Im about to freeze, a challenging question
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The lopi stove looks good but Im guessing it not the efficient style?
The pipe is 3 ' above the highest roof point. Ran the stove last nite again. It heated well but every time I opened. The door, even when it was raging, smoke poured out. I'm trying to decipher all the good info here.
The pipe is 3 ' above the highest roof point. Ran the stove last nite again. It heated well but every time I opened. The door, even when it was raging, smoke poured out. I'm trying to decipher all the good info here.
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
The older Lopi's are not as efficient as the newer ones, with it being a cabin I would be looking for a steel stove that could put some heat out, you mentioned in your first post that efficiency is not a requirement.
Tedinski
Member
Heya wmhgs! I heated with a wood stove for the past 10years, and just got my first pellet stove.
I had problems just like you describe. Lots of smoke pouring back into the house, no matter what I did or how hot the fire was.
I added 3 feet to my chimney (it's all insulated pipe) and all my problems simply disappeared! 13 feet is not a very tall flue, and might not be long enough to make a decent draft.
Distance above the roof is important for code, but it doesn't mean the flue is actually long enough for that draft.
Hope this helps!
akbear
Burning Hunk
a few things you can try (and first off, while the propane stove is taken apart, you should have that flue blocked if it is not already). Before opening the door to the stove, open the damper (if you have one) fully, and you might also want to open the air intake draughts. Wait a bit then just open the door a crack, hold it there for several seconds, then slowly open it more. If you open it fast you can create a vacuum that pulls the smoke towards the door and then it finds the easiest way out of the stove. If this still does not help enough, before opening up the door to the stove, open a window somewhat first or next try the door to the cabin as that will allow air in at the lowest possible point.
And I certainly agree with the last post about chimney height, just because it's beyond the roof it doesn't mean it's always tall enough to draught properly (especially if there are nearby trees or other things that can cause a downdraught) and having two chimneys does complicate things a bit. Two things to take into consideration beyond terrain and vegetation is that bends, Tees and horizontal runs shorten the effective height (some of those can make a loss as much as 1-3 ft of effective height each) as well as elevation (for every 250 feet above sea level, you need to increase your chimney by 1% of the minimum required height, so for example if the minimum chimney for a stove was 13 ft and the location was at 1,750ft, you'd multiply by 7% and your minimum chimney requirements would have increased by nearly a foot)
And of course this is all beyond the obvious, of having a clean chimney, an unclogged spark arrestor if present or a chimney cap that isn't adding a restriction (there are special caps that can aid draught, especially if one is in a windy area)
And I certainly agree with the last post about chimney height, just because it's beyond the roof it doesn't mean it's always tall enough to draught properly (especially if there are nearby trees or other things that can cause a downdraught) and having two chimneys does complicate things a bit. Two things to take into consideration beyond terrain and vegetation is that bends, Tees and horizontal runs shorten the effective height (some of those can make a loss as much as 1-3 ft of effective height each) as well as elevation (for every 250 feet above sea level, you need to increase your chimney by 1% of the minimum required height, so for example if the minimum chimney for a stove was 13 ft and the location was at 1,750ft, you'd multiply by 7% and your minimum chimney requirements would have increased by nearly a foot)
And of course this is all beyond the obvious, of having a clean chimney, an unclogged spark arrestor if present or a chimney cap that isn't adding a restriction (there are special caps that can aid draught, especially if one is in a windy area)
bag of hammers
Minister of Fire
My original cabin (now being converted to kitchen space) was 20 x 20 with open loft - much like your space. A small Drolet "Little Sawman" smoke dragon would cook us out of there even in the deep of winter with a bit of insulation. Good to go for the night (yes it would cool off but no beers frozen to the floor by morning, which has happened in other cabins back in the day).
My 2c fwiw, throw a couple $$ at a bit of insulation - even something as easy as a couple cans of spray foam (I like DAP 'cause I'm a klutz and it's not as hard to clean up as polyurethane foam), some caulking, etc. - try to eliminate some of the big drafts. Probably won't seal it tight (not sure you want to - see pen's post) but might help.
My 2c fwiw, throw a couple $$ at a bit of insulation - even something as easy as a couple cans of spray foam (I like DAP 'cause I'm a klutz and it's not as hard to clean up as polyurethane foam), some caulking, etc. - try to eliminate some of the big drafts. Probably won't seal it tight (not sure you want to - see pen's post) but might help.
Sealing windows is usually a relatively easy task. Caulking is wonderful and comes in many varieties to solve a host of issues.
I really appreciate everyones time here. I m going to experiment again tonight & post more info, I think we are getting close. The stove I have is 24 x 20" maybe its too big but I'd rather be hot than up feeding the stove with a new one. The guy with the lopi said he gets all night burns but I didn't ask if it was steel yet. The cabin is at 2600 ft above sea level & sits in a valley, woods on the left side & a 10' drop to a100' field & small river on the right then a mountain across the river the front & back are open lawn. If I add pipe it would sit 3' plus above the roof, is that ok? From earlier, yes the thimble is home made sheet metal & the studs don't allow it to be wider. Ill get a new one with new pipe but its not been an issue in 35 yrs
RockyMtnHigh
Feeling the Heat
Looks like a decent Lopi. A wire wheel, some paint and probably door gaskets and you will probably have a solid unit. It may or may not be EPA but just the fact that it's an airtight stove can go a long way. Also with insulated pipe (assuming the chimney is still made in case you need more) that is a screaming deal. We will all be here to help you along the way 
akbear
Burning Hunk
that elevation alone would add just a touch more than a foot and four inches to the stack if the minimum needs for the stove were a 13 foot stack, add to it compensation for two 90 degree bends and it's certainly not out of the question to add at least 3 ft to the stack. As for height above the roofline, the only real issue is having support bracing for each and every additional 5 ft.
