clayton 1600G indoor wood furnace. It works great - IF - the temperatures stay below 40 degrees. Above that, it runs us out of the house. So I've been anxious for years to get a wood stove for "shoulder season", and maybe even some of the winter days. We have a circulate feature on our HVAC, which will allow me to pull the warm air from the wood stove to the rest of the house.
You can see from the pictures there is a fireplace - I had to chip out the old hearth with a Bosch power hammer, then we put down tile, as you can see. Our old fireplace was a Heatilator with 8" double-wall pipe, so the installers ran a 6" liner up through that for triple wall protection. I did the first break-in fire last night, went well.
I have been burning wood in a wood stove/wood furnace for a long time, but I know there will be a little learning curve with this new stove. If any of you Oslo owners have tips for good burning temperature, shutting down the air supply, etc., I would appreciate it. Thanks! We're excited!
 

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Congrats on the Oslo. That is one heck of a stove. It should treat you well.
Don't be surprised if the circulate feature doesn't work like you think it should. Much of it has to do with layout. I use mine to "even" the heat, but it doesn't do much for moving it around. It just really mixes the air.
 
Thanks Jags. I know moving warm air (especially moving it down) isn't always easy. But if it evens out the rooms even a little and keeps the room with the stove more comfortable, then I will be happy. Thanks.
 
That is a beautiful stove in a beautiful setting. Did you do that tilework? It is exceptional.
 
Begreen,
I wish I could say I did the tile work, but no, I didn't. I came up with the design layout, and I've laid tile before, but the pattern we wanted to do was too intricate for me. I did all the prep work (removing carpet, chipping out old hearth, etc.) and I also installed some can lights and track lights into the room and into our kitchen as part of the project, as well as installing a new storm door in the room to keep it good and airtight. But the tile I hired out, and, yes, we are very pleased with the way the tile worked out. Thanks for the compliments.
 
Any thoughts anyone on your most efficient burn temperature with the Oslo?
 
thundar said:
I have been heating with wood for 12 years, using our Clayton 1600G indoor wood furnace. It works great - IF - the temperatures stay below 40 degrees. Above that, it runs us out of the house. So I've been anxious for years to get a wood stove for "shoulder season", and maybe even some of the winter days. We have a circulate feature on our HVAC, which will allow me to pull the warm air from the wood stove to the rest of the house.
You can see from the pictures there is a fireplace - I had to chip out the old hearth with a Bosch power hammer, then we put down tile, as you can see. Our old fireplace was a Heatilator with 8" double-wall pipe, so the installers ran a 6" liner up through that for triple wall protection. I did the first break-in fire last night, went well.
I have been burning wood in a wood stove/wood furnace for a long time, but I know there will be a little learning curve with this new stove. If any of you Oslo owners have tips for good burning temperature, shutting down the air supply, etc., I would appreciate it. Thanks! We're excited!
Click to expand...

Nice stove!
 
Love the stove and the tile work! Looks great!
 
thundar said:
Any thoughts anyone on your most efficient burn temperature with the Oslo?
Click to expand...
500-600F should be a good cruising temp, but don't be alarmed if it occasionally goes higher.
 
Great looking hearth! love the tile work. My tips are have very very dry wood. this stove seems extra picky about seasoned wood. Other advice is to never ever use the front door. it makes a focking mess!
 
Thanks guys for the tips, I appreciate it.
 
450-650 F stove top temp . . . seems to be the "cruising" temp for this stove.

There really isn't much to be said about the Oslo . . . it takes a bit to get up to steam, but once underway it delivers a lot of heat. About the only advice I can give you is to shut down the air in incremental steps at first . . . 3/4 and then let the fire take time to settle down before cutting back the air to the halfway mark and giving it some time to settle. Eventually you'll learn your stove and wood supply and may be able to shut it down more quickly . . . and with time and experimentation you'll learn just how much you can close down the air.

Only negative is the front door tends to let a lot of ash fall out on the ash lip if you open it up.

Best tip . . . if your air control lever starts binding up let the stove cool down a bit, open the dog house above the air control lever and liberally apply graphite powder to the slide mechanism and the air control should go back and forth quite easily.
 
Great advice, thanks. I finished my last break in fire Thursday, and got to do my first real extended burn yesterday and last night. Got it up to 400 or so, then started shutting it down incrementally. Got an 8 hour burn last night. Woke up to a nice 72 degree house when it was 31 outside. Loaded the stove this morning and it heated up nicely to 500 degrees, started shutting it down, gradually, and again did real well. Do most of you shut the air completely down on long burns? That's what I did last night.
 
Great looking stove and setting, I really like the inlay arch around it, gives is more character.
 
thundar said:
Great advice, thanks. I finished my last break in fire Thursday, and got to do my first real extended burn yesterday and last night. Got it up to 400 or so, then started shutting it down incrementally. Got an 8 hour burn last night. Woke up to a nice 72 degree house when it was 31 outside. Loaded the stove this morning and it heated up nicely to 500 degrees, started shutting it down, gradually, and again did real well. Do most of you shut the air completely down on long burns? That's what I did last night.
Click to expand...

Really depends on the quality of the wood and the draft . . . but typically I can close it down all the way.
 
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