Yup, need to know the stove before proceeding. Different stoves have different alcove requirements.
Out goes the Heatilator. In goes
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aansorge
Minister of Fire
It does have a recommended flue size of 6 vs. your 8. I don't know if this is a big deal (I think going the other way is the problem, 8 to 6).
Wear a good dust mask.
The Osburn 2300 manual is not their best effort, I find their reduced clearances graphics confusing and lacking important dimensions. It quotes the reductions for a non-UL stove, but seems to imply that is is ok for the 2300. I would call Osburn for clarification.For an alcove installation it is very important to be sure that all clearances are met of exceeded.
Note however that it does say: Floor to ceiling height must be at least 7' (84") in all cases.
The Osburn 2300 manual is not their best effort, I find their reduced clearances graphics confusing and lacking important dimensions. It quotes the reductions for a non-UL stove, but seems to imply that is is ok for the 2300. I would call Osburn for clarification.For an alcove installation it is very important to be sure that all clearances are met of exceeded.
Note however that it does say: Floor to ceiling height must be at least 7' (84") in all cases.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Some ideas: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/pictures-of-wood-stoves-in-alcoves.105795/#post-1383236
Do pay attention to Machria's photos, maybe even look up his recent thread on the construction / install (just last year), as he really set the bar on alcoves in tall rooms (even though his install is not technically an 'alcove').
Do pay attention to Machria's photos, maybe even look up his recent thread on the construction / install (just last year), as he really set the bar on alcoves in tall rooms (even though his install is not technically an 'alcove').
Have you called Osburn to establish the minimum ceiling height requirement for the 2300 in an alcove? Normally this is 84" (7').
RockyMtnHigh
Feeling the Heat
I'm so proud of you for ripping that piece of Heatilator out! I've seen so many people do awful butcher jobs trying to fit an insert into one of those.... I know I'm kind of a dork but I'd do a massive alcove if I were working with a ceiling that tall, and a brick arch at the top.... I'm drooling, I'll stop now.
Thanks for the kind words. I have over 7' to top of radius. I want to put in my OAK now. Any suggestions?
aansorge
Minister of Fire
aansorge
Minister of Fire
Ok going to town tomorrow to get the stove and pipe. Should I insulate the entire chase ? How many supports within the chase for 16' of pipe? Would there be a problem going through the floor for the OAK? Thanks oh wise ones ! )
RockyMtnHigh
Feeling the Heat
We usually avoid OAK unless they are truly needed. We have our reasons but it is mostly due to altitude here. I've seen aluminum flex melt here in an OAK due to a fire getting low and pressure issues happening, even Mark at Jotul said not to use one unless absolutely needed. That aside. Your support box will hold the entire chimney system as long as you support it on 4 sides, even if it was 30' tall. The bigger deal with that is making sure you have a firestop at the suggested levels according to the manufacturer of your Class A system. Also, it is good to do what your chimney manufacturer system says but relying on the installation instructions that come with your particular stove is important as well. Doing the safer bet between the two within specs or better is preferred.
aansorge
Minister of Fire
RockyMtnHigh
Feeling the Heat
RockyMtnHigh
Feeling the Heat
Class A chimney is heavy, you're lucky you aren't using 7" Security pipe for a Montecito Estate. That said yes, get another hand. I would also extend that chimney a minimum of 2' above the chase although I'm pretty sure 3' is code for almost any class A chimney. Keep going, you are doing a great job.
Thanks Rocky. I appreciate the kind words. I hope the weather holds out. I probably won't get much work done now til next wknd.
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