The combination of being in a valley, having tall trees nearby, and mountains near are all conditions that can cause or amplify winds and downdraughts, so a windproof or draught inducing cap would be a very good addition
The combination of being in a valley, having tall trees nearby, and mountains near are all conditions that can cause or amplify winds and downdraughts, so a windproof or draught inducing cap would be a very good addition
I now have 5' above the roof, there seems to be more air moving around in the fire box but it still comes out the front 3-5 seconds after I slowly open the door. The draftiness is not a caulking issue but probably the rustic door & the basement style windows with the latch at the bottom that pulls towards u. The stove Burns great but the smoke pouring out isn't tolerable. Sometimes the current stove is efficient & sometims not. Theis trip its flying thru wood, even locust. So its a lot of $ for pipe, the EPA vogulzang Durango (yea its made in China but no competetor for the price) or the lopi. I'm a contractor & no one wants made in China if they don't have to but oh well. Or the non-epa lopi, any opinions?
I had a six inch going into a seven inch in my basement and the draft was like a freight train.Six into 8 inch might work.Will you kindly put plastic over the windows.You can always take it down if it doesn't help.
Haha! Yes. I realized my kerosene stove has an inline air intake on it, I covered it but the difference wasn't noticeable. So I'm taking the suggestions & after all the good info my status is, the current stove burns good but no matter what smoke pours out the front. I'm buying new pipe & buying the used lopi suggested or a EPA app. On the cheaper side. I need to ask a few questions about the kerosene stove as I would like to have it as a secondary if needed. Then pray it all works bc. I cannot tolerate the smoke & can't go to our own place
I'm sure the windows/ door/ draft have more to do with it than I can figure so I'm just going to throw $ at it & that will fix it! (kidding) . I am going to try another stove though. I narrowed it down to the lopi discussed above if I can still get it or Fisher mama bear, baby bear, vogulzang Durango EPA certified or; I talked to a guy with an englander that has a catalytic converter in it & a glass door, the vent is controlled with a slide not a dial. Can someone tell me their opinion on a good choice here? I don't know if the englander is EPA or not he said it was medium sized
So, I bought the lopi that was recommended on here & half the pipe I need, as with most Craigslisters the guy wasnt all that honest, including about the damper working. The knob isn't actuting the sheet metal "board". The stove is on its side so I can see it. I can fix it if I can determine whats what. There's a narrow slot underneath the stove where it is. Anyone else familiar with this? The knob only moves a tenth of a turn at present
.....actuating.
I should include the stove is circa 1982. The knob is on the front below the door & above the blower knob. I can't see a way to disassemble it as the slit underneath the stove is only 1" x about 10? Thanks in advance for any feedback
I should include the stove is circa 1982. The knob is on the front below the door & above the blower knob. I can't see a way to disassemble it as the slit underneath the stove is only 1" x about 10? Thanks in advance for any feedback
Frank625
Burning Hunk
I have one of these Suburban Woodchiefs. If you find one in descent condition you can get a 10-12 hr burn easily and they put out a lot of heat due to the natural convetion the cabinet creates. Combined with an ash pan and thermostatic control, it is very easy to use. I got mine for $100 and went over it, cleaned it and repainted it. Here is one I seen on CL, I see them all the time for not much money and they work great.
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/gms/4178087054.html
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/gms/4178087054.html
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I guess I've gotten boring on here but have new info. The damper will move if the knob is pushed in but the knobs half moon is stripped. The lopi is a mh (mobile home) -440, I can only find a manual for a m-440 which doesn't have a damper knob. I don't know if I need a hole in the floor for draft or not. At floor level the backside is open an inch higher maybe to draair off the floor? Is anyone familiar with this?
Attachments
...sorry, the pedestal is open in the back an inch high from the floor, maybe to draw air without having to drill a hole in the floor which could change the pressure in the building
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
Page 9 on this manual talks about how to do the outside air intake install: http://www.lopistoves.com/TravisDocs/93508006.pdf
That guide covers the mobile home rated stove as well.
That guide covers the mobile home rated stove as well.
I see, thank you very much. My stove has a knob above the fan motor knob that open & closes a sheet metal damper & a slit the length of the pedestal along the back. I wonder if that means I don't need the hole? I'm going to drill one anyway to maximize good draught. When trying to heat, cutting a hole in the floor just seems unnatural, ha!
At last im able to give back to the site. I spoke with lopi today they were nice enough to search their archives. If you have an early 80's lopi the only maual close to my model still around is for the m-440. I have a m"h"-440 which was made for mobie homes. This is good b/c the stove exterior is insulated for shorter clearances. Also I have a damper knob which makes it the mh-440 "t". Apparently u don't need a hole in the floor if u don't stuff insulation in the back at floor level as suggested in the manual. I plan to put mine on bricks to allow more airflow. If im sill having trouble I will do the hole. It seems like a great stove, hope this info can help someone sometime.
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