report on new Quadrafire 5700

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c. The return-air inlet shall not be located within ten (10) feet (3048 mm) of any appliance firebox or draft diverter in the same enclosed room or confined space.

Ok now we're being helpful. The return air is the cellar stairwell 12' from the stove. What else… and I sincerely mean that.
 
Show me a manufacturer that sells hoods for wood stoves.

Up until this year. no auto manufacturer sold tires. How many stove manufacturers sell stove pipe. They do not sell hoods perhaps because they are in the business of making and selling stoves?

Can we please stick to what the issue is? You have made the assertion that a hood for a wood stove is unsafe. I'd like to know why.
 
There is a reason for almost every stove manufacturer explicitly warning against ducting their stove. Once homebuilt remedies for poor stove location start getting factored there is no control over safety issues like proximity of the metal duct to combustibles, fusible-link dampers to prevent fire spread, fire detection, etc. This is why almost every stove manual has this explicit warning.

duct 2.JPG duct 3.JPG duct one.JPG
 
Plenty of stove add ons for sale out there by all kinds of different manufactures, but yet a stove hood is lacking from the lineup.... I wonder why.

That is making two of us wondering. The stove is not "ducted" and there is no "connection" to any duct work. The natural convection of the stove is simply being gathered.
 
This is splitting hairs. Send the picture to Quadrafire support and ask if they approve this setup.
 
I was being sarcastic, but you are being for real, which is sad :(

Your not the first "hoodie" to come on here and debate codes and safety of having a hood, and you won't be the last.

Show me a manufacturer that sells Hoods for being used above a Wood Stove, you won't be able to and you know it.

Keep making up excuses like the other "hoodies". I hope it works out for you.
 
There is a reason for almost every stove manufacturer explicitly warning against ducting their stove. Once homebuilt remedies for poor stove location start getting factored there is no control over safety issues like proximity of the metal duct to combustibles, fusible-link dampers to prevent fire spread, fire detection, etc. This is why almost every stove manual has this explicit warning.

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Who says the cellar is a "poor location" It is probably much safer than where many wood stoves are placed as it is surrounded by concrete. The metal ducing is as safely installed as the flue pipe. No manufacturer of anything has any control over what callous way someone uses their product. As they cannot go over all the variables, they issue a blank statement. This statment can be as meaningless or meaningful depending on who is doing what with their product but for litigation purposes, the blank statement prevails.
 
I have been in homes where the people lost brain function due to their having their (coal) stove too close to a heating return - and running the fan full time. They should have known by the black soot gathered all around the return grill.

I don't think many people can afford (or want to) lose brain function for a bit of cheap heat.t
 
The stove is an area heater. Ducting the heat to another location is compensating up for the stove not being in the area where the heat is required. Is the metal ducting touching wood or other combustibles at any point? Is there a fusible link damper at the floor register?

While looking at the installation I had a couple other questions. Is there galvanized pipe being used for the vertical run off the stove? How close is the flue pipe to the 1st floor joists?
 
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I was being sarcastic, but you are being for real, which is sad :(

Your not the first "hoodie" to come on here and debate codes and safety of having a hood, and you won't be the last.

Show me a manufacturer that sells Hoods for being used above a Wood Stove, you won't be able to and you know it.

Keep making up excuses like the other "hoodies". I hope it works out for you.
You like to make "inferences" and I am excusing nothing. You have only related one ( and a far out reason indeed) as to why you seem to think this is a dangerous practice. You have even named us "hoodies" as if we are to be placed in group of nay doers. I have not received one solid answer (excuse me, Be Green did mention the ducting near combustibles) as to why this is an invalid practice and what exactly are the dangers. You seem to want to make it easier on yourself by stating that this is so obvious, I should know this stuff and yet, your concerns are lost on me for real. I do not know of any other "debates". I have seeen much political abuse when it comes to "code building" and take the validity of a code based on common sense rather than to some hereto danger that has happened occasionally or once with no desription of facts. Nothing we do is completely safe. Is having a wood stove in your house more dangerous than the oil fed boiler in your cellar? I have never seen a wood stove catch fire. I have seen flues do so because of creosote ignition. There have been more oil boilers blowing up than wood stoves doing so and yet they sell those, and you must be a pro and certified to install them. Guarantees nothing.
 
The stove is an area heater. Ducting the heat to another location is compensating up for the stove not being in the area where the heat is required. Is the metal ducting touching wood or other combustibles at any point? Is there a fusible link damper at the floor register?

While looking at the installation I had a couple other questions. Is there galvanized pipe being used for the vertical run off the stove? How close is the flue pipe to the 1st floor joists?
Compensation is fine if safely done. Sorry…did not see the rest of your questions. By galvanized pipe do you mean for the duct? There is a metal box beneath the floor register. This box has air clearance on all periphery wood edges as described in installation instructions I also added fire stop board to wood edges. The fathest distance of joists from stove pipe is 18" and is shielded to code (building inspecter approved)
 
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I tell you what, I grant you that your solution works. But, what happens if it fails? Does your vent only allow heat to the upstairs? A vent is a vent whether it is powered or not or attached. That is a Vent within 10 feet of a source of possible harmful gasses. I have already given you ideas to make it safer.

And yes I group you all the same, it is the same round robin of excuses to make yourself feel better about your install.
 
I'm glad that the wood is being protected. This is the galv. pipe I was asking about. Did that pass inspection? Also, there should be a fusible-link damper at the floor penetration.

5700 with galv.jpg
 
I tell you what, I grant you that your solution works. But, what happens if it fails? Does your vent only allow heat to the upstairs? A vent is a vent whether it is powered or not or attached. That is a Vent within 10 feet of a source of possible harmful gasses. I have already given you ideas to make it safer.

