AF Integra: Air Wash & Gaskets

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RKBAGUY

Feeling the Heat
Sep 29, 2013
291
Milford, PA
Can someone with an AF Integra bring me up to speed on whether or not to fully gasket the glass across the bottom middle of the glass panel? It's obvious that the top sections are not gasketed to allow air to flow between the frame and glass for the 'air wash' action, but the bottom is where I'm confused.

There's a metal plate with a lip at the bottom (in front of the burn pot) which seems to allow air to flow in at the center bottom section and flow up and across over the burn pot, but that could just be because the previous owner didn't install it right.

So, do you gasket all the way across the bottom to completely seal it up, or should that middle 'lip' be open to allow airflow the way the same way the tops are open?

Thanks in advance!
 
Put gasket around all the sides and the bottom, but not at the top.
The way I have dealt with the metal "diverter" is place the gasket on the door and place the smaller edge of the diverter on the gasket, then place the window in the middle of the "V" of the diverter.
When you tighten the glass down that diverter should should fold up, not a lot but you will notice it doing so.
Be careful not to overtighten the screw/bolts in the brass runners on the side(s) of glass.
In the end you will have a noticeable gap at the top about a 1/8-1/4.
It is a lot easier to do this with door off and lying flat.
It is also best to use flat 1/4 inch gasket and not the rope type although it probably would work
 
Put gasket around all the sides and the bottom, but not at the top.
The way I have dealt with the metal "diverter" is place the gasket on the door and place the smaller edge of the diverter on the gasket, then place the window in the middle of the "V" of the diverter.
When you tighten the glass down that diverter should should fold up, not a lot but you will notice it doing so.
Be careful not to overtighten the screw/bolts in the brass runners on the side(s) of glass.
In the end you will have a noticeable gap at the top about a 1/8-1/4.
It is a lot easier to do this with door off and lying flat.
It is also best to use flat 1/4 inch gasket and not the rope type although it probably would work
Mark, the more I look at the configuration of the center panel, the more I think that it was intended to have a gap at the bottom middle. Are you sure about completely sealing the whole thing all the way across? How does it come from the factory? I have no idea because my stove is pre-owned and 22 years old, so I have no idea what's normal.
 
I have done it this way for the past few years. It was the way it came from the dealer I bought it from, although that does not mean it is correct.
The manual only mentions gaps at the top.
 
I looked at your other post and you had a link to an Integra freestanding cleaning there is a pic of the door that has been cleaned. Magnify that pic as close as you can get and you will see what I mean about the gasket and diverter.
 
I have been talking to Jason Munson at Pellet Stove Pro about this recently. Mark-ms is right. No gasket on the top of the glass inside.
 
I have been talking to Jason Munson at Pellet Stove Pro about this recently. Mark-ms is right. No gasket on the top of the glass inside.
The question was never about the top. The question was about the bottom middle, where the angled metal plate fits into the frame.
 
Now that I've had a chance to pause for a cleaning and take a few photos, I figured it would be good to revisit this.

As you can see, when the bottom 'bracket' is properly positioned on the glass, there is a slot of about 1/8" by 3" long along the 'ramp' on the metal plate which allows airflow into the stove on interior side, even if there is gasket material on the exterior side between the bracket and the door frame. It would seem to me that the stove was designed this way as a "secondary air wash", but I'm wondering if I've installed it correctly, if there's a missing part, or if that area should be sealed.

I've already asked Jason Munson this question via ebay, but it never hurts to have second opinions.

Looking forward to your thoughts.

DSCN4621.JPG


DSCN4624.JPG
 
The manual says the door should have a gasket all around except at the top.
Your pics need to be adjusted (smaller) so we can see what you are trying to say.
 
The manual says the door should have a gasket all around except at the top.
Your pics need to be adjusted (smaller) so we can see what you are trying to say.
To reiterate for the second time, the question I have does NOT relate to the DOOR. Please read the question again.
 
The manual says the door window should have a gasket all around except at the top.
Having an additional gap for air would more than likely affect the way your stove burns although I do not know what the technical jargon would be.
If you could repost your pics using a smaller pixel count would be more helpful for others to chime in.

Flamman where are you??
 
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Here are pics of the "diverter" from the inside of my stove. The smaller end I put flush against thne interior portion of window frame then placed the gasket over that and then placed the glass over the gasket.
If I am looking at your pic correctly you have the smaller portion of the "diverter" on the outside??

Diverter.jpg diverter2.jpg
 
Mark, it looks from your photos as though you install your plate differently than I do. It looks like your plate is at at 90-degrees to the vertical face of the door, rather than angled up at 45-degrees as I have on mine. I guess I'll have to experiment next emptying.
 
My pics don't show that it is angled upward it is close to 45.
Here are 2 more pics from pelletstove corner. here and here that show pretty much what I have
 
My pics don't show that it is angled upward it is close to 45.
Here are 2 more pics from pelletstove corner. here and here that show pretty much what I have

Ah, that helps a lot. That's exactly what I have, and I was worried that I had an abnormal amount of ash and creosote on my glass, but judging from your photos, we're in the same boat. Thanks!
 
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