Having major issues with Quad

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
RayBurner

RayBurner

New Member
Feb 23, 2013
25
Romeo, MI
I had a Quad 5100 installed last January and have had much help from many of you on the forum. (Thanks) I wish I could say the same for Quad.

I've had my door gasket replaced--Nothing.
I've had a new door installed--Nothing.
The dollar bill test still fails.

I have to reload every 2 hours as I'm going through wood like a Sailor goes through whiskey. I have found no way to control a roaring fire. Closing my controls has no affect on my flame.

The latest I've heard from my installer and Rep is that Quad thinks that the wood is too dry. Is there such a thing of wood being too dry? My Moisture Reader says 14-18% on average--which I know is good. I am burning mainly Ash and some Beech and leaving my Oak to dry for 3 years as everyone suggests.

The latest from my Rep is that Quad wants him to come out for a 3rd time to:
1. Take pictures of the size of my splits.
2. Moisture Read my wood

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Unless your splits are the size of of an axe handle, this is disappointing to hear.

What kind of chimney is hooked to this thing? How tall? I'm wondering if you have a monster draft?

Has this been the case since day one? Or did it develop over time?

Does a straight edge sit flat against the frame of the stove where the door contacts?

I'm guessing the door was replaced because they thought it was out of shape or was that just something to try?

Once you get the wood flaming well, where do you run the air control for the duration of the burn?

Very sad to hear a story like this.

pen
 
Is the air control even hooked up..you never know.
Something is not right.
If it was a free stander I would try a flue damper.
That door really needs to pass the dollar bill test or I would demand one that does or my money back.
Hope things work out for you.
Keep us informed!
 
Listen to Pen and place a straight edge, like a ruler, against every place on the face of that stove body that contacts gasket. Been there and had to have another brand of stove replaced.

It ain't too dry wood. It is air.
 
Curious, does the dollar bill test fail at the center of the bottom of the door?
 
RayBurner said:
I have to reload every 2 hours as I'm going through wood like a Sailor goes through whiskey. I have found no way to control a roaring fire. Closing my controls has no affect on my flame.
Click to expand...
how much wood did you put in and what is left after 2hrs?
 
Pen:

The box of my chimney is wood framed that is cultured stoned. The installer put a 23' foot stainless steel 8" flue in.

It has been like this since Day 1.

I will check tonight on the Straight Edge Test.

I run my air controls all the way shut as I don't need any more air and it actually really doesn't matter where they are at.

Bart:

The Dollar Bill Test fails every where on the door.

StoveGuy:

I fill it and after 2 hours I just have coals left. The problem is after 2 hours my thermometer goes from 500ish to 200ish and doesn't heat the house unless I add more wood.
 
Sounds like a door seal issue but also check your baffle to make sure it's in the right position.
 
I doubt your wood is the issue.
If you think it is, try using some of your un-seasoned oak.
If that burns quickly then you eliminated that possibility.
 
My guess is the air control is disconnected. Can you adjust the door latch to make it close tighter?
 
RayBurner said:
I fill it and after 2 hours I just have coals left. The problem is after 2 hours my thermometer goes from 500ish to 200ish and doesn't heat the house unless I add more wood.
Click to expand...
how many pieces of wood would you say you put in? and how close to the tubes in the top of the stove does the wood get?
 
I wonder if the latch mechanism is quirky in the quads. My parents have a 4100 insert and from the factory the latch missed the striker rod (not the right term?) and latched on the actual metal body of the stove.

It was adjusted waaaaaaay to tight from the factory. My father loosened the adjustment it so that it would actually latch on the rod but it was still too tight. The handle snapped off. He replaced the handle and adjusted it again....this time it works perfect.

Sounds like you need adjustment.

When you say it fails the dollar bill test....by how much? Is it super loose or what? If the door isn't closing tight the air control lever will never work right.
 
And I should also mention that my dad had a horrible time of remembering to close the bypass baffle. He always got the levers backwards. He would shut the main air off after the fire got going and then slowly adjust the bypass instead.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

C
Please advise. I am so confused!
Replies
13
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
christhenewbie
C
M
New member, looking for advice on wood insert vs. pellet insert.
Replies
10
Views
429
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
EbS-P
EbS-P
Investment Camper
The Sizzle.
Replies
22
Views
2K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
bigealta
bigealta
R
Do I have a defective stove?
Replies
28
Views
3K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
Trevor Tahclep
Trevor Tahclep
mickey_g
New Liner, Now Backdraft/Downdraft Problem
Replies
30
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
mickey_g
mickey_g
Top Bottom
Back