And yes I group you all the same, it is the same round robin of excuses to make yourself feel better about your install.
My word Mellow I am not trying to "feel better" about my install. I can give two craps about how I "feel" . I need more assurance than that to reach what I think are safety factors. Harmful gases would be expelled just as easily if this stove were in my living room as it used to be. When you say "if it fails" what are you refering to as a possible "failure"?
 
Up until this point, I did not know what a fusible link damper is or does (actually I still don't but will look it up) Thanks for the advice but please park inferences, snideness, guilt trips and sarcasm at the door. I cannot apologize for getting angry at this kind of demeanor as I will always get angry if on the receiving end of these kind of behaviors.
 
Reading back I think you will see that there has been little snideness or flippancy other than remarks like " don't give a crap about codes" and "coward". The issue here is safety. What you do in your home is your business, but when posting on a public forum as an example of 'look what I did' one has to accept that there will be criticism. There is a larger audience here than just one home. Issues like clearances to combustibles, ducting fumes, galvanized piping used for smokepipe, following code, are real concerns. Thanks for understanding.
 
Reading back I think you will see that there has been little snideness or flippancy other than remarks like " don't give a crap about codes" and "coward". The issue here is safety. What you do in your home is your business, but when posting on a public forum as an example of 'look what I did' one has to accept that there will be criticism. There is a larger audience here than just one home. Issues like clearances to combustibles, ducting fumes, galvanized piping used for smokepipe, following code, are real concerns. Thanks for understanding.
Unfortunately Be Green I cannot see it as you do. I do not think I was "snide" and perhaps a bit flippant but I feel I was mostly direct. My response is usually governed by the reponse of others. I will flare up when i feel i am being treated unfairly and to have someone infer or attempt a guilt trip when they think I'm not listening and that I am putting my home and safety of my family in jeopardy without telling me why is unnecessary and undesirable. Sometimes there is an element of fake civility that is not civil at all. I on the other hand tend to be more direct. Stick with the facts please as you have done most of the time . I am not privy to ongoing debates of this subject. I do think "crappily" of certain codes as I know their manifest at times has been anything but for the safety of the populace but more for the control grab of vendors attached to government coziness correlating to profit creating. I really see little wrong in what i have done at my house. It is not as if I am espousing not to use seat belts and basically I'm not espousing anythig. i'm telling what i did. I've done it for 8 years and a freind of mine has done it this way for 25. There will always be remarks and I can take the critical ones as long as the subject is stuck to. But I need facts and not scare tactics, then see if those facts are pertinent to my situation and not be judged negatively as a result. This is a learning forum. Too many times things are painted with a broad brush and details that would make all the difference in the world go amiss lending for the frailties of our species to emerge. That condition is the birth place of prejudice.
 
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The fact is that heat over time can pyrolyze wood. What works for one person doesn't work for another. Every install has its own set of variables. Because of this it behooves us to err on the side of safety.

I had a friend that rode his cycle without a helmet. Managed to do that for 5 years. Then he was hit by a drunk driver. Now he is dead, crushed skull. The meaning - chit happens. You don't do all safety measures for ordinary circumstances. Like the seatbelt example, you do them to protect for when the extraordinary happens.

Was the current set up as shown in the picture what the building inspector saw?
 
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yes but 8 yrs ago. As far a pyrolization I take it you mean the decomposition of wood structure? A valid point but tell me where with what I have done this would occur?
 
yes but 8 yrs ago. As far a pyrolization I take it you mean the decomposition of wood structure? A valid point but tell me where with what I have done this would occur?

Short term pyrolysis is stated to start at 200-300C. There have been examples of long term pyrolysis happening around hot water pipes in contact with wood. Obviously the temp not exceeding 212F.

Knowing for a fact that your install is not code compliant (irrelevant of your feelings on code), I cannot even venture a guess if you do/don't fall into a pyrolysis capable situation. There simply is no precedent in the NFPA211 to compare to. And I double dang gar-own-tee that your owners manual has no approved install of this type.
 
Short term pyrolysis is stated to start at 200-300C. There have been examples of long term pyrolysis happening around hot water pipes in contact with wood. Obviously the temp not exceeding 212F.

Knowing for a fact that your install is not code compliant (irrelevant of your feelings on code), I cannot even venture a guess if you do/don't fall into a pyrolysis capable situation. There simply is no precedent in the NFPA211 to compare to. And I double dang gar-own-tee that your owners manual has no approved install of this type.

So it was 8 yrs ago and now its not? Again, what is the problem with my install? And what has changed to make it non compliant? I have heard about wood pyrolization, duct combustible entities and damper fuses along with co detectors all concepts I can atleast wrap my head around. It cannot be an issue of fumes or else there would be no allowance of wood stoves within houses ( A condition I think we may be moving toward at this rate) It cannot be a "funnel" for emerging fire out the stove. CO is going to happen whether you have your stove in your living space or in the cellar with a hood over it. It cannot be they are afraid of some yokel nit wit screwing up an installation because like bearing children, any nit wit can buy a wood stove…so why is it "code" non compliant? Why is anyone whether is the government or stove manufacturer dissapproving of this type of appliance? I have never been a "because they said so" type of person. By the way, I just shot the heat in the register right in the register. 117*. Flooring 2" from register is 70*. Stove is 3 hrs into load. I have also shot this at high or hot fire. 155* in register, 75* flooring.
 
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I have never been a "because they said so" type of person.

You asked a question about pyrolysis and I answered. There IS NO answers about your install (concerning pyrolysis) because there is no precedent for your install.

I have no interest in arguing the validity of code. It is what it is until someone wishes to take on the cause and argue to the powers. You have made a judgement call. I hope you never have an issue with it.
 
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