Pellet stove leaks smoke...pipe installation right?

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Can you explain why its impossible to go straight up from the T 4 vertical feet then 90 out? Lets see the whole room...
 
hyfire said:
Can you explain why its impossible to go straight up from the T 4 vertical feet then 90 out? Lets see the whole room...
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hole is already in the wall, look at her second set of pic's hard to see unless you click on them but its already an up and out , just aint much "up" before the out
 
We use 4" normally where I live because it is generally suggested at our altitude. Simpson can be a leaker. In the past we used to tape the joints and seams. Now I find it easier to just use black high temp silicone on all the seams and joints. I also do a small bead on the inside of the female end of all the connections before assembly. The cap is how simpson designs them now, I haven't had a problem with them causing back pressure issues in a properly sealed and vented installation. I'd replace the section that has a joint within the wall for sure and make it so the cap extends 12" or even a little more from the siding on the house. This should eliminate sooting outside. As said earlier, use silicone to seal the wall thimble where the pipe passes through, I also do this on the inside with black high temp for a cleaner look.

If this doesn't fix it I'd start looking at the area where the combustion blower is located and see if there is a failing gasket/seal in that area.

I wish you luck!
 
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There are plenty of online places to order some 4" vent piping. Lowes or HD usually only carry the 3".
If you are going to attempt this yourself, you should take the time to photograph as it sits so you have a point of reference incase you completely disassemble the piping.
At the very minimum you should swap out the piping that goes through the wall so there is no joint inside the wall. These pipes are supposed to be pushed together and given a 1/4 turn to lock the connections together. I bought the metal foil tape at my Lowes store and sealed every connection. I would def add atleast 3 ft of verticle rise on the outside of your house. Don't forget a chimney bracket to attach the pipe to the side of the house.
 
Most foil tapes are only good for 160F the 3m foil is good for 600F, I know the surface of my pellet pipe is near 150f, so not sure long term how the cheaper foil will stand up. Check for fly ash near the exhaust blower with a flashlight as rocky is suggesting. or take some pics for us...
 
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RockyMtnHigh said:
The cap is how simpson designs them now, I haven't had a problem with them causing back pressure issues in a properly sealed and vented installation. I'd replace the section that has a joint within the wall for sure and make it so the cap extends 12" or even a little more from the siding on the house.
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That sounds like an easier solution, the problem is I am supposed to have @ least 3' vertical rise for draft purposes, and I don't ... I have more like 6".
Also what do you all think of using the pipe section that currently terminates my run to terminate my new vertical run bc I was looking online, and it looks like duravent doesn't use that type anyone, now they use a chimney cap type thing.
 
Merr, all i can say you better get this fixed sooner or later or winter will be knocking on your door..redo the whole thing, you can always put it on your visa:)
 
No fun trying to repair a project with snow up to ones bum and mind numbing cold making you want to take short cuts that one will have to do over.
 
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merr, you're planning on using the same brand of pipe, correct? I have the same termination on mine and I would think that as long as you're pointing it away from the house, and not straight up, it's fine.
 
The termination is only part of her problem she needs a good draft with everything sealed inside and out..If it was me I would start fresh...
 
I understand and agree. If she uses the same brand of pipe, she can use the same termination cap. I have Dura Vent on mine and like it. I have never had it leak and I remove it when I do my big cleaning then reassemble it. I don't have tape or silicone but I only have one 90 and a T. I think she's saying she doesn't want to buy something she already has.
 
If you were closer would take a look to see if I could give you some ideas. I am on the coast and not sure where you really are except western maine.
 
No time this weekend or til Friday to fix stuff, working 8-8 the whole week :( And yes I would gladly fix anyone dinner that fix this pos. Interestingly, we turned it on last night bc it was really cold...and tonight is supposed to be 15 out, so we will turn on again I am sure...Anyway, no smoke smell. No clue what's different.
 
The greater the temperature difference in the flue gases, from the outside air the higher the draft potential, but the difference would be really minimal with your flue length that you have. The higher the flue the effect is magnified.
 
I was wondering the same thing. Merr?
 
Ashful said:
As far as flue diameter, your stove manual will usually list a preferred and max size, such as:

flue: 3" (4" maximum)

If installing a new flue, I would choose the preferred size, unless that size is going to preclude a possible future replacement of this stove with another.
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My local expert says even if you can use 3", install 4". Reasoning: Soot builds up in the flue and can reduce a 3" pipe to 2-1/2 inches or less. A 4" pipe with the same buildup would still be over 3". It's not that much more money. It's also easier to clean if you have elbows to get around.
 
If you have any issues with soot you have got a stove problem. Most of the more modern stoves can go an entire season with no issues and then its usually fly ash. Only soot I have seen is in stoves that are not run for long and run cold.
 
merr said:
Hi all I am stuck right now in a position where I am not sure if I need to replace all the venting, or if I could use some of the existing material and maybe just get a new pipe to go from inside to outside that extends beyond the exterior wall, ant a new vertical rise pipe section. (And of course seal it off well ) I am not an expert on this stuff by any means. I tried to get advice from local installers today but that was a no go. It's just that the vent pipes are pretty expensive, so I only want to have to fix this once. My husband thinks that we might need to actually center stove on hearth pad an change where it is going through the wall, because there is not even proper clearance from the interior wall to the stove. However, that seems like it would then require changes in where the pipe goes through the wall, which won't really work. Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on whether I can use some of what is already in place, let me know. Also, is home cheapo the place to buy materials, or is there somewhere better? Or should I hire someone to fix this for me( which I'd rather not, but if I have to because I don't really know what I am doing I will) . And by the way...I am a she ==c . And if it helps at all here are a few more pics.
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One thing I noticed is that I can't see any silicone where the vent pipe adapter fits onto the stove. That's the one place where you have to seal with silicone.
Home Depot may be cheaper, but you won't get very good advice there. A hearth specialty store may be a bit more expensive, but they know what they are talking about. It's your safety you are talking about.
If you are getting headaches, don't run the stove until it's fixed, and have a CO alarm.
 
Your responding to a 2 year old thread. The OP had a very short exhaust and a joint inside of the wall-thimble and that is a very big install mistake as one cannot then see a leaking joint.
 
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