Installing a new Englander 55-TRP10

Hi all

Took delivery of my new 55-trp10 on Tuesday. I plan on installing it this weekend. Can't wait!

My question is this: the manual call for three screws to be installed into the appliance adapter / blower interface. Where, what type, how long of a screw are people using? Anyone have any pictures they can share? It seems to me I have to drill into the blower outlet for this to work. If this is the case why doesn't Englander pre drill?

Thanks!

Thanks for all the input and the picture with the arrow.

I ended up drilling three holes through the stainless steel and into the aluminum flange off the back of the blower. It was a really loose fit on mine. RTV and screws here.

I also put RTV on each twist lock connection throughout the rest of the exhaust. Overall I was satisfied with the quality and ease of installation of the exhaust. I didn't spring the extra cash for the all stainless version. Hopefully the galvanized version holds up OK.

New Question:

I am running the Duravent kit from HD. Is it supposed to be warm/hot to the touch? The thimble seems to be relatively cool and I followed the mfg's clearance recommendations. Thanks!

slvrblkk said:

Yes, the vent gets hot...as long as you have the proper clearances, you are good to go! BTW, congrats on the new stove!

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Thanks! The wife is excited that the heat won't be set at 62 F this winter You know the saying "a warm wife is a happy wife"

Regarding the pipe: OK. I know it should be obvious but I wasn't sure with the double wall pipe if the intent was that the exterior wall would stay at "warm" to the touch or if it would get hot. I have never burned a pellet stove before, only wood. VERY different animal.

I did my 3 hr "break in" run this afternoon with all the windows open. Glad I did it when it was warm out as the paint did off gas and smell up the house.

We are currently cruising at 71 F at a setting of "3" for the augers and fans.

BrotherBart said:

I handled it using a tee on the back with tee bracket attached to the back of the stove. That adapter ain't gonna move lately.

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Good idea. One these stoves the removable back would make it pretty easy to connect to. BTW, I had to deburr that rear sheet metal panel. I sliced my hand open pretty good when I had it off and managed to cut my OAK hose when I was reinstalling it as the edges were VERY sharp. Had to redo the OAK hose....

slvrblkk said:

I used to have your same stove (25-pdvc) and while short on looks, the thing was a great heater for us.

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I agree. It isn't beautiful but it isn't terrible for a plate steel stove either. I ended up with the nickel trim package instead of the brass. I am hoping it does crank out the heat this winter when it is in the single digits this winter. I was going to get the 25-pdv but am glad I didn't as it would have taken up too much space in the house. For the price so far I am very happy. I took advantage of the fed tax credit and bought it from the scratch and dent pile that I learned about through this site. Thanks!

One thing I like is that it does radiate some heat. It doesn't completely rely on the blower to move the air away from the stove.

The next thing is to figure out what pellet provides the best BTUs / $. I am already committed to Green Supremes as I bought a bunch but plan on trying other brands a few bags at a time, assuming I can find other options.

stoveguy2esw said:

its not uncommon for pipe temps (external) to be in the 140-170 range depending on heat range of the stove. this translates to the walls not being more than slightly warmer than the surrounding walls are. remember the heat passing through the pipe is likely 3 times the surface temp. this is why the type L vent pipe is insulated so it can be still placed at close clearances without risk of radiating too much heat to a combustible wall surface.

oh and dont worry about the "galvie" outer pipe holding up, mine is 9 years old and isn't showing any issues at all, we have pipe we've had installed for far longer than that at our plant and its fine as well.

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Thanks for the input. My new "chimney" looks funny next to the brick one that my woods stove is plumbed into. Kind of like 2 worlds colliding. I will have to post a picture when I have some daylight.

It seemed to me during the install that the recommended exhaust kit was specifically designed to work with 2x4 exterior walls as both my 6" rear clearance and 3" exterior wall clearance worked out perfectly. I also got really lucky with the 2 foot clearance to eves as well.

Any words of wisdom for these stoves? I have seen lots of discussion about tweaking the air/fuel ratio depending on what pellets you are running. Any thoughts?

BTW, my complements to your customer service. The buying and delivery process was painless.

slvrblkk said:

The only few days I had problems is when we have that EXTREME wind and cold. Luckily, we only get a few of those a year. I'll be honest, IMO....those GS aren't that great of a pellet at all. Just try all different brands you can and see what burns best in that beast!

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Yeah....I did some reading on pellets after I bought them....brilliant right? I am kind of disappointed about that, I was excited that it was a local product and was hopeful they were a good choice.

I know with cord wood the big thing is moisture content and there are variations in BTU's species to species. With pellets what make a "good" pellet? Low ash? BTU's? Obviously cost matters.

the lowes near me has green teams for $5.50 a bag (270/ton). might grab a few bags to try them. still cheaper than heating oil!

the local stove store has barefoots for 295/ton, dry creek for 280 and PA Pellets for 270. Honestly haven't heard of any of these, but again, won't mind trying a few bags of each.

when people say they get a lot of ash, what quantifies "a lot" of ash? I am have burned ~15 lbs of pellets and the burn pot has a uniform layer of ash in it, maybe 1/2" deep. is that a lot of ash?