Pacific Energy Vista Woodstove: Baffle Pin and First Break-in Fire Questions

Chamel said:

Finally got my Pacific Energy Vista wood stove and chimney installed! I just have a few random questions about the baffle pin, and break in fires that I hope someone can answer...

As I was installing the door on the stove with a rubber mallet, a hooked shaped pin fell out from inside the stove. I looks like it was the baffle pin, but I'm not sure. I can't figure out where else it would go. If it is the baffle pin, is it supposed to fit loosely?

Second, where should I place a Condar thermometer on this type of stove. Does anyone know what is the maximum temperature for this stove? The manual doesn't really say. I want make sure not to over fire it.

Also I understand I should have three break in fires (small, medium ,large) But how long should each fire be? Do you just build each fire and let them go out or should you sustain them for a certain amount of time?

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks!

Pacific Energy Manual

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Great stoves Im sure you will enjoy it. I will give you my 2 cents but Im sure others will be along soon as well. 1) Sounds like the baffle pin to me. Stick it back in there and wiggle it around until it slides in, it shouldn't fall out. I don't know about loosely but mine has never fallen out in fact when I remove mine Ive had a hard time grabbing it with my chubby fingers so Ive used pliers to pull it out with ease. One thing to keep in mind is that when you remove the baffle to do a clean make sure you fill the air chamber in the back with a rag and also purchase some new baffle gaskets to go on top where the baffle and tube meet. My wife picked me up three in the fall for cheap.2) Not sure on the thermometer but I like using an IR. Im sure there is a recommended max temperature somewhere but ive never found it. If measuring by the collar it can easily get to 700f so keep an eye out on closing your air down and don't wander off for to long with a full load on a bed of coals and wide open! (Im at 680F at the moment measured at the collar). Mine has been just over 800f (that sure got my attention!! I strive to keep it to 600f-700f and the secondaries seem to do well at those temps. These stoves can get hot! 3) Each fire should be bigger than the previous one and then should go out to the point where you can rest your hand on the stove top without discomfort before starting the next one. Hope this helps!

Chamel said:

Finally got my Pacific Energy Vista wood stove and chimney installed! I just have a few random questions about the baffle pin, and break in fires that I hope someone can answer...

As I was installing the door on the stove with a rubber mallet, a hooked shaped pin fell out from inside the stove. I looks like it was the baffle pin, but I'm not sure. I can't figure out where else it would go. If it is the baffle pin, is it supposed to fit loosely?

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You don't screw it in but it should not really come out by itself unless it was not put in correctly to begin with. Do you see two holes at the end of the baffle under the center which match up? If there is no pin in it insert the one you have.

Second, where should I place a Condar thermometer on this type of stove. Does anyone know what is the maximum temperature for this stove? The manual doesn't really say. I want make sure not to over fire it.

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Try putting it at the center close to the flue collar. Optimal is 500 to 600 F, above 750 F I would get worried.

Also I understand I should have three break in fires (small, medium ,large) But how long should each fire be? Do you just build each fire and let them go out or should you sustain them for a certain amount of time?

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The paint cures rather fast once a higher temp has been reached. Thus, no need to sustain the fire.

Yep Burn it now so ya can open the windows, My P/E wasn't bad the selkirk d/w pipe was nasty a good week or more. Jay

My baffle pin got tossed with the ash a while back, dont have one now, I guess I should stick something in there, I never load wood up against the baffle so should be ok untin the wife knocks it off the rails.

Behind that little metal protrusion with the hole there is another hole in the firebox, right? Those two holes line up and then you can insert the pin kind of loosely? I just want to make sure you put the baffle in correctly. If I would not have loaded my Super already I would have made some pictures.

The pin may have just come loose in shipping. Once you replace it, it won't come out again. You may have to carefully align the baffle so the holes line up. That can be tricky, so have patience. If the baffle has not been disturbed off the air inlet, though, you're set.

My Super 27 doesn't have that second hole, either; I don't know what that would be.

No idea on the second hole.

Just cleaned the PE's chimney Saturday, and took the baffle down.

The pin can be tricky, but once everything is aligned, it fits right in.

Don't forget to check your boost baffle!!

No second hole here.

Chamel said:

Second, where should I place a Condar thermometer on this type of stove. Does anyone know what is the maximum temperature for this stove? The manual doesn't really say. I want make sure not to over fire it.

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Freestanding stove, right? Stovetop temperatures can vary widely on the stove top. You may want to find the hottest point on the top by moving it around and then keep it there. You also could buy an infrared thermometer and find it that way. They're pretty cheap and good for other stuff anyway.

You may also want to get a flue thermometer from Condar. A probe type if double wall or magnetic type for single wall pipe.

PE doesn't seem to like to give you an overtemp number. You will get a lot of different opinions about it. Personally, I like to keep my temps under 650. 700 makes me uncomfortable. Others are more daring Englander tells you not to let it glow in the dark for their models. I would definitely share that advice!

Chamel said:

Also I understand I should have three break in fires (small, medium ,large) But how long should each fire be? Do you just build each fire and let them go out or should you sustain them for a certain amount of time?

