cut dampener or run oval?
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mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
jeffesonm
Minister of Fire
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
You can cut the damper frame with a Sawzall. Rigid is preferable if you have a straight shot up the chimney, and is cheaper than flex, but your dealer may have already determined what you need. I'm not familiar with a "Lifetime" brand....maybe he was talking about the warrranty? Warranty on some brands only applies if the chimney is professionally installed.
Paul L
Member
Heatsource
Minister of Fire
Before I installed my liner, was talking to an installer who knew my fireplace/house (from installs in the neighborhood) and was talking about removing the damper and having to cut the frame, too. I was able to install it with just cutting out the damper and leaving the frame, the liner just fits through (without any ovalizing). But now I realize it would have been better to cut the frame too, would have made the install a lot easier.
Lumberjack
Member
I vote cut it. Don't be shy either....I had to cut mine a few times as I didn't want to remove more than necessary. Looking back on it I should have taken out more than needed as it will never be used as a fireplace again....without a total flue rebuild.
Also it is a good point that round is easier to clean.
Good luck!
Also it is a good point that round is easier to clean.
Good luck!
That was probably a big part of my concern at the time -- being able to get it back to a regular fireplace easily, if someone ever wanted to do that. But what I realize is that the original damper would never be replaced, rather a better sealing top-of-the-flue damper could be installed without any modification needed to the damper and frame down below above the firebox.
Was thinking maybe an angle grinder would cut alittle more edficiently? Correct me if I'm wrong never done this. But take a look at pics seems pretty straightforward to cut two 1/2 square notches out of each part of the damper frame to allow the flex 6" to
pass? Also can you guys tell from the pics if It looks like the new insert will sit out far like my current or would the osburn 2400 need pushed back further? And noticed my current inserts front glass is only about 8" from my raised hearth hope no issue with that. Wish my insert was out for better inspection but it is currently heating my house, i am also not sure if bricks will need to be removed to accept the flex liner or just trimming that damper frame/support is enough? I am probably over analyzing all of this but im trying to get squared away before investing all of this time/money
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Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
[quote="tjcole50, post: 1558708, member: 28806"It looks like the new insert will sit out far like my current or would the osburn 2400 need pushed back further? And noticed my current inserts front glass is only about 8" from my raised hearth hope no issue with that.[/quote]They probably have the schematics in the manual that tell how far back the flue outlet is on the Osburn. The clearances should be in there as well.
cygnus
Feeling the Heat
I ovalized the last few feet by hand to get through the frame. No cutting and the fireplace can be restored to its original condition for the next guy...though I can't imagine why he'd want too.
cygnus
Feeling the Heat
It was a flex liner and I ovalized it as needed for the install first. Then, wrapped if in blanket insulation and dropped the whole thing down the chimney. No problem, no cutting.
I have watched numerous install vids where a blanket type insulation was used and taped to hold together. My regency retailer close by said they use a sleeve that slides down the whole thing? I would think they sleeve would be much less time consuming is this something new or is the blanket type the best?
Both steps are used. Tape to hold the insulation blanket in place so that you can sleeve it easily with the mesh.
cygnus
Feeling the Heat
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
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