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It's not an exact science. The object is to get the moisture out of the new fire brick and to cure the paint on the stove. Two short, moderate fires should do the brick part. The first fire may seem lame because of the moisture. The paint needs about 500F or more to cure. That will give off some unpleasant fumes, so do it when you can ventilate the house and maybe get pets in a room. A few of those kinds of fires will be enough and the smell will go away.

My new Summit has a second hole too. And the tab was moved since the last design. Maybe the rear channel was mass produced and pre drilled, and the baffle tab location differs between models, so 2 universal holes one being used on either side depending on the model and baffle. Pin just rests in the tab hole through the hole behind it.

wait, i have a question, i have a PE Super insert and there is no pin in the baffle? is there supposed to be one, did they forget to give me one? will it hurt it without it?

BurningBrutus said:

wait, i have a question, i have a PE Super insert and there is no pin in the baffle? is there supposed to be one, did they forget to give me one? will it hurt it without it?

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I believe it should. it's what keeps the baffle aligned and in place. If the holes are aligned and the baffle is still seated over the air intake in back, then it should work okay, but the pin should really be there. If the baffle gets hit, it could get knocked out of place and if it gets out of place of the air intake that it sits over on the back ledge, then you would lose the secondary air.

Sift through your ashes. Maybe it's in there somewhere.

I'm beginning to wonder how many other PE's there may be out there with missing pins that aren't noticed.

Sprinter said:

I believe it should. it's what keeps the baffle aligned and in place. If the holes are aligned and the baffle is still seated over the air intake in back, then it should work okay, but the pin should really be there. If the baffle gets hit, it could get knocked out of place and if it gets out of place of the air intake that it sits over on the back ledge, then you would lose the secondary air.

Sift through your ashes. Maybe it's in there somewhere.

I'm beginning to wonder how many other PE's there may be out there with missing pins that aren't noticed.

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I never got it, i remember when they were installing it and they put they baffle in they specifically commented on the fact that there is no pin and they said to each other "They must not be using the pins anymore" me being new to this and not on this site yet i didnt know any better. The hole is lined up and i can see where the pin goes, i assume its pretty much lined up. I guess i will start by calling the place i bought it from tomorrow and see what they say to give me a new one. If they dont i will have to call the company direct.

BurningBrutus said:

I never got it, i remember when they were installing it and they put they baffle in they specifically commented on the fact that there is no pin and they said to each other "They must not be using the pins anymore" me being new to this and not on this site yet i didnt know any better. The hole is lined up and i can see where the pin goes, i assume its pretty much lined up. I guess i will start by calling the place i bought it from tomorrow and see what they say to give me a new one. If they dont i will have to call the company direct.

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Good. You're okay for now. Just get a new one. The dealer will do it no problem.

Get the pin, ain't no fun having the baffle fall slide off one side with a full blaze going.
Worst case, thread a s.s. bolt in there. Put neverseize on the threads.

Hogwildz said:

Get the pin, ain't no fun having the baffle fall slide off one side with a full blaze going.
Worst case, thread a s.s. bolt in there. Put neverseize on the threads.

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Yeah, I'm a little worried about oldspark. All it takes is one jolt. That thing is really unstable if not secured.

BTW, Hogz, I made one of your baffle gaskets out of gasket rope. Works good. Mine was dust.

My gasket lasted a good few years. Not sure about the new styles, will make one if I can if the new ones are junk

Sprinter said:

Yeah, I'm a little worried about oldspark. All it takes is one jolt. That thing is really unstable if not secured.

BTW, Hogz, I made one of your baffle gaskets out of gasket rope. Works good. Mine was dust.

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Well it would take a pretty good hit but I just told the wife last week I should make a pin for it, has not been in there for over a year with no problems, I will make a pin when I get home from the work trip that has already started out bad (stuck in Detroit now "the home of rock and roll")
Thanks for your concern.

"I'm beginning to wonder how many other PE's there may be out there with missing pins that aren't noticed"
I have seen it mentioned a few times now, it sets on a lip so not easy to get it of the lip but I sure it could happen.
A poor design, did not like the way it went in there from the begining.

Chamel said:

Here's the another question. Once you get your fire nice and hot how do you know where to put the air control? I know that you keep it on high(open) only for starting the fire and preheating fresh fuel loads. But is there a sweet spot I'm looking for after that? Will the flames look a certain way?

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You start closing it stepwise. If it is a cold start, I wait maybe 10 to 15 minutes before closing it for about 25% until the flames become kind of "lazy". Wait a few more minutes until they are vigorous again, then close it again another ~25% and so on until the air is almost closed. Somewhere in between you should notice the secondaries kicking in, especially the ones coming out from the front of the baffle. (You may need to get down to see those.) After a cold start I usually leave it a bit open to get the stove and flue warmed up faster. After a reload on hot coals the steps are shorter and I usually have it fully closed about 15 to 20 minutes later. The stove top should be between 500 F and 700 F when you have reached the final air setting and stay there. That's the place where you have a clean burn and plenty of heat without overfiring the stove. I would avoid getting above 800 F.